Power FC My Experience on Power FC/Idle Issue
06-06-05, 10:14 PM
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My Experience on Power FC/Idle Issue
Just thought I would share my experience with a newly installed Apexi Power FC and the all too common fluctuating idle issue.
I recently purchased and installed my Power FC from rx7.com after the addition of a downpipe, apexi intake/hardpipes, and Racing Beat catback. I of course followed the document created by Dale Clark, which was very informative and made for a very easy install.
I disconnected the four wires from the harness that are not needed, which are listed as: USE FOR REFERENCE ONLY
egr switch (pin 16, blue/green), AWS (pin 26, brown/yellow), EGR valve (pin 26, blue/yellow), split air bypass valve (pin 26, black/red).
I then followed the learning process and everything seemed to be fine. With that done I jumped in and blipped the throttle, which caused the idle to fluctuate from about 1200rpm to 980rpm.
Before the install I read several posts commenting that the learning process could take up to a week to balance out, but for some reason I just didn’t buy into this.
After an hour cruise I came back and the idle was still fluctuating for a short period of time and would then balance out. Although every time the fans would turn on, or I kicked on the running lights, or even blipped the throttle the idle would begin to fluctuate again.
I then started to adjust the idle bleed screw (after many adjustments) to approx 3/8ths of a turn out from the closed position. I then adjusted the vertical idle screw located on the throttle body until the idle balanced to about 860rpm on the commander. This was set without any electrical or mechanical loading exerted on the engine (ex. fans, lights, AC, ect.).
I jumped back into the seat and no matter what I did the idle remained steady at approx. 860 rpm.
I know this post is a bit lengthy, but hopefully it will be helpful to others.
I recently purchased and installed my Power FC from rx7.com after the addition of a downpipe, apexi intake/hardpipes, and Racing Beat catback. I of course followed the document created by Dale Clark, which was very informative and made for a very easy install.
I disconnected the four wires from the harness that are not needed, which are listed as: USE FOR REFERENCE ONLY
egr switch (pin 16, blue/green), AWS (pin 26, brown/yellow), EGR valve (pin 26, blue/yellow), split air bypass valve (pin 26, black/red).
I then followed the learning process and everything seemed to be fine. With that done I jumped in and blipped the throttle, which caused the idle to fluctuate from about 1200rpm to 980rpm.
Before the install I read several posts commenting that the learning process could take up to a week to balance out, but for some reason I just didn’t buy into this.
After an hour cruise I came back and the idle was still fluctuating for a short period of time and would then balance out. Although every time the fans would turn on, or I kicked on the running lights, or even blipped the throttle the idle would begin to fluctuate again.
I then started to adjust the idle bleed screw (after many adjustments) to approx 3/8ths of a turn out from the closed position. I then adjusted the vertical idle screw located on the throttle body until the idle balanced to about 860rpm on the commander. This was set without any electrical or mechanical loading exerted on the engine (ex. fans, lights, AC, ect.).
I jumped back into the seat and no matter what I did the idle remained steady at approx. 860 rpm.
I know this post is a bit lengthy, but hopefully it will be helpful to others.
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