I installed my pfc and did a non-seq conversion. I check all my plugs and everything looks correct. But I turned my car on acc and it has the overheat light on. I checked the sensor screen on the commander, non of the sensors are highlighted. When I try to start the car it will not start, I did notice I can't hear the fuel pump.
These sensors that are on NTR, CAT, PAC, CCN, HWL. The sensors that are on when I try starting it are the same including STR, A/C, FPD. Battery voltage is now 11.6 was 12.0 before I tried starting it a few times.


voltages:
PIM 2.58
VTA1 .69
VTA2 1.6
VMOP 1.13
WTRT 2.63
AIRT 2.66
Fuel 4.08
O2s .01

When I first put the key in a buzzer went off, but then I removed the Airpump relay because the Airpump is gone, and the buzzer no longer comes on.

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions. This is really annoying considering I thought I verified everything.

Its an Auto if that makes any difference.

Thanks

 

(1)This needs to be in the PFC forum, not here.

(2)The PFC can be used to run an auto but then the tranny does not work 100% as it should. There were a very few old post about how to try and make it all work.

(3)Too many varibles to know what is wrong.

(4)Depending on your skill level, going non-seq and new ECU at the same time is risky. Reinstall stock ecu and get everthing working good, then put the PFC in.

 

Relocated...

Oooh... Automatic and you went non-seq... You just love pain.

 

doing a non seq setup is not the problem...it is simplistic....where I'm having the problem is understanding the PFC. I just can't figure out the fact that the PFC is supposed to show error codes, which it has, but isn't clearly showing what they are. I've checked others posts, and everything looks correct, IE voltages and sensors that are on. The problem is I can't figure out why my fuel pump doesn't seem to be running. Does the PFC have the option to prevent the car from starting if there is an error?

 

Let's start with the basics ... does the starter turn over?

 

yes the starter seems to be functioning perfectly.
I can't hear the fuel pump (but at the same time I don't remember if the fuel pump is quiet when it worked)....but I'm going to check the lines today for fuel. I'm currently recharging my battery.

Any other suggestions to help me through this?

 

ok update.....
I tried steping on the accel pedal while starting the car and I heard a buzzing/clicking noise from my engine bay. I then tried to listen and find where it was coming from while pulling the throttle cable a bit. Its coming from under my UIM in the area of the FPR and FPD. But I don't know for sure what it is, sounds like and electric switch clicking really fast. Anyone have an Idea of what it could be?

 

now that alarm tone from the counsel is coming on after about 10secs. This is confusing and driving me nuts.

 

forget the last comment....that was solved

 

Ok, lets not push the throttle while starting. That will just make this problem worse.

So we know that the starter is working. Lets check spark. Pull a spark plug wire and hang it near a piece of metal. It should arc as you try to start the car. You can do this for each wire. Of course if you have a timing light that will make this an arc free process.

Don't forget to check that the main ignition harness is plugged in. I left this one unplugged and felt like a real dummy when I discovered that it was unplugged. This harness did get unplugged when you took the manifold off, so could easily have not been reconnected.

 

Even though your MAP sensor voltage loos good (PIM on PFC), you still may want to check it. I've heard a really fast clicking/buzzing coming from it when I had the electrical connector unplugged. That situation also prevented my car from starting.

 

ok the car has spark, I did the fp/gnd check on the diag and I can hear it running. But I still can't get it to start.

 

I have three thoughts. First be sure the car is not flooded. Pull a leading plug and check for fuel on the plug or in the chamber. If flooded you will smell it and probably be able to feel it in the hole and on the plug. This is just one of those checks to be sure you are not loosing your mind.

Second, it looks like from your other thread that you have fuel in the rail. You might want to invest in an inline fuel pressure gauge. You can test your pump 100% and verify that it maintains pressure while cranking and doesn't drop under load. Adding this gauge can come in handy, so add if you like.

Third is to check and see if your injectors are opening. You can try clicking them open by putting a paper clip from the ECU pin to GND and having someone under hood to listen. After that you probably need to look at pulling them to be sure fuel is coming out. It will be difficult to monitor the voltage on the injector output without an oscilliscope because it is switching too fast for a multimeter to pick up.

On another note, not sure why your AC is on when you are cranking?? And your VTA2, throttle position sensor #2, seems a little high, not that it should effect starting.

 

Is there any extra pin's to clip on the PFC when installing on an Auto?