just as the title says. i see where miatas and FD trannies bolt onto the same block. so i guess that leads me to ask if the miata motors can be placed into FDs.

 

With enough money and effort, almost anything is possible. The question is, why?

 

just dont doit

 

im just brushin over a few ideas. the rotary is so fragile from what ive seen and read. hell ive had mine since mid november and the thing is already leakin coolant. just not too sure on this whole rotary thing. i can do piston engines. i would like to rebuild it myself to learn about it, just kinda waitin it out.

 

If you put a miata motor in your 7 you have problems. Im not bashing the miata, I have one for a daily driver, but cmon. A ***** as 4 cylinder in a 3rd gen. You would have to spend five grand on a trubo kit just to make similar power to a seven with all the reliability mods. Save your money for a new motor, treat it right, do all the reliability mods, and the motor will last.

 

Do you have any idea how much I spent to get over 400RWHP with my 1.8L Miata motor? And it still only makes about 290 on pump gas. I havent blown the motor, but I havent driven it much either. 250RWHP out of a 1.8L miata motor and being daily drievable is very tough and expensive to do, and the FD makes almost that stock.

 

Oh really? You have a 400hp miata? Have any specs or info? I have one too, there arent too many of us out there and most of us know each other. I'd love to hear about your set up.


Mine is on the STOCK motor though. Currently second fastest in the country ET and fastest MPH.

I dont know about being tough and not daily drivable...all my project miatas are daily drivers, have been for the past 3 years. With that said, I dont know why you'd put a miata motor in an FD...yes they are reliable and can make power, but I'd go with something else. To the person who said "*****" 4 banger....get a life.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/threefastmiatas

 

bump

i want to know more info on this too. i'm not concerned about hp levels but more with a will it work and price thingy.

 

Someone would have had to have done it already for you to find out the "price thingy", and as I already stated, almost anything is possible with enough money and effort.

 

well i do appreciate the replies. some of u bash the 1.8L miata motor but isnt the FD equal to a 1.3L. like i said, i was just weighin my options knowing that it can bolt to a FD tranny. i figure the simplicity of a turbo piston motor is easier for me to work with and so i thought id post a question about it. once again, thanx for the replies.

 

If you're going to go to all the trouble of swapping in an engine that isn't a direct bolt-up, at least make it an engine worthy of the effort.

 

o yeah, ill just throw in a junkie old V8 like everyone else. good thinkin and very ingenious.

 

Well, it's good to see you're capable of making an educated decision, and you're absolutely right. A modern V8 that effortlessly makes more power naturally aspirated than a turbocharged Miata 1.8L strained to the limit makes absolutely no sense whatsoever.

 

i saw ur V8 thread, i was just givein u ****.

 

If you still want the specs on my 2000 Miata:
Engine
Bored to 2.0L
Ported and polished cylinder head/Intake manifold
JE pistons
Carillo H-beam rods
Adjustable Cam Gears
ARP Main cap studs
ARP Head studs
PCV Valve
Metal headgasket
Tec III Ecu
720CC Fuel Injectors
Fuel rail
Adjustable FPR
Walbro Fuel Pump
MSD Ignition Boost Retard
Aluminum race radiator

Drivetrain
93-95 RX-7 5 speed transmission /w 4.10 Rear end
ACT Street/Strip clutch
9.5# Flywheel

Suspension
KYB AGX Shocks
Flyin miata springs
Flyin Maita big brake kit

Turbo
HKs GT 28/35 Ball Bearing turbo 56T .73 A/R
HKS External Wastegate / Unrouted dump
HKS T25 flange Turbo Manifold for 1.8L
Greddy 2 Row Intercooler
3" Mandrel bent exhaust with Magnaflow muffler

A few more things too.

 

what kinda #s does that miata put down???

 

not as much as it should with the $$$ he put into it

 

398 @1.4bar
For dominating prepared class and not being put into modified by putting a rotary in, I think it does just fine.

 

thats still not bad #s considering i bet its more reliable than a rotary.

 

18 pounds isn't too radical on a B series head, but that's a peak number. do you have a torque graph?

and fwiw a GT-R will make close to that on it's stock turbo

that is at 25+ psi

 

If i put anything in a FD it would be Subaru's WRX STi 2.5L flat four. Or maybe the 2.0L with the Tommy Kaira's 2.2L stroker kit. It's not that much bigger than a rotary and you could position it low for good center of gravity. Also, from what i've heard they are pretty much bullet proof engines.

 

::shiver:: spark plugs.

 

some of u guys crack me up. u guys are so dead set on the rotary being the god of motors yet ive seen 100s of threads about guys on their 2nd, 3rd, 4th and more motors.
dont get me wrong, i like my RX7 but it really is a pile of **** with a sweet body on it. even with all the problems i have with mine i still would have bought it.

 

first of if you rebuild your engine and treat it right, you wont be in need of another engine for quite some time. My first 7 had 133k miles on it when the motor went out on it and it was driving just fine. Most of the guys with 3 or more motors in their car, either have money to throw around and abuse the hell out of their motor, or can build them themselves for cheap. I know when I had the TII motor when I had just swapped it on the vert, I used to rev the hell out of it and race it when it was cold and ****, and it still lasted me about 30k miles. It all depends on how you treat your motor. And the thing about rotaries is that for w.e reason you need to tear down the engine just to inspect it. Unlike piston engines where you could take off the head and ****, and if a piston goes bad you could just remove the piston from the oil pan.

sorry for my fugged up gramar but its 3 in the morning and I cant really think, just bored outta my mind.

 

Just FYI, 99.9% of the time, when people are talking about rotary reliability issues, they're talking about FDs or at least turbocharged applications. No one disputes that the naturally aspirated cars are more reliable. They're just not especially fast either.