Other Engine Conversions - non V-8 Discussion of non-rotary engines, exc V-8's, in a car originally powered by a Rotary Engine.
View Poll Results: pick one plz
1JZ / 2JZ
17
51.52%
RB25 / RB26
6
18.18%
SR20
9
27.27%
VTAKzZZZzz gonna pwn j000
1
3.03%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll

pick an engine: 1JZ/2JZ RB25/RB26 SR20

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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:20 PM
  #1  
sub9lulu's Avatar
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pick an engine: 1JZ/2JZ RB25/RB26 SR20

dont ask why
you know better, just pick one

might not be going LS1
ps. dont give me any of those 13bt / 20b is better, this is engine conversion forum

money is no object
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 10:33 PM
  #2  
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From: Pataskala, Ohio
I voted on the SR20, due to it being light, and easy to get performance out of. Add the fact it will drop into the 7 without dropping the steering rack, or hood clearance issues. In your sig you have 3mm apex seals, and a balanced rotating assembly to 10k rpms, isnt that a counterproductive? Were you running a stock TII turbo too?
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #3  
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I say get a rear sump 2jz and call it a day. Rear sump 2jz's are found in Supras and Soarers, and NOT in ARISTOs. Total cost of project... ~$12,000. Slap a 70mm turbo and make 700whp all day on people on a stock engine.

6spd 2jz front clip... 7000$, AEM ecu...1800$, 70mm...1200$, THE price of pulling on 20b's, LS1's, RB26's...PRICELESS!

You're in Florida, so you probably know how it is going up 700+whp DAWGs.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #4  
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20b
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #5  
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700hp sr20? hummm, doesnt sound safe to me... where the 1j/2j has been done already in a rx7(yellow 'supra-7' FD, and some kid in FL with FC vert).... but i have never seen a good lookin RB-7
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #6  
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20b or 2jz...i suggest these two b/c i want them both...lol
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:08 AM
  #7  
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26b
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:30 AM
  #8  
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Damn, tough call IMO between the 1JZ and the RB25. The 1JZ may be a tad easier since I know there's at least one person that's done it in an FC. The RB25 WILL fit. And the RB26, I wouldn't bother spending the extra money on. The valvetrain in the 26 is a solid lifter setup, which means valve adjustments are a bitch, whereas the 25 uses hydraulic lash adjusters.

With the Greddy intake manifold on the RB25, you can get an Infinity Q45 TB and have a really nice setup that costs a lot less than anything for the RB26, though with the 26, you start off from the get-go with ITBs. The thing is though, I don't think they're worth it. You're going to need the RWD tranny from the RB25 anyway.

Edit: And I think that the height of the 2JZ is going to give you problems... that's why I recommended the 1JZ.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 01:33 PM
  #9  
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This posts looks familiar from somewhere... I feel I have seen it before... Do I have to vote in both places?

I still would support the LS1, it has the most documentation, and don't forget that a built ls1 is not only going to be cheaper but if you throw a supercharger or turbo on there you will still be in the 700hp range.

Another engine you might want to consider is the VG30DETT, they are going a lot cheaper than 2JZ's these days.

You said money is no object though, so if that is true, I'd do something different and go RB26. So I guess that is what I will vote for.
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #10  
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I believe the RB series engine are front sump oil pan like the 2JZ Aristo's, that is why you see so many 240sx with ARISTO 2JZ swaps.

My days of 13bt's are over, they are just too unreliable compare to my 1JZ. My next engine will be a blow thru CARB, GT42-76 V8!
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 01:04 AM
  #11  
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yea i'm the "kid in florida"

platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 04:11 AM
  #12  
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If you're going to go with a 4 cylinder, go 4g63. Otherwise lq4=win.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 06:53 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by TurboII RudeBoy
platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.

Please post pics!!!!
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 08:08 PM
  #14  
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From: So Cali
a 2jz is my vote
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #15  
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From: On De Beach
Originally Posted by TurboII RudeBoy
platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
lol... their you are... i thought you had flowin off the earth with that 1j setup by now... whats good
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Old Mar 12, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #16  
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i voted 2JZ but i own a 492 hp pump gas SR..
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