Power FC IDLE SURGE...@212F (100C) on restart?
Thread Starter
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 1
From: lebanon
IDLE SURGE...@212F (100C) on restart?
I have a mate with a PFC that has an odd problem...
When the car is shut down then restarted it starts to surge the revs from 700 to 2 or 3 K in steps..up down up down, this only happens when the water temp is above 100C or 212F, what causes this? can it be fixed?
I will do a search on this topic, if anyone has any answers please post here or email me
riceracing@ozemail.com.au
When the car is shut down then restarted it starts to surge the revs from 700 to 2 or 3 K in steps..up down up down, this only happens when the water temp is above 100C or 212F, what causes this? can it be fixed?
I will do a search on this topic, if anyone has any answers please post here or email me
riceracing@ozemail.com.au
Full Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: MA
Common Problem.
Don't worry Pete,
It's a common problem. A couple of things can be done to help greatly reduce the idle surging if not totally eliminate it:
1. Adjust the idle set screw and also bleed out some more air from the wax-rod screw
2. Adjust the TPS. *I assume he has the FC Commander?* Under the ETC menu there is the Sensor/SW check. VTA1 refers to the throttle sensor Full Range and VTA2 refers to the throttle sensor narrow range. Check to see that both of these are in the required range with the car's ignition in the on position, car not running. Just floor the pedal for the full range and release the pedal all the way for the narrow range.
3. Although it doesn't seem to say so in the manual you are apparently supposed to let the car idle for between 10~20min after initial install of the PFC so that the ECU can learn. If he is not running the base maps he won't want to re-initialize all data though because the changes will be lost!
4. Can't remember what else. I'm sure you have already found others in the archives.
Good Luck!
Rob
p.s. I assume he is the one that is running the leading/trailing plugs together? If so and you guys have already tuned his timing map mind hooking me up with a copy?! hehe....
It's a common problem. A couple of things can be done to help greatly reduce the idle surging if not totally eliminate it:
1. Adjust the idle set screw and also bleed out some more air from the wax-rod screw
2. Adjust the TPS. *I assume he has the FC Commander?* Under the ETC menu there is the Sensor/SW check. VTA1 refers to the throttle sensor Full Range and VTA2 refers to the throttle sensor narrow range. Check to see that both of these are in the required range with the car's ignition in the on position, car not running. Just floor the pedal for the full range and release the pedal all the way for the narrow range.
3. Although it doesn't seem to say so in the manual you are apparently supposed to let the car idle for between 10~20min after initial install of the PFC so that the ECU can learn. If he is not running the base maps he won't want to re-initialize all data though because the changes will be lost!
4. Can't remember what else. I'm sure you have already found others in the archives.
Good Luck!
Rob
p.s. I assume he is the one that is running the leading/trailing plugs together? If so and you guys have already tuned his timing map mind hooking me up with a copy?! hehe....
Yellow Dragon is no more
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,687
Likes: 1
From: Knoxville, TN
Pete,
Welcome back . . . anyway is it limited to specifically 100C? Basically my thought is this . . . I am pretty sure Apex reversed engineered the stock ECU and resused most of the basic coding. I think you could follow much of the stock troubleshooting and figure it out ... so when I look up the problem I see coolant sensor, fuel thermosensor, and narror band throttle sensor as some of the problems for rough idle after warm-up.
On a slightly different note, one of the biggest problems specific to the PowerFC is not letting the it learn the engine's idle correctly. If you disconnect power for 15 minutes and then let the car idle for 30 minutes you should be alright. I had to do mine twice when I converted to non-sequential and removed AWS, ACV, double throttle, and EGR because it didn't take the first time.
Welcome back . . . anyway is it limited to specifically 100C? Basically my thought is this . . . I am pretty sure Apex reversed engineered the stock ECU and resused most of the basic coding. I think you could follow much of the stock troubleshooting and figure it out ... so when I look up the problem I see coolant sensor, fuel thermosensor, and narror band throttle sensor as some of the problems for rough idle after warm-up.
On a slightly different note, one of the biggest problems specific to the PowerFC is not letting the it learn the engine's idle correctly. If you disconnect power for 15 minutes and then let the car idle for 30 minutes you should be alright. I had to do mine twice when I converted to non-sequential and removed AWS, ACV, double throttle, and EGR because it didn't take the first time.
The hot wax rod screw only affects idle startup
when the engine is cold, no affect on a hot engine. The only way it could affect a hot engine is if the wax rod is bad and not expanding and contracting as it is suppose too, or one or both of the adjusting screws for the cold start/fast idle cam system are very badly adjusted.
when the engine is cold, no affect on a hot engine. The only way it could affect a hot engine is if the wax rod is bad and not expanding and contracting as it is suppose too, or one or both of the adjusting screws for the cold start/fast idle cam system are very badly adjusted.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
Oct 7, 2015 08:12 PM