SO FINALLY THE MOTOR IS IN!!!!!!!! it dont run yet...but its in...that 1/2 the battle...lol

Pics
the Motor


Test fitment



Started boxing in the old crossmember i cut out



New custom mounting plates



Checking hood clearances


More boxing in the old member




The mounts...there chromoly steel with poly bushings with metal sleeves :twisted:



Tranny Mount


AND FINALLY ITS IN!



and notice the hood closes without notching the hood supports


And an extra brace for rigidity and to protect the oil pan


BTW...for anyone who cares, the motor was offset 1 1/2 inches to the passenger side since the fuel tank sits on the driver side, and so do i...so it was to offset the weight. Also Gives more clearance for a tubular turbo mani....Comments welcome

I was asked originally what i was going to do about going around the original FB fuel...well im ditching the stock fuel pump, and have mounted a walbro 255LPH external fuel pump on the firewall.

Also...I've decided to go the uncoventional route. Instead of buying a 9" or 8" rear, im having a 2wd Toyota truck rear end put in the car. Also, im eliminating springs and struts all togather, and going with a full coilover setup all around (rears will be attached to the cage thats being installed.)

 

I hate to question you but... why a toyota rear, they are at most as strong as a mazda rear.

You know a s13 cross member fits into FB's so why go through the trouble of how you did the lower control arm mounts?

The fuel pump needs to be mounted as close to the tank as possible.

From what I can see in the pics, the engine is solid mounted to the frame?

It's looking good, I just want to know your reasonings behind your set up. Wiring should be simple sense you've already have done SR20' conversions. No more difficult.

I found that my alt. for my sr20det was fubard, one should be in today (about to go pick it up now) and I can finally run my FB further than around the yard.

 

the mounts are not solid mounted, they can be taken completly out, the mounts are bolted to the block, and the poly bushings are bolted to a tab that can be take out also. The Toyota Rear (the one i speak of) is actually very strong, it is a 8" diff, with 30 spline axles.

Why would you think the fuel pump needs to be close to the tank? just curious. I know the cross member will fit, but this looks better also gives me the room to customize the way i wanted the motor to sit.

 

the pump should be close to the tank because most electric pumps are "pusher type" pumps. this needs to be close to the tank and is best to be below the fuel level in the tank. this ensures the pump always has fuel available to push to the front. try it the way you have it but if you notice vapor lock this is the likely culprit. I like the setup and the motor mounts are very similair to the ones I built for my VG30DE swap. I think the only drawback is the exhaust on the drivers side. this is the one thing I always liked about the rotaries. have fun

 

Thanks for the heads up and info on the fuel pump I will try it my way, if i do experience vapor lock i'll be sure to let everyone know.

Also, im not worried about the exhaust due to, you figure everone that does a muscle car, usually does and X pipe mid car under the driveshaft also, so it will pose no problems...

 

I agree on the exhaust. my V6 has the exhaust on the driver side as well, but I do like it on the passenger side. looks like a nice install.

 

Beautiful welding/fabrication work! I only wish my welds looked that good. My only question is why you picked that particular engine?

 

had it laying around...lol

 

driftking777,
You have engines laying around? Lol thats kinda like me. I have to get a new digital camera so I can post pics of my FB with a LT-1. Spent under 1,000 on the entire conversion. Anyways love the fab work wish ya were closer,Shawn

 

LOL...well at this specific time, i no longer have any motors laying around besides the old 12A...i had this ka24de, 12A, and a ka24e motor laying around along with a bare bone 4 bolt main LT-1 block...but everything is gone now

 

Did you get it running yet? I'll never forget the day I got my LT-Rx? running,loved the V8 sound. Its kinda like that Borla exhaust ad in sports car mags..."In case of erections lasting more than 4 hours get outta the damn car!"

 

no UNFORTUNATLY i am going to vegas tomorrow, so i saved my last paycheck instead of spending it...lol...

Still need to get a ka24de wiring harness, and some relays...then she should be running.

 

what do u need? i have a s14 parts car!
whodiddy6@yahoo.com

 

thanks for the offer, but unfortuantly i have a s13 motor, and i would have to swap some stuff out to use a s14 harness ect (which is what i need)

thanks anyways though

 

pix are dead! can you give link or email me info.

whodiddy6@yahoo.com

 

brokeback mountain rx-7

 

sorry for the dead pics..i moved them..heres my 2 gallerys of it

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ftking777/RX7/

http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...77/Rx7%20home/

 

Is that true for the FC's? Prolly not but it's worth a try.

 

nice

 

how is the space for the tranny? did you have to bang some metal out of the way. Im doing this swap soon. Is it running yet?

 

why why why man. A ka24 Hopefully its for reliability purposes right. You shoulda put a sr in their if you wanted it to handle or excel better. Man I give you 2 points for effort cuz you accomplished it.
At least your an innovator.

 

late relpy but...no its not for reliabilty sakes, i had a spare Ka laying around and decided to do this. and between the ka and the SR there is very little difference as far as handling or accelerationg (if thats what you meant by excel). Ka's just as easy to coax 400whp out of as a SR...and the cost is the same. I just wanted something different.

To answer teh question above. No the tranny tunnel is fine, i had no issues. only had to make a custom mount for the engine and tranny. the motor combo is the same size as a rotary setup, so even the shifter poked through the shifter hole perfectly.

~Nick