I'm currently trying to pick out an engine to drop in my FC (non-rotary, non-v8). My original play was to drop an 4AGE silvertop into it with the T50 and call it a day but I've been having a lot of trouble finding any T50's for sale outside of forums (requiring creating an account, meeting minimum post requirements, yadayada)

so I'm wondering what other 4-6 cylinder engines are out there that are inexpensive ($1300 or less for the engine, $1100 or less for trans) that would be suitable for a
Touge N/A build.

things i'm looking into (but wouldn't mind input on)
1JZ(probably turbo since N/A are uncommon)
2JZ/t58
KA20
4age with t58 adapter???

 

Nissan VQ V-6

Aluminum block, 2.0-4.0 liters, forged rods and as much technology as you want to afford depending on which model you choose.

CHEAP

Lots of intakes/parts interchange to choose from and a VERY strong 6-speed transmission available at a good price.

If you have the space available you can hook up with someone that can bid at auctions and bid on complete wrecked 350/370Zs or G35/G37s. If its wrecked, it was running- just check for loss of oil.

Alternately, there should be early VQ35 High Rev engines sitting around as they were replaced under warranty for excessive oil use. BMW would just call it normal oil use, but Nissan has a reputation to uphold.

BUT... you will have to make room for the VQ. Steering shaft/subframe mods I believe are in order and some trickery with coolant lines at the rear of the engine or firewall modification as well.

 

Did I mention bolt on supercharger or twin turbo kits for when you decide to go crazy with it down the line.

 

Sr20det
ca18det
Rb series
...
4g63....
...3sgte
Beams 3sge for n/a
4agze
3mzfe v6

 

There was an Naturally Aspirated SR20 that was pretty bad ***, but I don't know if it commands a high price from its relative rarity...

SR20 Neo VVL 200hp.

 

I can recommend an excellent source of information and engines: Foreign Engines, Inc in Lynnwood, Washington, north of Seattle. I have purchased two RB20DET Skyline front clips from them, plus numerous other parts, and I have friends who have bought engines from them for years. The phone number is 1-800-333-9889. For technical info about what parts are compatible, which engines are suitable for given power etc, ask for Carl, very knowledgeable guy. They have just about every JDM motor in stock, including 1JZ, 2JZ, SR20, and the RB motors.

I recently bought a complete Skyline R32 front clip, complete from front bumper to the instruments, foot pedals, steering column, 35,000 miles, $2,000. I had previously bought one like it and installed in my RX-7. Everyone who has driven that car, including the most dedicated rotorheads, have been very impressed. The RB20s are cheap because everyone seems to want the RB25 or 26. The RB20 makes 215 hp at about 10 pounds of boost, can safely be boosted to about 13-14 pounds with no parts changes. My RX-7 install is detailed here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3936025/1984-mazda-rx-7/

Don't be afraid of the Nissan turbo motors, so long as you are satisfied with the stock horsepower. The SR20DET is also a great motor.

 

Don't be afraid of the Nissan turbo motors, so long as you are satisfied with the stock horsepower.

I would extend this to all production motors. 13BT @220rwhp or 13BREW @270rwhp is dead reliable operating on stock ECU within stock parameters (no FCD etc).

Near stock turbo production engines will still make more useable power than all but the largest displacement NA swaps (LS, VK, 1UZ.)

 

lmao!

 

nobody seems to read anymore, I'm not messing around with turbos. They cost $$$ and add a whole extra level of tuning issues.

 

Well congratulations you have chosen the toyota beams 3sge.... enjoy.

It's harder to tune a built n/a then a turbo more expensive too but if you keep it stock you will be ok..

 

S2000 engine

 

+1 for the beams, I helped a buddy of mine fit one of those blacktop ones in an mk1 mr2 for the rallycross and it was fast! The stock ecu is a bit difficult to use, and not every standalone can run the engine because of the dual vvti, so we used an adaptronic 420 which works awesome. That engine was beat on in rallycross for years, it's been to hell and back but just stayed running strong, put out about 220hp. In the end of it's life it was plowing out blue smoke all over the place, and oil pressure was getting very low, but it was still winning races. We disassembled the engine and the bores were 0.2mm past the wear limit The guy is rebuilding it now, and adding some boost while he's at it, should be fun

 

"nobody seems to read anymore, I'm not messing around with turbos. They cost $$$ and add a whole extra level of tuning issues."

Most people who do the JDM swaps seem compelled to go for high horsepower increases, aftermarket turbos, aftermarket computers, boost controllers, etc, and spend many, many hours fiddling with the mapping of the computer and yes, there are "tuning issues". This can get very expensive.

I installed my RB20DET without any performance mods, and as previously stated, have no intention of increasing the power. We made a slight adjustment of the ignition timing, and a small tweak to the throttle position switch to smooth out the idle transition, and I have driven it for about 1 1/2 years with no turbo issues.

I was told it is an "orphan engine" here in the U.S. and parts would be a problem. I searched on Craigslist here in Seattle and within a month I came up with a turbocharger that appears to be perfect, removed for an upgrade, plus spare MAF sensor, Cam position sensor, ignition module and a couple of throttle position sensors, all for a grand total of less than $250, so I have a pretty good collection of spares. Except for the turbo, we tested all of these parts on the motor to make sure they are good.

 

today i pulled the trigger on a 95 2jzge from a gs300. engine was running before it was pulled

 

I am going to try the Ford 3.7LV6 from the 2011-2015 Mustang/F150/Explorer.
Another possible swap would be the Mazda Millenia KLG4 W/KLDE crankshaft.
KLG4 features the same split crankcase as the KLDE but doesn't have the forged crank that the DE has. The connecting rods are forged from factory. KLG4 has coil packs vs DE's dizzy. You would need a custom engine to tranny adapter, which sucks. The KLG4 comes in the: Millenia, MPV van(lol) 626 and Ford Probe GT. 190hp and weighs 360lbs
I have the engine dimensions written down as I was considering it over the Ford 3.7 until I learned I needed a custom adapter for the engine-tranny. Good luck
BTW the KLG4 is all aluminum block and heads.

 

i've got a kia alpha II block, 1.6 liter VVT forged rods upgraded bits for strength, and thats all factory with 105k miles... just trying to figure out the manual trans situation for it... ive gone down a path the says the maita trans might work, but this is a 110hp block, i would need to turbo it and then the stock ecu i have won't work... maybe i''ll just make a transverse dune buggy and get the kia 5 speed i dunno...