drcoopster

I'm interested in doing a swap to a 2.3t Ford engine (from an 87 or 88 Turbocoupe) when the 13B in the FC finally bites the dust. Note that it's running wonderfully right now, but I might as well start gathering information.

From what I understand, the 2.3 uses the same mounts as a 5.0 Ford V8 -- is this correct? Will the Granny's kit for the Ford V8 work? Has anyone done this before? I found a few references to 1st-gen 2.3t swaps, but no 2nd-gen swaps.

I don't want to debate whether this is a good swap or that I'm taking away the soul of the car or whatever, I'm just looking for some info.

owen is fat

interesting idea
this has possibly been mentioned on www.torquecentral.com but I'm not sure

wwilliam54

the mounts are a little different as far as the parts that mount to the motor
but the fram mounts are the same

onepointone

i did a swap in a first gen. i never really got it running right and i sold it. it took me almost a year to complete, and i got it to where i could autox it, but it just wasnt what i wanted. theres a guy named randy that i got the idea from. he got his first gen down to 10.88 in the 1/4. his is ALOT cleaner than mine, and his was running right obviously.

ive never heard of anyone doing it in a second gen. i just know of mine, randy's, and a race shop that did one in texas. i can probably answer some of your questions.

drcoopster

How hard was the actual fitting of the engine? Can the cam cover be easily removed while the engine is in the bay? Did you have to fab anything yourself?

Maybe it would be more worthwhile to try and get a 1st-gen instead.

onepointone

you have to bang the firewall back so the motor can sit back far enough to clear the steering linkage. it might be different in a fc because of the steering rack. i never tried to take the valve cover off, but im sure it wouldnt be too bad, minus that i had some coolant hoses running on top of it.

LS1RX7

I put a 2.3 tc engine in my Old Ford Courier truck, man it hauled ***!!!

Make sure you get an engine from a 88 TC, bigger turbo/injectors/MAS the whole bit, BUT don't try to use the 88TC wiring harness its a pain in the ***
get a harness out of a 86 Merkur, it is WAAAYYYYY better, lest crap to remove.

drcoopster

Good to know. From what I hear, the TurboCoupe ECU is the best as well, I assume it is compatible with the Merkur wiring (though some re-pinning, I hear, but that's not a problem).

onepointone

thats what i did. i tried to use the 87 TC harness.. YEA RIGHT.. what a joke... i ended up going to a 86 merk harness, (what the motor came out of)

i recommend going with a megasquirt to run the motor. you can use a stock computer, but why? its going to cost about 75 for a la3(TC computer), or 120 for a megasquirt, and you can tune everything from a laptop. i wish i would of gone that route.

the la3 is the best computer for those engine, but you do have to repin somethings, and ad a ACT sensor, and a integrated relay control module. i just used the merk ecu, and never got around to the megasquirt.

FB II

could you carb a 2.3T? ????

onepointone

i think some of the early 2.3t were carb'd, but i hear they were a pos

wwilliam54

right
i think they were on 80-81 mustangs and were known to grenade

coldy13

Here's a picture I found of a 2.3l turbo in a FC with slicks. I'm planning on putting a 2.3l turbo in my fb soon. I'll put some pics of it up later when I start working on it.

Nihilanthic

Thats a V8 FC with slicks.

I was demonstrating the chassis's ability to hook up. CLOSE... but no banana

That said, theres absolutely no reason a 2.3T couldnt do the same on a similar drivetrain - stalled auto, slicks, and new bushings/shocks on the rear end

Also... the mounts are mostly done. LOL. www.grannysspeedshop.com hence the bolt in thread I created

Anywho, as an engine its great - loves... well, cheap parts or DIY type mods, and its pretty strong. The only real acchiles heel to deal with is the head - porting or the esslinger head would be good options.

However, besdies that, all the other components are easily and cheaply replaced - 40bob makes good intakes and exhaust headers, plus you can easily gut out your own intake to give it shorter runners and more plenum area. Furtermore, getting it rotated and re-welded is not expensive at a shop generally speaking.

And well, FMICS... just go get a powerstroke one or whatever you like, really. standard piping...

Changing out the cam is not very hard (go SOHC) and a good way to bump performance once you start making some real power, and there are many good ones available.

Also, you dont need to go standalone right away - the ford EEC can be tuned to support up to about 300 whp I believe - not quite sure, check wtih turboford.

Also, as far as turbo reccomendations, a used holset that can support some good high pressure has proven itself on that motor. The stock IHI or T3 (depending on year) can take you up to about 195 whp or 210 whp, respectively... with basically instant spool. Theyre TINY turbos! As far as alternatives to the holset... check turboford - way too much infomration to post here, but many T3/T4 hybrids... heh.

As far as the strength of the motor... stock intenals w/ new rod bolts done properly can aparently support over 400 whp. The stock rodbolts are weak to revs much over 6K - the stock motor didnt rev high - it didnt HAVE to. This motor makes power relatively earlier in the powerband with more torque tahn most of the turbo4s I see - and, obviously, relative to a rotary as well.

