Power FC PFC settings on newly revived single turbo FD
10-02-17, 08:06 PM
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PFC settings on newly revived single turbo FD
I was going to make this a long post with everything that's been going on but I felt like it was turning into a borderline memoir.... EDIT: turned into a memoir anyway. 
So long story short, I've got an issue going on with my 94 FD after spending the last 10 months correcting shotty workmanship from the previous owner. The issue is what seems to be a common problem, a super rich idle, but I feel like my scenario is a little more complicated since the car ran fine before and was previously tuned.
Background
Right before winter I discovered that after removing the cruise control unit, the car would no longer idle. Checked the idle settings in the PFC and sure enough, all three were set to ZERO. I assume the previous owner had a high idle condition and instead of checking the cable he set the the idle parameters to zero during diagnosis and never reset it. Since the cruise cable held the throttle open slightly it still "idled."
When I tore into the car, I found the harness was way beyond salvage. So I ordered a new engine harness from Rywire. For whatever reason, Rywire does not include a Fuel Temperature Sensor or the IAC valve connectors. They give you the two extra wires to wire in your own I guess, which I'm not sure why that can't be included in the $700 price tag... Anyway. I've read that neither the FTP or the IAC are a big deal, especially since I drive the car about 700 miles a year in the summer only so I didn't worry about them.
The Problem
First start I fouled the plugs. Went through the de-flooding process and re-tried. Got it to fire back up but my AFRs are 10.3~10.5 when I feather the throttle enough to keep it running around 1000-1200rpm. It never seems to smooth out even after a minute or so of light throttle pressure to keep it running. If I let off the throttle, it dies. What I don't have the knowledge to quite figure out is if the lack of the fuel temperature sensor, IAC valve, or if the fuel map is just too rich at idle now with the stuck cruise control cable removed (assuming it was tuned in that condition) is the issue, or if it's something else.
So the question is, can anyone recommend some settings/adjustment if they are needed for the removal of the FTP and the IAC valve? Or can perhaps take a look at my map to see if maybe it is indeed a little on the 'rich' side in the idle cells? Or even any ideas on what the heck else I should check?
Some Modification Details (relevant ones)
Any help is greatly appreciated, even if you just throw some ideas out on stuff to check!
So long story short, I've got an issue going on with my 94 FD after spending the last 10 months correcting shotty workmanship from the previous owner. The issue is what seems to be a common problem, a super rich idle, but I feel like my scenario is a little more complicated since the car ran fine before and was previously tuned.
Background
Right before winter I discovered that after removing the cruise control unit, the car would no longer idle. Checked the idle settings in the PFC and sure enough, all three were set to ZERO. I assume the previous owner had a high idle condition and instead of checking the cable he set the the idle parameters to zero during diagnosis and never reset it. Since the cruise cable held the throttle open slightly it still "idled."
When I tore into the car, I found the harness was way beyond salvage. So I ordered a new engine harness from Rywire. For whatever reason, Rywire does not include a Fuel Temperature Sensor or the IAC valve connectors. They give you the two extra wires to wire in your own I guess, which I'm not sure why that can't be included in the $700 price tag... Anyway. I've read that neither the FTP or the IAC are a big deal, especially since I drive the car about 700 miles a year in the summer only so I didn't worry about them.
The Problem
First start I fouled the plugs. Went through the de-flooding process and re-tried. Got it to fire back up but my AFRs are 10.3~10.5 when I feather the throttle enough to keep it running around 1000-1200rpm. It never seems to smooth out even after a minute or so of light throttle pressure to keep it running. If I let off the throttle, it dies. What I don't have the knowledge to quite figure out is if the lack of the fuel temperature sensor, IAC valve, or if the fuel map is just too rich at idle now with the stuck cruise control cable removed (assuming it was tuned in that condition) is the issue, or if it's something else.
So the question is, can anyone recommend some settings/adjustment if they are needed for the removal of the FTP and the IAC valve? Or can perhaps take a look at my map to see if maybe it is indeed a little on the 'rich' side in the idle cells? Or even any ideas on what the heck else I should check?
Some Modification Details (relevant ones)
- 13b-rew with ~4500 miles on the rebuild by Carlos Gonzalez in Ocala, Florida
- Street ported
- one piece apex seals
- all emissions BS removed and blocked off
- A/C pump removed
- Turbonetics 62-1 single turbo setup with greddy FMIC
Fuel - Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump
- fuel pump rewire mod is done
- AEM fuel pressure regulator
- Stock 550cc primary injectors
- Cosmo primary rail?
- Bosch 1600cc secondaries
- KG secondary rail
Ignition - Stock coils
- new 8mm plug wires
- BUR9EQ NGK plugs both leading and trailing
Electronics/Tuning - Apex PowerFC
- FC datalogit
- AEM UEGO wideband
- Greddy Profec (original/antique) boost controller.
Any help is greatly appreciated, even if you just throw some ideas out on stuff to check!
10-17-17, 01:58 AM
#2
The pfc has got an underlying map on it that you can’t edit for idle and what not. A trick around it is to zero out all of the idle rpms and tune it to idle based on the map.
There’s no setting to remove the idle control valve but for the fuel temp sensor, on settings 2 change all of the values in INJ vs fuel temp to 1.0.
If you have the option of running wiring for the idle control valve, you should Definitely do it in my opinion.
