vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have some good ones? I'm having trouble hooking up at the track. No wheel hop, just spinning. This is with 235 60 15 MT drag radials. Not sure what else to try. I tried putting rubber spacers in the rear springs. This made my driveability crap and didn't effect my traction. I guess I'll try the camber adjustment bar. But I doubt that will make that much of a difference. These 12.30 time slips at 121 just aren't cutting it!

88IntegraLS

Not bad for "only" 400 hp.

superstock2

iTrader: (9)

its like a supra... 650 hp and it barely breaks into the twelves, except your car is just lighter... wheelie bar?

Nihilanthic

More rubber? You can fit 265's under the rear fenders dude!

Also, yeah, getting rid of negative camber would help get more rubber on the road, instead of up in the air.

Also, I just noticed you're using a GN turbo motor. You should look into that center section swap from a 4th gen Corvette so you can get longer gears. GN turbos dont like 4.10s.

88IntegraLS

Wrinkle wall slicks FTW

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Grannys makes the new solid rear end kit for like $2200. I know that is the right way to do things but thats alot of cash!.

With the old torque converter and less power I netted some 1.5x's and ran a 11.8 at 114. Now Im at 121 and can't break 12's. Kinda depressing.

I had a 275 50 nitto 555r tire before. The guys on the buick boards with the same rx7 swap as me have alot better luck with a taller MT drag radial. They are cutting 1.4x 60's!! They can't figure why I spin so bad... I thought I'd probe the rx-7 guys a little and see if they could help. I try the camber thing. And replaceing the rear struts. My right rear one is making noise.

Keep the ideas coming. The HP #'s are just gonna go up from here...

Nihilanthic

The center section swap using a C4 corvette center section can be done for $1000 or so if you source it cheap enough, just throwing that out there.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

I would swap to a solid rear end setup if I change anythign back there. But before they guys swapped in the dana and corvette diff's they were still getting damn good 60' times.

I just ordered the KYB AGX adjustable Shocks .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

Maybe they will help. Either way I have old worn out shocks all the way around so it can't hurt anything?

LT-x7

I'd go with the dual camber adjusters as opposed to the single bar. I've heard the bar has less adjustment and can be different from side to side.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

really... camber does affect traction in the rear a bit and those tires are far from wide. level out the camber back there and put on some wider drag radials.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

A 275 width tire will clear with the right offset. A good DR (like the Mickey T's) will do a lot. Practicing your driving in the car will also likely do wonders; I can cut 2.00 60' times in my FWD Pontiac on 30K mile old street tires; achieving 1.7/1.8 times should be a cakewalk with proper technique in that car, even with your setup.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Yes I cut 2.0 60's with pep boy 255 futuras on my blown 383 grand prix, but thats a different setup.

I had a 275 50 series nitto 555r dr. It was wider but I had to install rubber spring helpers so the fender wouldn't come down and cut the tire. This also eliminated my spring travel. I cut 1.6's in this car with the 275 nitto setup on a nice track in FLA. Now I'm in podunk kansas and the track sucks! Also not being at sea level doesn't help much.

The problem with "learning to drive" is you can't pedal a large turbo auto car. If U let off the gas you loose all your boost. If I build boost off the line I spin tires right away and eventually hook. This is usually what I do. If I just roll off the line and smash it it flashes the converter spikes 10+lbs of boost and I go sideways....

Appreciate the help though. I'm replacing all the struts with KYB adjustables and ordering a camber adjuster. We'll see....

ramtookrazy

downgrade or huge wing

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

har har...

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like some wrinkle walls and tuning via your stall are about your only options there then. An EBC probably wouldn't hurt either. Also, check your offset, I can fit a 275/50/17 on the back of my car with no fender rolling and no rubbing; just need the right offset wheels.

I also never said you needed to learn to drive, just practice launching the car. It's great you've got experience in other cars; not all of that just transfers to a different platform; no need to get offended.

88IntegraLS

^One of the best statements in opposition to turbo power I've ever read: power delivery is at the mercy of the turbine, not the driver.

