guys i have gone single turbo with my PFC and i want to hear some feedback on this questions:

1. what sensors are needed for proper PFC operation...i figured obviously the MAP sensor and the injectors, but howabout the idle air control solenoid, AWS, turbo control solenoids underneth the manifold? can i just take out all these solenoids from the manifold

2. how is the "exhuast temp overheat" dummy light used with the PFC

3. my friend has his idle air solenoid making a "buzzing" noise constantly while the car is on..idle seems somewhat ok but the "buzzing" noise coming from it is kinda annoying..anyone have any suggestions why its "buzzinig" really loud?

thanks
Tim

 

1 - I'm assuming that since you went single turbo, you don't really care about passing emissions anymore. I'm also assuming that you have a mid-pipe and an aftermarket wastegate/boost controller. If that is the case then you can pretty much get rid of all of them. You'll need a wastegate solenoid to control boost, but I assume you have an aftermarket one at this point. If I were you I'd get an emissions block off plate kit and just go to town. You can eliminate the fuel pressure regulator solenoid by just running the vac line right to the regulator. The Air Control Valve can be blocked off and it's solenoids can go. The air pump can go too if your running a mid-pipe. The EGR valve can be blocked off and it's solenoid can be removed. The OEM turbo control, precontrol, charge relief, and wastegate solenoids can go. The double throttle solenoid can go and the actuator can be blocked off and the butterflies removed. The AWS system can also be blocked off.

2 - The PFC's manual explains exactly what conditions will cause the exhaust overheat to light, and whether it will light steadily or flash. Basically though from what I remember off the top of my head. Steady on signifies a sensor problem, check the Etc, Sensor screen to see what's up. Flashing means either boost above set limit, approaching stock MAP sensors 1.2 bar limit, or sustained knock values over 60. The PFC also uses the check engine light to warn of dangerous conditions, again check the manual to be sure.

3 - I'm not too sure on this one, buzzing sounds can somtime indicate an electrical short.

 

Oh yeah, I forgot you asked what should stay. Yeah, the MAP Sensor should stay, the Idle Speed Control solenoid should stay, and the Intake Air Temp sensor should stay. Also the TPS sensor needs to be there. I think those are the only sensor/solenoids in the Upper Intake Manifold/TB area that you need to keep.

 

i kept the 4 injectors, air temp,water temp, tps,isc, m.o.p, both plugs at the crank trigger, o2,both grounds,knock sensor, the plug that goes under the water temp, and the plug that goes under the oil sender i removed the harness and took all the unnessary wires out, end results check it out :

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/katanna24...c=ph%26.view=t