The Power fc running (technically ) on my fc3s is a reprogrammed first gen FD unit (Has the big removable chip, but has been reprogrammed and stamped for a fc3s). Running on a setup that's VERY far from stock ( Twin TDO5H 18G'S ). an Apexi Map sensor is being used, aswell as the standard adapter harness etc.

Even after reseting to the base map the car runs insanely rich. (Blowing Gandalf style smoke rings at idle when cold and fouling plugs like it's going out of fashion).

When installing the PFC and my Turbo setup, I've removed part of the harness (AFM related) Could this be the cause? Also I've been told about a trim POT for adjusting idle mixtures (It's been so long since I started this project I can't remember if I pulled one out or not).

Finally are there any sensors that could cause the ecu to go into limp mode? EGT. ect? (o2 was new but probably poisoned now)

 

Only a disconnected map sensor will cause limp mode.

Any PFC has to be setup exactly for your injectors, and your fuel pressure has to be properly adjusted to the correct value.

No map is truely CORRECT until you tune AFRs and verify that timing is safe.
Most default maps are rich and have too much timing removed.

You always have to tune.

 

I went through this when I started up my FC3s--you need to take care of all the external stuff first. First, get a pressure tester (www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html has one designed for twin turbos). Make sure there are ZERO vacuum leaks. Where is your pressure sensor hooked up? I have mine hooked to the lowest nipple on the front of the UIM. Make sure all your sensors are in spec as they greatly affect fuel delivery. Set your fuel pressure... most people run either 36ish or 40ish with the vacuum line disconnected (I set it with the car off using the fuel pump check connector on the passenger shock tower).

After all this, you need to go and set up your injectors, MAP sensor, etc in the commander. But be advised that at this point, if it still is undriveable, you need to decide whether to take the plunge into serious self tuning or just wait until a knowledgeable tuner travels your way.

If you don't have a datalogit, a wideband, and significant knowledge of tuning a PFC you'll probably never be able to iron out the driveability issues (I'm not even talking about boosting). I am running 720/1680 and I basically had to redo the entire map. Nothing was right, and hardly anything was even close to being driveable. and that's because my car is just so far off (in terms of the modifications) from any of the basemaps floating around.

EDIT: The AFM wiring has nothing to do with this. Nor does variable resistor you seem to be referring to, which adjusts idle mixture on a stock ECU.

 

Thanks for the reply That info from the AFM wiring was exactly what I needed (Got "told" about that pot, but couldn't figure how it related to a PFC, glad to have it confirmed as spurious information).

I'm still running stock primaries (have the benefit of higher octane fuel/gas here as opposed to the US, but still doesn't compare to the 105 in japan). It's pretty much self tuning to a point for me, as I'm 4 hours drive from the nearest competent rotary tuner. Will switch to 800 all round once I've got the car to a tuner.

I've narrowed my problem down to the FRP actually, it's a faulty unit or my pressure tester is faulty. Have installed a stock FRP again and now the car runs to lean (especially for the ignition settings on the stock map!). Though not helping is the vac source is still from the stock location, instead of switching to a primary runner. Will cross the FRP bridge again when the time comes

cewrx7r1 : Thanks for the clarification on the limp mode, was appreciated despite the mildly long winded statement of the obvious that followed Peace Bro