I don’t want to come off desperate, but I’m mentally tired and I really don’t know where else to turn. I know I need to get the car tuned, but I need it drivable to get it there or at least drivable to get it on the trailer. I would rather drive it though. The car idol’s like crap and rev’s just the same. I just put the freshly rebuilt motor in and I have yet to drive it. I’m still working on the idol issues. I think I have read every post about every problem I have and every manual for the power FC and my mind is pretty much shut down. It can’t be this hard. My friend who is helping me has a slightly higher than basic understanding of tuning. Our AFR’s are on target (holding 14.7) but it still idols and rev’s like crap. My friend thinks it has something to do with the injector lag time. I have also enclosed a copy of the map we are currently working off of. If anyone could provide assistance I would be greatly and forever in your debt.

New street ported 13B
Garrett T04Z
Siemens 550cc injectors (P)
Bosch 1680cc injectors (S)
Power FC w/ datalogit
2x 255 walbro fuel pumps
CJ Motorsports fuel rail system

 

I've had similar symptoms in the past after I installed my motor. Turned out to be ignition related. I had reversed the low voltage harness leads to the trailing (#1) and trailing (#2) coils. Easy to check.

Good luck,

Guy

 

start by setting the rear PRIMARY injector to 100% not 50%. don't know why they let you set the 2 primaries different and there is no correction for the secondary other than setting the flow.. but it is what it is..

After you do that you can adjust the inj map back to 1 and go from there....

 

Thank you, I will double check the connection.

 

Thanks, I thought that setting was for the secondary injectors.

 

yeah it is confusing at first glance... almost made the same mistake myself the other day when I swapped out my injectors... Good luck!

 

Changed up some values in my map. Car still runs like crap. Car dies and wont stay started. When it does stay on in idles like crap. my AFR's almost stay the same even when i change the number drasticly. I've checked everyting twice. Does anyone have any advice. Enclosed is my corrected map and a short log when it was runnig before it died.

 

obvious question, you do press the "write" button after you make the fuel changes right?

Also was the engine just rebuilt? or does it have some miles on it? When I rebuilt my FC it took a a little bit for the car to smooth out... I don't know how long it takes for the glue to break free on the apex seals, also depends on the condition of housings etc...

 

Also did you set the air bleed screw and run the idle learn procedue? My streetport doesn't idle very well at low rpms. I raised my idle speed to smooth it out, eventually when I get the time I will mess around with the idle, but I have been focusing more on the driveability and fine tuning my cruise AFRs...

 

Its not silly, but yes, i did hit write all.

As for the engine, it has just been rebuilt and I had new houseing installed as well.

I will try to procedue all over again. the problem im having is that the car does not want to stay running. i will give it a go tomorrow and let you know.

 

I'm no expert but check if you have the right connectors on the injectors, remember they are different for primary front and rear. Actually check all connections for that matter... I just had my water thermosensor connector come loose (broken tab) and it would idle like ****... who knows right?

Also did you use resistors for those injectors?

 

I did use resistors for all four injectors. Do you know if I have to take that into account when setting up my settings for the injectors settings and lag time.

 

Did a sensor check and my FUEL was highlighted in red at 4.98v. Is that good or bad and if its bad. How do I fix it. Also pulled the plugs because it would not start and the lead and trail were covered in fuel.

 

That's the fuel temp sensor, it shouldn't be that high.

Possibly swapped for the water temp sensor?

 

"Fuel" will read that high if you have an aftermarket fuel rail and have eliminated the fuel temp sensor. I doubt that is the source of the problem.

So what exactly are the AFR's while the engine is running? You mentioned 14.7:1.... are you really trying to get it to idle at 14.7:1 ? It won't idle that lean, if it will idle at all. Aim for 12.5:1 - 13:1

 

Did you recheck your timing? Rough start and idle can be due to timing.

 

+1 on not idling at stoich... sorry didn't catch that on the first read, was thinking that was your target during the drive..

Like Arghx said anything over 13.1:1 is pushing too lean.... at 13.5 mine will misfire slightly as you go down it smooths out (this is why they had an air pump stock...)