I had my pfc tuned last week and during the tuning I blew a hose. Found it and zip tied it on. Everything seemed fine but after the car sat fot a while we noticed that it would, on start up, rpm hunt from 1500-3000. I also noticed I am only getting 14 hg instead of 16hg and the rpm's, when the clutch is in, will sometimes drop to 500. Two final issues are that the fans and lights no longer increase the rpm's and the tuner has my idle set at 720rpm but the computer is reading 800. He said he hasn't seen this, so can anyone point me in the right direction. He thought maybe another hose is off or for some reason it's reading as if it were on a electrical load when it really isn't. Anyone?

 

Unless you are going for emissions testing, set the idles at:
1200 - 850 normal
1200 - 900 Elect
1200 - 1000 A/C.

The left values are fuel cut off points.

RPM cut at 8000+.


Reset the PFC and do a search about this overused subject!

 

is there any way to configure the idle with fans/ac on with stock ecu? I know you can adjust it with the idle control screw but that only increases the idle with no electrical load. Like when my fans turn on it drops to 600-700 rpm and its harder to get moving.

damn i need a pfc... lol

 

so cewrx7r1, I do think I need to adjust the idle a bit and turn the O2 sensor off, as you stated in another post, but then why does the engine seem to go into cold start when you run it for a while, shut it off for 10 or so mins and then restart? It's only these times when it does it, so what do I correct or adjust it? Can it be cured through the idle adjust screw or on the ecu itself, through the commander?
Thanks

 

If it is still warm and goes into warmup mode, then maybe you should loosen up the adjusting screw for the cold start system. It might be opening the throttle too much. Mine is adjust to barely open the throttle in winter. In summer mine is disabled along with cutting off water flow through the unit.

You know that screw that is used along with the hot wax rod on the firewall side of the throttle body. Look it up i the manual!

 

thanks i will check that out

 

I just fixed the 1000-1500 hunt I had. I closed the Idle bleed screw the whole way till it finally stopped. Now the car idles at a perfect 900 all the time. I had it fixed before with just the PFC settings, but the idle was too high. And when I tried to lower it, I would get the hunt. The bleed screw is the key.

 

HELPING the PFC to control idle by adjusting either the throttle set screw or
idle bleed scew has almost always been the cure for these types of problems!


But most people do not understand or have ever learned this even when they had the stock ecu in the car. And then they do not do a search for this type of problem.


This has been docemented and asked almost by all newbs even thought this has been discussed to death since 1999!

ARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Simmer don' na'

 

Now after driving a few days, it idles about 720 to 750 all the time. It purrs nicely now.