There’s no setting to remove the idle control valve but for the fuel temp sensor, on settings 2 change all of the values in INJ vs fuel temp to 1.0.
If you have the option of running wiring for the idle control valve, you should Definitely do it in my opinion.
10-18-17, 11:17 AM
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Thanks Frank!
After doing some more research and trial and error I found that the Idle settings were at zero for a reason in order to control timing and fuel manually through the PFC so I reset the values to zero. Luckily I hadn't touched anything else, so it was a simple change. I saved the untouched tune as soon as I got the car anyway just in case.
I also re-did the vacuum routing for the MAP sensor from the previous location which was tee'd off the boost controller solenoid (makes no sense to do it that way IMHO, but I was trying to put everything back the way it was before when it ran..) to a direct connection to the upper intake manifold next to the IAC valve. Just changing the vacuum source alone bumped my idle AFRs from low low-mid 10s back up to ~12.8. I'm not sure if that's even the most appropriate vacuum source for the MAP sensor, but it at least helped.
Once I was able to turn the car on for more than 20 seconds without fouling plugs (again) I rechecked all the mechanical adjustments on the throttle body and it turns out the previous owner must have fiddled with those as well because 3/4 of a turn on the air inlet screw and 3/4 turn of the set screw at the top left of the throttle body (if looking at it from the driverside fender) and boom it idles pretty smooth at ~1000rpm. **Just to note, the air inlet screw adjustment alone did not help.**
Basically where I'm at now, assuming the missing fuel temp sensor wouldn't cause a rich idle, is re-do all of the vacuum lines, re-check and re-adjust the throttle body to make sure they are set properly, and then if it comes down to it I may have to lean out the idle cells a bit. I'm trying to make sure all my bases are covered so come spring time I'm not dropping a nightmare off on the dyno when I get it re-tuned.
After doing some more research and trial and error I found that the Idle settings were at zero for a reason in order to control timing and fuel manually through the PFC so I reset the values to zero. Luckily I hadn't touched anything else, so it was a simple change. I saved the untouched tune as soon as I got the car anyway just in case.
I also re-did the vacuum routing for the MAP sensor from the previous location which was tee'd off the boost controller solenoid (makes no sense to do it that way IMHO, but I was trying to put everything back the way it was before when it ran..) to a direct connection to the upper intake manifold next to the IAC valve. Just changing the vacuum source alone bumped my idle AFRs from low low-mid 10s back up to ~12.8. I'm not sure if that's even the most appropriate vacuum source for the MAP sensor, but it at least helped.
Once I was able to turn the car on for more than 20 seconds without fouling plugs (again) I rechecked all the mechanical adjustments on the throttle body and it turns out the previous owner must have fiddled with those as well because 3/4 of a turn on the air inlet screw and 3/4 turn of the set screw at the top left of the throttle body (if looking at it from the driverside fender) and boom it idles pretty smooth at ~1000rpm. **Just to note, the air inlet screw adjustment alone did not help.**
Basically where I'm at now, assuming the missing fuel temp sensor wouldn't cause a rich idle, is re-do all of the vacuum lines, re-check and re-adjust the throttle body to make sure they are set properly, and then if it comes down to it I may have to lean out the idle cells a bit. I'm trying to make sure all my bases are covered so come spring time I'm not dropping a nightmare off on the dyno when I get it re-tuned.
10-19-17, 09:51 PM
#4
Are you on the power fc yahoo group ran by Arghx? There’s some really useful write ups on there. One in particular is for adjusting the throttle body. It helped me a good bit to get a good idle on my car. It idles about 10.8-11.1 but i haven’t had time to mess with the map anymore. I’m also running 1000cc injectors on the primaries so I expected to have a tough time tuning for idle. I’ve got my pressure sensor in the same spot you identified switching it to. That’s the spot it comes at stock so I figured I’d leave it there.
11-02-17, 01:13 PM
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I use 0 for all three idle speeds as it allows me to adjust idle timing to my specs which includes negative lag. With manual idle timing and fuel control you can lean
the idle more which causes idle to burn cleaner. Ported engines will idle better with over all more timing with negative lag. Stock timing is very minimal and requires a lot of air and fuel but is smooth.
Normal people want smooth quiet engines. The only down side is the ISC will not work. Thus you end up with a manual idle system with no AC idle control. I added a non Mazda large
solenoid that gives the engine more air when the AC comes on. It uses the PCV port and flows air from the TB elbow. Thus I have a two stage idle speed system.
It does require a minor fuel and air flow adjustment between the two major seasons.
A loaded rotary engine (such as the AC on) can utilize more timing and negative lag for a more efficient SMOOTH combustion than a non loaded engine. The non loaded engine requires less timing for it to be smooth.
the idle more which causes idle to burn cleaner. Ported engines will idle better with over all more timing with negative lag. Stock timing is very minimal and requires a lot of air and fuel but is smooth.
Normal people want smooth quiet engines. The only down side is the ISC will not work. Thus you end up with a manual idle system with no AC idle control. I added a non Mazda large
solenoid that gives the engine more air when the AC comes on. It uses the PCV port and flows air from the TB elbow. Thus I have a two stage idle speed system.
It does require a minor fuel and air flow adjustment between the two major seasons.
A loaded rotary engine (such as the AC on) can utilize more timing and negative lag for a more efficient SMOOTH combustion than a non loaded engine. The non loaded engine requires less timing for it to be smooth.
