dougiepants

Professionals of the PFC Only… I am having an extremely weird problem with my 10th AE and my PFC. My setup is the simplist setup ever at the moment. I have a 1988 10th AE RX-7 with a rebuilt engine from Banzai Racing. The 13BT has their street port job done, all block off plates are installed, complete Banzai Racing wiring harness conversion, converted coil/igniter for FD, 3 Bar Map, FD AIT, 550 primaries/1600 secondaries, running completely NA with 4000RPM redline, and I’m having the worst problem of all time… The car will idle during cold warm up around 850RPM w/ 12%-13% duty cycle. If I apply any type of acceleration to the motor the duty cycle shoots from 12%-13% to 20%, 30%, then on past 40% duty cycle while the motor doesn’t even rev past 3000RPM. The motor will choke on all of the fuel and damn near kill itself. The motor will catch itself and continue you running back at idle. You can not free rev it at all without this problem happening and all sensors to my knowledge are testing fine for voltage. I am watching their voltage and output on the hand controller and they appear in spec. The map is supposed to be setup as a Base FD with 550P/1600S with the correct settings for the Map Sensor from Banzai Racing. I am in dire need of help. This is all that is holding the car back from driving and being able to be finally broke in. Ideas???

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You would have to download your map in DAT format and zip attach it to be checked over.

dougiepants

Well at this moment that is a problem. I only have the PFC and hand controller. I have the the DAT file that I can show from Banzai Racing... I loaded the FC Tune latest version to view the Map.

BlueTII

What do you have your fuel pressure set at?

The map is all the default settings, let me guess you told it to initialise PFC thinking that meant to start the map?

BlueTII

Also, when the key is in the on position but not running, what does the boost read on the commander?

I guess you sorted out your turbo issue?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Is it the same as yours??????

dougiepants

With no vacuum hose on the manifold I had the FPR set to 42psi. I did notice that when I started the car with the vacuum hose on the FPR it is not lowering the fuel pressure. I am thinking that it might be a vacuum leak yes? So I give the system power and suck/blow with the vacuum hose running to the MAP. I watch on the hand controller as it show negative and positive vacuum. While the motor is running though the map show 0. I would also assume vacuum leak and MAP causing the mass amount of fuel potentially.

When the car is powered on the MAP is reading 0 to -2/-3. But mostly staying on 0. Yes I finally recieved the turbo back and it was declared my original was a Lemon from Garrett. That is the offical results from Garrett's findings. This car is running a NA Racing Beat header right now to not allow boost to the motor.

Yes the map that I posted is what was started on my car.

I will admit that I have not done alot with rotaries. Yes they are different when it comes to tuning other 4 stroke engines. I have tuned several Honda and Toyota engines with great results. I have not played with this map on the PFC due to the fact that I have never tuned a rotary engine and I would like professionals in the field to tune it.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Your zipped map is corrupted and useless!

dougiepants

Hmmm how so? That is odd.


Well I have fixed the MAP problem. I was just not getting a proper vacuum supply. Now the motor runs for a bit and then just dies. The duty cycle is now around 4.5%-6% at 1000RPM. This sounds more like it. Is there a way to reset the ECU so it can relearn the engine loads again with out having to reflash the ECU? Also where is the best spot to gain the best vacuum source to hook up a vacuum block?

BlueTII

you do not have your vacuum lines connected to the proper vacuum sources. When idling the FPR gauge should be around 34-36 and the commander should read -300 to -450 depending on all your other vacuum leaks/issues.

Do not reset the PFC you will loose the ability to change the MAP sensor to the GM 3 bar as well as raising your secondaries to 1600cc.

Sounds like you pulled out a bunch of fuel at idle to get the car to run with the incorrect vacuum source, now you need to put it back in.

The best thing is to stop messing with it, load it on a car hauler and bring it to the shop before it gets really messed up.

dougiepants

Yeah I found that the vacuum source I was using was not a good one. Last night before work I was able to get the MAP sensor hooked up to the OEM Pressure Sensor vacuum nipple. The MAP was reading in the range you stated and the duty cycle was around 6% at 1000RPM. Ok I will not worry about resetting the ECU. I have not pulled out any fuel. I have not messed with any setting or #'s on the ECU at all. I just use the monitoring functions to view what the sensors are reading and try to fix these small issues. Everytime I work on it things get corrected and it makes progress. I have no problem transporting a car 4 1/2 hours to your shop, but if it is small things like vacuum leak and dumb issues like me not hooking up vacuum line up right I would just be wasting your time. I only need vacuum for the MAP, Wastegate, FPR, BOV, and Brake Booster. I will have time to look at the manifold and get that capped and ran properly this weekend I hope. Do you feel that vacuum leak is my major issue at the moment fromw my description?

BlueTII

Not only vacuum leaks, but I would hazard a guess that the TPS is out of calibration, the idle adjust screw is improperly set, the CAS is not set properly, etc all of which will effect idle and general running of the car and have nothing to due with the map on the PFC. This is sensor and hardware setup.

This is also something that has already been explained to you over the phone.

For the record I personally loaded the map onto the PFC for Doug, the one he posted up is not one that he pulled off the PFC...

dougiepants

The map that I posted is the exact same map that Chris emailed me. I do not know if this is the same map that is currently programmed onto my power fc or if he emailed that map to me by accident. If that is the map on my power fc and he is saying it is not right then that would be an obvious point to where some of my problems are coming from. I have not touched the maps or any of the tuning.

I am confused on how the TPS could be uncalibrated. It is screwed in with 2 10mill bolts and un moveable?

As for the CAS it has not been touched since the motor was picked up at Banzai and is set to their specs for start up.

There may be vacuum leaks and I am trying to get everything routed correctly. Is there a single turbo simplified vacuum diagram for the s4 turbo?

BlueTII

The map you posted up is corrupt and contains NO DATA.

The map on your PFC is correct otherwise you would be seeing -450 boost on the commander with the car off/ ignition on and the injector screen would read 550/850

The TPS is completely calibratable, get a manual and read it.

As told to you at engine pick up, the CAS was stabbed in and would be "close" but would need to be adjusted.

No.

You are obviously in over your head, do not blame me for your inability to work on your own car. As it clearly states in the PFC installation instructions

"It is recommended that you have a good general working knowledge of electrical and mechanical systems in order to complete this installation correctly. Check and double-check everything thoroughly before attempting to start the vehicle. Failure to follow instructions can result in engine damage. Our recommendation is that you have engine management system and components professionally installed."

Good luck with your project.

dougiepants

Now I guess I'll really post my thoughts. 1st) I haven't talked to you in over 12 weeks about anything to do with my car. 2nd) You said that the CAS would need to be adjusted, but should be able to start the car to allow for adjustment. 3rd) I told you that I got the MAP sensor reading correctly in two previous posts. 4th) I might be able to read the manual for the PFC if it wasn't in Kanji. 5th) I would like to say that the last time I spoke with anyone at your shop that Elaine was very helpful and you were not. Your attitude if very short tempered and your opinion is completely one sided. That fine for you, but not very convincing when people are just asking for ideas that might be causing an issue. 6th) The map I have posted in the zip file if what you sent me in an email. This is when you said to program the PFC with. I could IF I EVEN HAD ANYTHING TO DO THAT WITH!!!

Seems to me I have been nice in this thread. I have not placed blame on anyone. Your services were spot on and I have tried bringing more business to your shop from my area. I'm not asking for anyone on this site to fix my car over the internet. I was just asking for suggestions for making my car run properly. That is it as I stated in the beginning...