View Poll Results: pick one plz
1JZ / 2JZ
17
51.52%
RB25 / RB26
6
18.18%
SR20
9
27.27%
VTAKzZZZzz gonna pwn j000
1
3.03%
Voters: 33. You may not vote on this poll
pick an engine: 1JZ/2JZ RB25/RB26 SR20
03-01-07, 10:33 PM
#2
I voted on the SR20, due to it being light, and easy to get performance out of. Add the fact it will drop into the 7 without dropping the steering rack, or hood clearance issues. In your sig you have 3mm apex seals, and a balanced rotating assembly to 10k rpms, isnt that a counterproductive? Were you running a stock TII turbo too?
03-02-07, 08:48 AM
#3
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I say get a rear sump 2jz and call it a day. Rear sump 2jz's are found in Supras and Soarers, and NOT in ARISTOs. Total cost of project... ~$12,000. Slap a 70mm turbo and make 700whp all day on people on a stock engine.
6spd 2jz front clip... 7000$, AEM ecu...1800$, 70mm...1200$, THE price of pulling on 20b's, LS1's, RB26's...PRICELESS!
You're in Florida, so you probably know how it is going up 700+whp DAWGs.
6spd 2jz front clip... 7000$, AEM ecu...1800$, 70mm...1200$, THE price of pulling on 20b's, LS1's, RB26's...PRICELESS!
You're in Florida, so you probably know how it is going up 700+whp DAWGs.
03-02-07, 09:05 AM
#5
Ready Set SideWayz, N.P.U
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700hp sr20? hummm, doesnt sound safe to me... where the 1j/2j has been done already in a rx7(yellow 'supra-7' FD, and some kid in FL with FC vert).... but i have never seen a good lookin RB-7
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03-02-07, 11:30 AM
#8
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Damn, tough call IMO between the 1JZ and the RB25. The 1JZ may be a tad easier since I know there's at least one person that's done it in an FC. The RB25 WILL fit. And the RB26, I wouldn't bother spending the extra money on. The valvetrain in the 26 is a solid lifter setup, which means valve adjustments are a bitch, whereas the 25 uses hydraulic lash adjusters.
With the Greddy intake manifold on the RB25, you can get an Infinity Q45 TB and have a really nice setup that costs a lot less than anything for the RB26, though with the 26, you start off from the get-go with ITBs. The thing is though, I don't think they're worth it. You're going to need the RWD tranny from the RB25 anyway.
Edit: And I think that the height of the 2JZ is going to give you problems... that's why I recommended the 1JZ.
With the Greddy intake manifold on the RB25, you can get an Infinity Q45 TB and have a really nice setup that costs a lot less than anything for the RB26, though with the 26, you start off from the get-go with ITBs. The thing is though, I don't think they're worth it. You're going to need the RWD tranny from the RB25 anyway.
Edit: And I think that the height of the 2JZ is going to give you problems... that's why I recommended the 1JZ.
03-02-07, 01:33 PM
#9
53.6%/46.4% - Crap!
This posts looks familiar from somewhere... I feel I have seen it before... Do I have to vote in both places? 
I still would support the LS1, it has the most documentation, and don't forget that a built ls1 is not only going to be cheaper but if you throw a supercharger or turbo on there you will still be in the 700hp range.
Another engine you might want to consider is the VG30DETT, they are going a lot cheaper than 2JZ's these days.
You said money is no object though, so if that is true, I'd do something different and go RB26. So I guess that is what I will vote for.
I still would support the LS1, it has the most documentation, and don't forget that a built ls1 is not only going to be cheaper but if you throw a supercharger or turbo on there you will still be in the 700hp range.
Another engine you might want to consider is the VG30DETT, they are going a lot cheaper than 2JZ's these days.
You said money is no object though, so if that is true, I'd do something different and go RB26. So I guess that is what I will vote for.
03-02-07, 01:50 PM
#10
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I believe the RB series engine are front sump oil pan like the 2JZ Aristo's, that is why you see so many 240sx with ARISTO 2JZ swaps.
My days of 13bt's are over, they are just too unreliable compare to my 1JZ. My next engine will be a blow thru CARB, GT42-76 V8!
My days of 13bt's are over, they are just too unreliable compare to my 1JZ. My next engine will be a blow thru CARB, GT42-76 V8!
03-04-07, 01:04 AM
#11
Post count is over rated
yea i'm the "kid in florida"
platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
03-04-07, 06:53 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by TurboII RudeBoy
platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
Please post pics!!!!
03-12-07, 03:07 PM
#15
Ready Set SideWayz, N.P.U
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Originally Posted by TurboII RudeBoy
platinum presto why you act like you don't know who i am......
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
anyways any rear sump 1j or 2j will work in an fc.rb's kinda hard unless you cut up the subframe.i got a 1j head on a 2j block in my vert. a full 2j set up will fit you might have to cut some of the bracing under the hood, depending on how low and close you make your mounts i have about 2 1/2 inches clearance between my motor and my steering rack.
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