Well I now have my PFC and i bought it because I got a good deal at it and I will certainly use it in the future.

I have the HKS filters on (not RS), HKS downpipe ready to go on, Catback will be next and some hardpipes for the filter connection to the turbo inlets.

Having searched all of this will cause higher boost/spikes for sure.

To keep that under control I'm gonna look into do thesame thing as Damian with his manual boostcontrol setup.

My question is if I'm going to have negative things happening to the engie if I put it on now? I would like the PFC in the car to monitor some things to have a first guess if everything is still working correctly.

Many thanks

 

The PowerFC running the base map should work well with that set of mods. I'm using it on my car with a stock intake box w/ K&N drop in filter, hard pipes, Blitz stock mount intercooler, downpipe, stock cat and cat-back exhaust.

On my car, the PowerFc was not doing a good job of controlling boost so I got a Greddy Profec B (Spec 1) boost controller. For others it does a good job of controlling boost. Try it for yourself and see.

I would strong suggest an electronic boost controller especially in Belgium where there can be big temperature swings between seasons and between morning/daytime. You generally have to keep adjusting the manual ones for temperate changes and they don't respond as quickly as an electronic one does. The boost controller was my single best mod as it helped the boost come on faster and hold the desired PSI better. Other people will have different opinions.

Good luck.

 

Thanks,

I thought the PFC had some kind of a minimum boostcontroller inside.

I was offered an Apexi AVC-r yesterday to trade against my Sparco seats but I blew it of.
My car is a weekend car and mostly summer drive. Although I might get it out in winter when the weather is OK. So yeah, the car might see some rather high fluctuations of outdoor temperature.

Though, when setting the boost in relative high oputdoor temperature it would mean in winter it would see lower intake temps, reducing the chance of detonating (lower intake temp->colder mixture-> postponing detontation)
On the other hand the lower intake temps will cause higher internal pressure for the mixture and at max or near max torque would increase detonation danger... .

I just don't like all those things in the cockpit making the interior look like a christmas tree in spring ;-)

If I go with the manual controlers I will set them at the OEm 10-8-10 boost pattern whie the PFC is set for 12psi in both base and mod map. So in both cases it will get slightly more fuel for I will be running for now and keep me fairly safe from detonation danger.

Am i thinking correct here?

 

Nope, the PFC (and ANY ecu, for that matter) is much more sophisticated than that, thank god.

The PFC has a 20x20 matrix of fuel and timing settings that vary by boost pressure and rpm. Setting the PFC for 12 psi won't really do anything on a car with aftermarket boost control except set the limit for the PFC's overboost fuel-cut.

 

So the PFC will read the actual boost pressure by connecting the ECU to the MAP sensor as the OEM ECu (or any other) does..

Either way, I'm still feeling for the Manual controller setup for boost issues.

I have searched and the electronic controllers still have issues with boost spikes. And like I said, I don't like the looks of it at all

 

Where are getting that info? It's entirely untrue. You shouldn't experience spiking with an electronic boost controller, they work very, very well. Some work better than others with the sequential setup -- the original Profec B Spec B (same as the new Spec S?) works great with the sequential setup. Quick boost rise and zero spiking.

Perhaps you're getting boost creep mixed up with boost spiking. Creep occurs when the wastegate is overwhelmed and has nothing to do with boost controllers.

 

You're right, I had it mixed up...