Sr20det Fd Q`s
#1
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Sr20det Fd Q`s
ok ok i know, im a bad person, its not and rx7 anymore, god will hate me blah blah blah
ok now that i have that out of the way...
im looking for someone who has made engine and tranny mounts for the swap.
either for ideas on making my own..
or idealy having them make me a set..
if anyone can actualy help instead of the normal "but this other idea is so much better" bantering any help would be nice...
thank you
-Daelen-
p.S. i have seen many pics of fc`s with sr`s but very few of fd`s so also any pics would be nice for referance.
ok now that i have that out of the way...
im looking for someone who has made engine and tranny mounts for the swap.
either for ideas on making my own..
or idealy having them make me a set..
if anyone can actualy help instead of the normal "but this other idea is so much better" bantering any help would be nice...
thank you
-Daelen-
p.S. i have seen many pics of fc`s with sr`s but very few of fd`s so also any pics would be nice for referance.
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
ok ok i know, im a bad person, its not and rx7 anymore, god will hate me blah blah blah
ok now that i have that out of the way...
im looking for someone who has made engine and tranny mounts for the swap.
either for ideas on making my own..
or idealy having them make me a set..
if anyone can actualy help instead of the normal "but this other idea is so much better" bantering any help would be nice...
thank you
-Daelen-
p.S. i have seen many pics of fc`s with sr`s but very few of fd`s so also any pics would be nice for referance.
ok now that i have that out of the way...
im looking for someone who has made engine and tranny mounts for the swap.
either for ideas on making my own..
or idealy having them make me a set..
if anyone can actualy help instead of the normal "but this other idea is so much better" bantering any help would be nice...
thank you
-Daelen-
p.S. i have seen many pics of fc`s with sr`s but very few of fd`s so also any pics would be nice for referance.
#4
600 is not enough
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this **** is so stupid i have 2 post on it...y n the hell would u put the SR20 n an FD??? really i can understand an RB25 or 26 or maybe even a 2JZ...but an SR? it makes less power than a 13b! i would maybe even go as far as saying i would rather hav the redneck exclusive LS1 than an SR!!! Sorry u r ruining a wounderful car
#5
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ok so here is the deal...
i have a bare chassis... meaning no motor or trans
i have an sr out of my 240...
and time...
i could do an lsx swap but love the powerband of my sr, not even considering the 13b.
the RB series is a great motor, heavy but great.
but why not use what i already have?
but to the one person who is giving INFO thank you.
i think tnt (if thats still his name on here) did this swap so if you know him or his car, info on it would be nice
i have a bare chassis... meaning no motor or trans
i have an sr out of my 240...
and time...
i could do an lsx swap but love the powerband of my sr, not even considering the 13b.
the RB series is a great motor, heavy but great.
but why not use what i already have?
but to the one person who is giving INFO thank you.
i think tnt (if thats still his name on here) did this swap so if you know him or his car, info on it would be nice
#6
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this **** is so stupid i have 2 post on it...y n the hell would u put the SR20 n an FD??? really i can understand an RB25 or 26 or maybe even a 2JZ...but an SR? it makes less power than a 13b! i would maybe even go as far as saying i would rather hav the redneck exclusive LS1 than an SR!!! Sorry u r ruining a wounderful car
2jz=dyno queen, more power than needed
rb26=pricey to start with, either need a 25 tranny or lots of mods to the awd tranny, not to mention oil pan and a few other little things.
rb25=if i had one i would do it
lsx=who knows it might happen
13b=not for ME!
sr=rebuilt, fresh, big ole snail, why the F#@K not?
this is not a stock sr.....
#7
600 is not enough
iTrader: (3)
i totally agree with 2jz being a dyno queen but when u can sneeze and make 600hp there isnt **** anyone can say...yes rb is pricey but so is an FD so money isnt the problem ... a built 13b sounds like a ******* monster coming down the road and makes a **** load of power... all im saying is the sr has a shitty powerband and is just 2 me a weak motor! silvias with SR FTL silvias with RB FTMFW. dont let me discourage 2 at all, im just bewildered by the idea my self! GL i guess
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#8
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i get what you are saying, kinda
why dont you like the powerband on an sr? full boost before 3grand, 400hp stock internals, just head work(cams, springs, retainers),bigger turbo and a good tune is all you need
yes the 2jz makes *** loads of power easily, but i dont wanna have to run slicks just to hook up off a red light, just not needed,
also, i dont know the weight of the rb series nor the 2jz, but im guessing heavy(inline six, **** happens) so wouldnt that throw off the balance of the car?
