PSI R2

AMEN! not to eager to cut in to my PMC wires without being positive

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You newbs have to start showing that you have the "Right Stuff" to pilot a FD!

HYDOUKEN

iTrader: (1)

No pain / No gain

jmadams74

Wow! I don't know what to say. I've had my RX7 since new. . .and learned a tremendous amount and proud of many (perhaps small) accomplishments. Some of the more challenging (for a non expert) were replacing the pillow ***** which I couldn't have done without Max Cooper's writeup; removing the UIM and replacing the check valves and a couple of solenoids with Dave's help and not sure who the author of the wonderful "how to remove the UIM" article; installed the PFC, datlalogit, Innovate lc-1/xd-1 and got it all working in synch with each other (using writeups from this forum and the Innovate site)!; plus all the "bolt on" mods that are for the most part admittedly relatively easy for our cars; hmm, and wouldn't want to leave out changing the fuel filter regularly, ugh. And Chuck, I've learned more about PFC tuning from your writeups and help than anyone on the forum. But if the standard for being allowed to "pilot" these wonderful cars (and participate on this forum without being ridiculed) is having the "right stuff" and being able to figure everything out by oneself, I'll just pull back and continue reading and learning, but leave the posting to those few with "the right stuff."
With that. . .thanks to all who make this one of the most informative, educational sites on the net.
--Jeff

lilfreddie

CALM DOWN GUYS! pin 1E is on connector one. This link may help you. http://www.plxdevices.com/ECUDatabas..._RX7_93_95.pdf
You can aslo verify that you have the correct wire by unplugging all the connectors on the ecu and simply test it with a test light, or preferably with a power probe. When the ac button is on and the fan speed rotary **** is on position 1-4 it sends a ground to terminal 1E. Here is another link to my site with a diagram of the relay wiring. http://catfivemotorsports.com/power_fc_a.htm

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Before the internet and even in the early days we had to do these things by looking at the manual and just trusting in our mechanical skills.

The only write up I ever used was Dale Clark's on how to make the CEL work.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

any way to get a full write up... removing dash, getting to the wires, with pics with every single step possible? i hate only have my #1 blowing cold air and 2 3 and 4 blowing nothing but air

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

How many ppl want a Full Write UP?? i know i do!!

blackr17

where do you get ingition+, right from the key switch or is there some place else?

lilfreddie

I am going to make something real nice and maybe it could become a sticky.

blackr17

did this now a/c works better than it has since i bought the car. Thanks

v8huntr

when i turn the ac on i can hear compressor click but there is no cold air. i can hear hear something click and rpm goes up.

Anyway, I took my car to shop and found out that high and low pressure on a/c system is about the same. Shop told me that car needs new surge valve?? but they weren't sure. Is there anyway i can check is compressor is on?

lilfreddie

You should be able to look at the front of the compressor and have someone click it to the on position, you will see the front of the compressor engage and start spinning, if your compressor is spinning and the pressure does not drop on the low side and does not rise on the high side, the compressor failed. you will need to change the drier, compressor, and expansion valve. you also need to make sure the cooling fans are working properly. hope this helps.

X Factor

iTrader: (4)

Is the wiring connection shown on diagram B-1d coming off 1E to the refrigerant pressure swith the circuit your connecting the relay into?
..............................
Locate wire 1E (Violet wire) - it is the third wire from the end on connector one. Cut the wire 2” from ECU. On the harness side you will hook 1E to (86). On terminal (85) on the relay will go to ignition +. Terminal (87) will go to 1E that was cut on the Power FC side. Terminal (30) will go straight to chassis ground.
..............................

spoolin1012

iTrader: (2)

If I ground wire 1E directly to the ground on the battery, will i still need to continue with the relay?

X Factor

iTrader: (4)

Any feedback on the A/C relay fix?

)EIB(

iTrader: (4)

This fix is GREAT. Just follow lilfreddie's instruction and have it done already. You can tap the 12V switched power either from the stereo or run a wire from the empty 12V switched power output by the dead pedal on the driver's side.

Rx7aholic

iTrader: (22)

Hey catfivemotorsports,I did this mod with the relay and only thing happen for me was idle jump to 1100 rpm, and no compressor kick in? I did follow your relay diagram even have the company next to me and nothing work, any info I am missing?

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

If your AC was working on at lease one fan speed before the change, then you hosed something or missed something. This can be easliy verified with simple testing. Their fix has been applied to many cars and works perfectly.

If your wiring is correct and the relay is the right type and is functioning; then it is obvious that you have some type of AC problem.

Low fluid pressure, bad pressure switch, bad temperature switch, or bad wiring.

go7

iTrader: (1)

I have one questions. you said to hook the 1E wire to (86) (85) and (87) my problem is where to find and identify that (86) (85) and (87).


Thanks.

jmadams74

I finally got around to doing this a couple months ago, and as stated in here, it worked perfectly. I hope I am being too literal when reading your comment. The writeup does not say to hook the 1E to (86) (85) and (87). It says to cut the 1E wire, hook the PFC side of 1E to (87), the harness side of 1E to (86), hot ignition wire to (85), and ground to (30). Also, not being too experienced with wiring, it took a little time before I was absolutely sure I had the violet 1E wire identified correctly. It's easy to get confused depending upon which way the diagram is facing. All of that said, it worked perfectly. The relay terminal numbers were stamped into the plastic on the relay I bought.

Rx7aholic

iTrader: (22)

Hey cewrxr1, Ok here goes I just spend close to a $1,000 (nippon denso system) to get my ac fix, I have replace everything from condensor, linecs, evap, dryer, pressure switch and many more, plus took it to R&S Strauss to vacum the system and recharge it with R12 freon and it had the factory ecu in and it work fine with all the fan numbers. So I know the system work. What make it confusing to me is that everyone have the same issues but they did this mod they ac work fine, and I follow the step carefull. I guess I might have to change the relay yo see if things change. I notice u mention if the relay is the right type? Does it matter if it's a 4 pin or 5 pin? I know five pin have 87a, 87 that is only diffrence I can tell from these relay btw there not exactly bosch type. I guess will try with a bosch 5 pin to see if it make a difference.
Thanks
Khris

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

If the realy does not have numeric marked terminals, then it should have sometype of markings on it, BUT!

Here is the deal. If the relay is a specific used non-genericl one, it may not be marked. General use relays are usually marked.
***********************

85 - 86 connect to the relay coil. When AC is turned on it activates the contacts 87 - 30 to ground out the ecu.
Very simple basic DC circuit.

islanders_rx7

iTrader: (4)

Yup this very easy just follow the instructions! I went to radio shack and picked up an automotive relay p/n# 275-0001. Aircond works in all settings.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The right type is:
(1) 12 vdc
(2) minimum contact requirement is a set of normally opened (NO) contacts, and can be low amperage (less than 1 amp).
(3) the above gives you 4 pins.
(4) some relays also have a set of normally close contacts (NC). This shares one with the NO. Thus we now have 5 pins.
(5) 2 pins go to the coil to energize it. When energized, the NC opens (1 controlled pin), and the NO closes (1 controlled pin) and in between and servicing both is the common 5th pin.

Even without any markings, using a ohm meter with a little understanding will enable one to determine which is which. After all I taught myself this stuff way before you-all were born and when transistors first came out. No chips or electronic games or PCs. Just tube and simple transistor radios. Boy you youngsters have it rough!