Power FC Getting the car ready for tuning.
Getting the car ready for tuning.
Going to the tuner on the 25 may, my first time so i tought seeking some advice on getting the car ready would be good.
Engine is a S4 T2 block with S5 NA (9,7) rotors, naturally aspirated.
Banzai harness, 3bar map sensor, S4 T2 coils with FD igniter(as per the banzai how to)
The car is running ok on the base map supplied from Banzai racing with their harness, haven't changed anything on the map yet.
What things should i check before going to the tuner, to make shure everything is ok with the wiring and general setup of the pfc?
Someone said that i should use the stock NA pressure/map sensor, and rescale the map, because tuning an NA using the 3bar map sensor would be more difficult, is this true? And how would i do that?(please explain in detail)
Engine is a S4 T2 block with S5 NA (9,7) rotors, naturally aspirated.
Banzai harness, 3bar map sensor, S4 T2 coils with FD igniter(as per the banzai how to)
The car is running ok on the base map supplied from Banzai racing with their harness, haven't changed anything on the map yet.
What things should i check before going to the tuner, to make shure everything is ok with the wiring and general setup of the pfc?
Someone said that i should use the stock NA pressure/map sensor, and rescale the map, because tuning an NA using the 3bar map sensor would be more difficult, is this true? And how would i do that?(please explain in detail)
I've never tried to use an FC MAP sensor with a Power FC, so you're on your own as far as coming up with the scaling for it. The theory is that a 1 bar sensor has better resolution. You could also buy a Bosch or some other brand. You basically have to apply vacuum to it and record the voltage, then punch it into a spreadsheet that curve fits it to a scale and offset value. To me it sounds like a lot of trouble for negligible real-world benefit.
Since your car is n/a, you actually have a lot less prep to do IMO. Usually the big thing that gets the turbo cars on the dyno are boost leaks and boost control problems. In your case, I'm not sure if you are using VDI or auxilary port solenoids. You want to make sure those valves are operating correctly. Either they are forced open because you decided to do it that way, or they are working correctly with whatever means you are using to control them (stock or otherwise). Ideally the tuner can play around with the staging of these valves.
It would certainly help to set your timing correctly in terms of the adjustment of the crank angle sensor (so the PFC and timing light match up), but even then that's not too critical on an n/a engine. Basically, warm the engine up and set "Idle IG Control" off in the Commander. Your Commander should read -5L -20T timing. Now check the timing like you would on the stock ECU. Make sure your TPS voltages are reading right.
Now it sounds like you're not actually the one tuning it, but I'll give you the same advice I give everyone else:
1) bring ear protection. don't assume they have it. There's no sense in giving yourself a headache. It accomplishes nothing.
2) don't bring a crowd of people. In a situation like this, you're not here to put on a show. It just complicates everything to have people around, subtly applying pressure to the tuning process.
3) bring a USB flash drive. Ask the tuner to give you the files from the dyno runs (on a Dynojet it is .drf , but I don't know what dyno this is).
4) Make sure you have the startability and driveability tuned, especially tip-in.
Since your car is n/a, you actually have a lot less prep to do IMO. Usually the big thing that gets the turbo cars on the dyno are boost leaks and boost control problems. In your case, I'm not sure if you are using VDI or auxilary port solenoids. You want to make sure those valves are operating correctly. Either they are forced open because you decided to do it that way, or they are working correctly with whatever means you are using to control them (stock or otherwise). Ideally the tuner can play around with the staging of these valves.
It would certainly help to set your timing correctly in terms of the adjustment of the crank angle sensor (so the PFC and timing light match up), but even then that's not too critical on an n/a engine. Basically, warm the engine up and set "Idle IG Control" off in the Commander. Your Commander should read -5L -20T timing. Now check the timing like you would on the stock ECU. Make sure your TPS voltages are reading right.
Now it sounds like you're not actually the one tuning it, but I'll give you the same advice I give everyone else:
1) bring ear protection. don't assume they have it. There's no sense in giving yourself a headache. It accomplishes nothing.
2) don't bring a crowd of people. In a situation like this, you're not here to put on a show. It just complicates everything to have people around, subtly applying pressure to the tuning process.
3) bring a USB flash drive. Ask the tuner to give you the files from the dyno runs (on a Dynojet it is .drf , but I don't know what dyno this is).
4) Make sure you have the startability and driveability tuned, especially tip-in.
The tuner is a friend of a friend, who bought himself a dynocom dyno. He haven't mapped alot of cars, but he did map my friends FD with a 13B REW single turbo.
Do you have any advice/tips i should share with the tuner?
I am on the yahoo pfc group, and have downloaded "chucks notes", and trying to read and understand the best i can, but it's hard to understand tuning when i have never done it, or seen it get done.
Do you have any advice/tips i should share with the tuner?
I am on the yahoo pfc group, and have downloaded "chucks notes", and trying to read and understand the best i can, but it's hard to understand tuning when i have never done it, or seen it get done.
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