i like to do most of my own work, and just realy dont like working with the rotory.
im not made of money(hence the work with what i have mentality) i got a good deal on the car, the only reason i own it.
why dont you like the powerband on an sr? full boost before 3grand, 400hp stock internals, just head work(cams, springs, retainers),bigger turbo and a good tune is all you need
yes the 2jz makes *** loads of power easily, but i dont wanna have to run slicks just to hook up off a red light, just not needed,
also, i dont know the weight of the rb series nor the 2jz, but im guessing heavy(inline six, **** happens) so wouldnt that throw off the balance of the car?
i like to do most of my own work, and just realy dont like working with the rotory.
im not made of money(hence the work with what i have mentality) i got a good deal on the car, the only reason i own it.
#9
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I have a fair bit of experience with the SR20.. (had several friends with 200's and 240SX's) it's a nice stout little motor!
a foreseeable problem I can think of is the SR has the sump in the front of the motor.. which will probably put it smack dab on the steering rack...
already the SR's are very finicky with their Oil pump/pickup system..
u'd probably need a custom "reverse" sump with an extended pickup to try and combat this problem..
as it would be alot easier then trying to relocate the steering rack.. and running into bump steer issues...
2nd alternative would be to cut the chassis and push the motor back.. (but i personally am not a fan of this method unless it's a drag car with a gutted interior and alum dash)
3rd alternative and best (and most expensive) would be to convert the SR to a dry sump and cancel the oil pan all together...
this will lower the center of gravity, and keep the steering rack where it's supposed to be..
another thing I thought of.. is the steering rack "knuckle" and linkage..
the turbo on the SR is on the same side of the motor as the linkage..
dunno how "large" ur turbo is.. but u'll have to make sure theres no interference between the linkage and the block,headers,downpipe,brake booster etc etc..
since u have a motor and a car..
why not just use a cherry picker and lower in the motor/tranny in to the chassis and see how it all lines up? take some pics from whatever angles u can and post it up
a foreseeable problem I can think of is the SR has the sump in the front of the motor.. which will probably put it smack dab on the steering rack...
already the SR's are very finicky with their Oil pump/pickup system..
u'd probably need a custom "reverse" sump with an extended pickup to try and combat this problem..
as it would be alot easier then trying to relocate the steering rack.. and running into bump steer issues...
2nd alternative would be to cut the chassis and push the motor back.. (but i personally am not a fan of this method unless it's a drag car with a gutted interior and alum dash)
3rd alternative and best (and most expensive) would be to convert the SR to a dry sump and cancel the oil pan all together...
this will lower the center of gravity, and keep the steering rack where it's supposed to be..
another thing I thought of.. is the steering rack "knuckle" and linkage..
the turbo on the SR is on the same side of the motor as the linkage..
dunno how "large" ur turbo is.. but u'll have to make sure theres no interference between the linkage and the block,headers,downpipe,brake booster etc etc..
since u have a motor and a car..
why not just use a cherry picker and lower in the motor/tranny in to the chassis and see how it all lines up? take some pics from whatever angles u can and post it up
Last edited by Ottoman; 10-23-08 at 03:13 AM.
#10
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I have a fair bit of experience with the SR20.. (had several friends with 200's and 240SX's) it's a nice stout little motor!
a foreseeable problem I can think of is the SR has the sump in the front of the motor.. which will probably put it smack dab on the steering rack...
already the SR's are very finicky with their Oil pump/pickup system..
a foreseeable problem I can think of is the SR has the sump in the front of the motor.. which will probably put it smack dab on the steering rack...
already the SR's are very finicky with their Oil pump/pickup system..
u'd probably need a custom "reverse" sump with an extended pickup to try and combat this problem..
as it would be alot easier then trying to relocate the steering rack.. and running into bump steer issues...
2nd alternative would be to cut the chassis and push the motor back.. (but i personally am not a fan of this method unless it's a drag car with a gutted interior and alum dash)
3rd alternative and best (and most expensive) would be to convert the SR to a dry sump and cancel the oil pan all together...
this will lower the center of gravity, and keep the steering rack where it's supposed to be..
another thing I thought of.. is the steering rack "knuckle" and linkage..
the turbo on the SR is on the same side of the motor as the linkage..
dunno how "large" ur turbo is.. but u'll have to make sure theres no interference between the linkage and the block,headers,downpipe,brake booster etc etc..
as it would be alot easier then trying to relocate the steering rack.. and running into bump steer issues...
