Power FC Ign-1a breakup @5500rpm
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Ign-1a breakup @5500rpm
Recently changed out my stock coils on my FD for aem smart coils and getting bad ignition breakup at around 5500rpm. I am running a PFC. Can anyone help with the recommended settings/dwell times etc?
#2
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (10)
Unrelated to the PFC, but to throw it out there:
These coils are known to break up without a power ground run directly to battery,even if the battery is relocated to the rear bins; a chassis ground for the main power is typically not suitable. Are your logic grounds connected to the respective rotor housings the coils are firing into?
These coils are known to break up without a power ground run directly to battery,even if the battery is relocated to the rear bins; a chassis ground for the main power is typically not suitable. Are your logic grounds connected to the respective rotor housings the coils are firing into?
#3
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Unrelated to the PFC, but to throw it out there:
These coils are known to break up without a power ground run directly to battery,even if the battery is relocated to the rear bins; a chassis ground for the main power is typically not suitable. Are your logic grounds connected to the respective rotor housings the coils are firing into?
These coils are known to break up without a power ground run directly to battery,even if the battery is relocated to the rear bins; a chassis ground for the main power is typically not suitable. Are your logic grounds connected to the respective rotor housings the coils are firing into?
I learned this the hard way---- run a nice thick (4 gauge minimum) ground direct to the battery, and if your battery is relocated I recommend a very thick main ground (talking 0/1 gauge).
After the above 'mods' (ha) I've been happily ripping around the streets at 20 psi and 8200 rpm shifts with zero breakup. The Iridium heat range 10 spark plugs are helping too
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I ran a really nice thick wire directly to the middle iron too..I also grounded the Engine to the Chassis and ran a separate cable to the battery when I installed the battery to the rear bin.
The battery TOO had a cable going to the chassis,so really the whole system had a giant series of Grounds.
Chris Ludwig suggested that I do not ignore the Grounds..even though you may think a chassis ground may suffice the coils will Thrive with the BEST grounds it can get at any given time..so basically just look at the wiring that AEM gives you and go nuts..
The battery TOO had a cable going to the chassis,so really the whole system had a giant series of Grounds.
Chris Ludwig suggested that I do not ignore the Grounds..even though you may think a chassis ground may suffice the coils will Thrive with the BEST grounds it can get at any given time..so basically just look at the wiring that AEM gives you and go nuts..
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#8
Arrogant Wankeler
The important factor is ms charge time with dwell. The crank angle vs rpm allows you to map ms vs rpm. Noone should be using a fixed crank angle dwell but angle mapped to generate close to static charge time or trimmed based on where an engine can run at high load if you want to maximize plug life at idle/cruise.
Last edited by Slides; 02-01-18 at 09:51 PM.
#9
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yup, great advice here.
I learned this the hard way---- run a nice thick (4 gauge minimum) ground direct to the battery, and if your battery is relocated I recommend a very thick main ground (talking 0/1 gauge).
After the above 'mods' (ha) I've been happily ripping around the streets at 20 psi and 8200 rpm shifts with zero breakup. The Iridium heat range 10 spark plugs are helping too
I learned this the hard way---- run a nice thick (4 gauge minimum) ground direct to the battery, and if your battery is relocated I recommend a very thick main ground (talking 0/1 gauge).
After the above 'mods' (ha) I've been happily ripping around the streets at 20 psi and 8200 rpm shifts with zero breakup. The Iridium heat range 10 spark plugs are helping too