The Almighty Cubic Inch prevails, yet again.

toady

On that Note, anyone know off hand how much torque/HP a 4.10 rear end from a 2nd gen can take before it goes Kaboom? Im still puting together my car and thats about the last part of the drive system thats stock.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Depends if it's a TII , auto or manual. An auto TII can take a ton of abuse. Around 600 and 550 ft lb is the the most I've heard of. But it held until replaced. And was replaced for better gearing.

rarson

That's not quite true. If you hold the pedal at half-throttle, you'll still get some boost. Power delivery IS under control by the gas pedal, it just might not be quite as instantaneous as a big V8 (but under the right conditions it can be).

I drive every day like this. If I were to have full boost all the time, I'd be driving off the road, getting assloads of speeding tickets and such. Instead, I only use 5 or 10 pounds of boost or whatever I want at that moment. All regulated by my right foot.

vxturboxv: The throttle is not an on-or-off switch. You can progressively lower boost by progressively decreasing throttle position. I think you just need to launch with the throttle at a mid position and build boost as load increases. I used to slip my clutch this way and it would net me ~1.78 60-fts. Now I've got a 2-step and make ~10 psi at the line, and the first time out, dumping it got me a 1.74 (still need to practice myself).

I'm not trying to criticize, I'm just trying to understand and offer some suggestions.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Always appreciated...

And in daily driing your right! But in 1/4 drag racing I'd like to have the throttle in the on position as soon as teh green light pops. Anything else is just wasting precious tenths of a second!

With my specific combo of parts and retard gearing I build boost to quickly. Lag doesn't exist in my combo. If I let off the gas( even half throttle) it unloads the 3000rpm converter, then if I get back into it it flashes the converter and my boost gauge pegs about 20lbs or so instantly, and I might as well be racing on ice.

If I had a fancy boost controller that limited boost to 10 lbs or so I could switch it up to 26lbs after the launch. This might help. But there are guys with my same setup netting 1.4 60s. Same tires and all. I'm hoping the right rear shock being blown is my major problem. I'll adjust camber as well, maybe try and rig some sort of 2 step boost control while I'm at it.

Thanks for the ideas... keep them coming!

rarson

Yeah, a friend of mine with an SRT-4 had a TurboXS 2-stage MBC rigged up with a magnetic reed switch attached to his shifter. Whenever he was in first, the low-boost stage would be on, and then once he shifted to second, the high-boost would kick in. Obviously you can't do that with an auto, but perhaps a F&F steering wheel button would work (I'm laughing just thinking about it).

"Too soon, junior!"

383Mazda

Hey,

your track's prep is a big deal as well. I had some real jokers running things at a local track one night and they kept making me drive though the water box with street tires on?!?! (I was driving my 86 t-type, and like you know, if you can't launch with boost on a turbo car, you might as well not run at all.) Not only that though, some tracks use more tracktion compound and stuff like that...
You said that guys with your same set up were getting 1.40 60ft times, did they have the same converter too? When I'm racing with normal street tires on my buick I usually bring the boost to about 5 lbs with half throttle, then when I launch I just lift off the break and ease the rest of the way into the gas, by the time it shifts to second I'm floored all the way. The 60ft times still aren't great that way, but the mile an hour will be a little more acurate than if you spinn a lot, and your mile an hour will tell you all you need to know.
Good luck!
brandon
p.s. was it tough to fit the turbo motor in the rx7? I've just got a small block in mine (making about 390hp and 460torque)

383Mazda

oh, and they do make boost level controlers for auto cars... I think you need an electric waist gate though, $$$$ but I've seen other buick guys with them... you can choose what boost level per gear and or rpm all from a little controller inside the car.

Nihilanthic

Its plenty strong enough, its just way too short for a GNX motor. Its great for a rotary or a wildly cammed v8 though!

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Motor was easy. Wiring, charge pipe, and down pipe were a bear. If I was doing it over again I would have went N02 SB all the way.

I can make an adjustable boost controller really easily out of junkyard vac sol.'s I'm working on one now that just has 2 settings low and high. I'll launch in low and use the 3rd gear switch on the factory ECM to trigger a vac sol. that vents boost going to the WG. Should be pretty easy... And very cheap.