2nd alternative would be to cut the chassis and push the motor back.. (but i personally am not a fan of this method unless it's a drag car with a gutted interior and alum dash)
3rd alternative and best (and most expensive) would be to convert the SR to a dry sump and cancel the oil pan all together...
this will lower the center of gravity, and keep the steering rack where it's supposed to be..
another thing I thought of.. is the steering rack "knuckle" and linkage..
the turbo on the SR is on the same side of the motor as the linkage..
dunno how "large" ur turbo is.. but u'll have to make sure theres no interference between the linkage and the block,headers,downpipe,brake booster etc etc..
the dry sump just seems way to pricy for my blood right now.
and im not cutting into the firewall and throw off the overall balance of the car.
but hopefully soon i can.
#12
Full Member
As far as the oil pan and pickup is concerned... look at a pan/pickup from the AWD SR from a Pulsar gtir or possibly even US spec FWD NA SR's that are in our Sentras and G20s to see if it is different. Might be able to fenagle it enough to work but chances are that you would still need to at least notch (if not cut out and remake) the front portion of the engine cradle.
From what I have gathered, there are a few SR FD's running around the country. Do a lot of research and track down the owners and talk to them. I am sure they would be friendly enough to atleast tell you what steps they had to take.
From what I have gathered, there are a few SR FD's running around the country. Do a lot of research and track down the owners and talk to them. I am sure they would be friendly enough to atleast tell you what steps they had to take.
#13
I'm glad I'm not the only one thinking of this. I think it'd be a great idea assuming it doesn't require massive amounts of modification to the chassis.
Ignore the ignorant.
Ignore the ignorant.
#14
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i like the idea also.. but well expensive im sure unless yuou can do the custom work yourself.. also how would you route the exhaust? isnt the turbo on a sr on the drivers side?
#17
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God, i hate retarted threads.
OP: Why don't you search?
There are at least a few threads on the first page of this section ALONE covering this topic.
SR, RB, 3s, w/e reciprocal engine swap has already been discussed. The Pros and Cons of each engine too.
OP: Why don't you search?
There are at least a few threads on the first page of this section ALONE covering this topic.
SR, RB, 3s, w/e reciprocal engine swap has already been discussed. The Pros and Cons of each engine too.
#19
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my question is since the sr20 has the turbo on the drivers side (us spec) and the us spec fd's have it on the passagener side.. how the heck would you do the exhaust? im only saying cause looking at my fd there isnt much room down there on the drivers side to route much.. and if your lowered like mine is there is even less room.. but regardless you can flame me! i like a sr20 fd idea..
#21
mazda mario
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there was a guy that did this swap in a fc in orlando he was on here when he did it, i saw the oil pan you have get one made or make it yourself and the pick up tube too.... i dont know why you guys say that the powerband sucks on the sr,, my lil bro's s14 sr which has the vtc has alot of power in the lower and upper rpms on the stock t28 and motor, just rasied boost to 13psi and up the fuel you are easliy looking at 300 whp on bolt-ons.
#24
mazda mario
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dont compare vtech to vtc its two different worlds
v-tec:is an extra lobe on the camshaft which at a given rpm time "5600rpms" and oil pressure &oil temp it switches over to the extra lobe" thats when you hear that pop" for a higher top end.this equal to no torque
nissan' vtc: is a variable timing cam so it retards or advances the cam ,it has a range of 21degs.,, by rpms and air temp and enigine temp so giving it a better wide range of power band ...you dont feel it "pop as you can say"this equal to :the fun starts early as of 2000rpms,..
dont talk if you dont know the difference
v-tec:is an extra lobe on the camshaft which at a given rpm time "5600rpms" and oil pressure &oil temp it switches over to the extra lobe" thats when you hear that pop" for a higher top end.this equal to no torque
nissan' vtc: is a variable timing cam so it retards or advances the cam ,it has a range of 21degs.,, by rpms and air temp and enigine temp so giving it a better wide range of power band ...you dont feel it "pop as you can say"this equal to :the fun starts early as of 2000rpms,..
dont talk if you dont know the difference