I was ready to download a map from that site, the one from Pedro Monzon.
He has pretty much the same mods I am currently going to get, so the map should be quiete fine, then I'll fine tune it.
I noticed that the IGL-IGT maps shows negative values as low as -10.
why?

is it an error?

shoul not always the leading fire before the trailing?
has anyone ever used this map?

 

If you are talking about seeing negatives when you select "DISPLAY IGL-IGT" then you are correct ----negative split is a bad thing.

 

Just to confirm what jeff48 said, negative split is BAD! You want to highlight those cells with the negative split and change them to at least 0 or a positive number.

If you are in the process of tuning your car, I would recommend that you start out with split = 15.

Brian

 

It looks like some misprints made it into the maps on the site. Change the following values in the IGL map: N13/P07 from 26 to 36, N13/P08 from 25 tp 35. We'll get those values changed on the site.

http://rx7.homeip.net/pfc/pfc_view.p...onzon&SCALE=US

Regarding the two -1s, they were left in there by whoever did the tuning. You'll need to correct those yourself.

Scott

 

Ok but I can see negativesalso in the base and base mod maps...

Where to find a good guide to tune the '7 with the Power FC by yourself?

 

Seems these maps are pretty much useless.
if there are errors like these, i think there can be everywhere in the map...

 

I reported years ago that even the stock PFC maps have some negatoive split. Plus the split is very inconsistant. Jumps all over even when on boost.

You will also see some maps changed by major tuners
where they changed IGL and never even looked at IGT.


One owner's engine blew after a major tuner did his PFC just because of this. AT 10PSI boost at about 6000 rpm, a cell had negative split and that is exactly where it blew.

 

Chuck,

have you had a chance to play with timing split? I've went with a split of 8 from 5600 up. I've noticed the same erractic timing readings with some of my logged runs, but the split was never negative. It seemed that it would always reduce timing for both L and T the same amount, almost like the ecu had some sort of anti-knock feature (which we know it doesn't) but it never corresponded with a high knock reading in the area of the misguided timing.

Tim

 

I run 3 split up untill about P12 where I start increasing it. From P15 through P18 I am running 8 split. P19 has 10, and P20 has 15 split. These are from N8 through N20. Plan on a spring dyno tuning session where I will
be concentrating on split and it's affect.

Just recently changed my setting 3 boost map references for P17 to P20 based on my boost pressure tests.

P17 = 12psi
P18 = 14psi
P19 = 16psi
P20 = 18+PSI

Now trying to solve my boost drop from 4500 to 8000 rpm. Loose about 1 psi boost.

 

Split is one of the "great mysteries" as far as I can tell. NOBODY has ever conclusively shown how split affects power to my satisfaction.

I don't want one dyno where someone says "yeah I went from 10 to 0 and picked up 8 hp". I want a FULL test where IGL, IGT, and Split are ALL played with on the same day! Something like what Chuck is planning I bet! I want to do the same thing myself!

As for me? Well my theory is that the need for split is brought about by the geometry of the engine. Thus, at ANY RPM and ANY pressure there is ONE split that is best for the whole map. I took some measurements by eye and came up with a split value of 18 (ballpark here) and I run 18 split everywhere on the whole map. My last dyno I made 350 rwtq and around 415 rwhp. Not bad at 15 PSI. (T04S single)

Brian

 

Brian you are correct
split is necessary due to long combustion chamber of the rotary, otherwise they could just have put two sparks without any difference in the timing (split 0) like for ex. AR engines.
But I don't agree when you say you have to run with same split everywhere in the map.
Increasing rpms will give yoy a higher speed in the rotor to travel from one side of the chamber to the other so I think it is better to reduce the split.
As any of you ever looked at and compared IGL and IGT maps between the ones on the site?
I will do ASAP.
There must be some kind of thumb rule for timing advance and timing split, as in piston engines.
They cannot jump all over the map like this.

 

Ahhh but....

When we speak of split and timing we are talking really about ignition timing difference in DEGREES, not "milliseconds".

So you fire off the leading plug at eccentric shaft position X degrees, then at position X+Y (Y is the split), you fire off the trailing. Position, not time. So whether the engine is turning 800 rpm at idle or 8000 rpm at redline, the AMOUNT OF ENGINE ROTATION (or split) in degrees from leading to trailing ignition should be the same (according to me).

As RPM increases, it is true that you will need to advance the timing and THIS is what has to do with "time" in the milliseconds sense. You fire off the leading (and trailing too) earlier to account for the speed of the rotor moving.... but you keep the split the same.

I hope that explains what I am thinking.

Brian

 

Yes Brian I understand nw, IGL-IGT shows a difference in timing, not a difference in advance, so I think it should be (as you say) pretty much the same all over the map, this id due to the distance between the two sparks, right?