If you want to make more power, you can, but thats where "cubic dollars" start to appear - the 2.3L is a bang/buck powerplant for the most part, though it is capable of some serious output. If youre shooting for 500 or more Id seriously suggest more displacement just as a matter of practicality.

Either way you cut it, unless you got BIG goals in the future, a 2.3T is a great way to get performance for your dollar and then some - with torque, all the fun of a turbo and even decent gas mileage unless you get a radical cam and/or dont tune it very well

coldy13

Whoops, the forum I took that from said it was a 2.3t and I didn't bother to look close at the picture. There IS two downpipes coming off the engine....

I'm planning on putting a 2.3T in my fb. First the FB is getting tuned with the 12aT, putting in mini tubs and 4 link to replace the rusted out wheel wells the the suspension mount I ripped out launching the car. But 250rwhp just isn't quite enough, it gets 12-15mpg, and any more power than that and it gets real un-reliable with a stock 12a, and it costs too much to build the 12a to 400rwhp anyway.

Nihilanthic

rofl... with 250 whp from a 2.3T you could get 25-30 with proper tuning and the right gearing. LOL.

400 whp from a 2.3T is relatively cheap or easy to do... cheap as in porting your head or easy as in buying the esslinger head for about 1K. :P

But otherwise, cheap turbos and cheap parts for it that are easily available make it pretty simple. The head and management depending on what you get, in lieu of a EEC tuner (which you really should go ahead and get once youre past 300 whp anyway) would likely cost more than the rest of the drivetrain if not the whole car. LOL.

b00sted

Hey guys I came across this thread and felt the need to reply.

The 2.3t is one of the strongest motors produced by ford. The block, caps, and crank with hold up to 600+ whp with no problem. If you want to do over 300 whp, a set of new forged pistons and rods should be put in. Use the e6 exhaust manifold and have it ported...Or use a tubular header, but make sure it's good quality. Gut the upper intake manifold, and port and knifeedge the lower intake. You can use a t3/t4, or I've heard of guys using the cold side off of a Buick t-type on their stock turbo.

As far as cams, the roller cam out of a 2.3 ranger seems to be the best. I know a friend of Joe Morgan's(10 second 2.3t pinto), and he tried a few different cams, but ended up liking the ranger cam the best. It works.

I've seen a stock 2.3t in my buddy's svo run 20-22 psi with nothing more than larger injectors(this is with the stock topmount IC). Ran like hell too. That seems to be the max for the turbo. After that it's just not efficient enough, and the topmount can't cool it enough to prevent detonation.


Here's a few things to look for when selecting an engine. You want an engine out of a manual transmission car. It has a .63 a/r cold housing...The auto cars have a .48, and can't make nearly as much power. If you have the time, and are allowed to, yank the head and check it out. The 2.3 heads are notorious for cracking right around the valves. Find a motor with the e6se exhaust manifold...

Here is a good example for a 400+ hp setup. Went 10.7s in his pinto with this: http://www.turboford.net/faq/joe.shtml



Feel free to PM me or e-mail me(xxbulaxx@gmail.com) with any questions. I'm starting this swap into a FC soon...

Lit

the earlier mustangs that came with turbo+carb were draw-thru. draw-thru sucks. literally. the best solution i've found is that you can buy a plate that allows you to bolt a 4barrel carb to an EFI lower intake manifold. you could even use one of the ported/knife-edged manifolds from 40bob. of course, this is assuming you know how to boost-prep a carb.

Nihilanthic

Why not just build a sealed airbox around the carb instead of trying to set it up to handle boost and putting the boost right up to the venturis? Cheaper and easier...

Or just go with EFI!

coldy13

Because with a box sealing the whole carb, you have to run the fuel lines and throttle cable through the box and still keep it completely sealed.

FB II

wow this came back from the dead! MATTT!!!!! ohhhh noesss s ss ss you are going 2.3... well i have some news as well aahahahha

hit me up, i wanna know how you plan to mount it in there!

coldy13

The 2.3l is still in planning right now. First I'll be getting a wideband, mini tubs, and a 4 link and get my 12aT running great. Then the 12aT setup is getting sold to finance the 2.3l turbo

coldy13

You should call me, I lost your number when I dropped my phone into the sink They replaced it for free though and said it didn't show any water damage.....

Hopefully by the start of summer this is what'll be in my car-

2.3l Turbo, upgraded turbo ~25psi boost
Some special engine internals I'll be doing in class
Megasquirt EFI
Big Injectors
MSD 6a
2.5" stainless straight pipe

It'll have over 400rwhp and weigh about 2200lbs

Nihilanthic

Just FYI, 400 whp can be carried on stock internals rather well. the only reall issue is that the ROD BOLTS dont like to rev much over 6K. Ive seen new rodbolts and totally stock internals take it to 430 whp before. That said, theres no good reason NOT to build it unless youre broke - and if you are, why not get some longer rods while youre at it? 5.5" doesnt put the wrist pin up into the oil rings with the right pistons IIRC.

Id also consider a bigger pipe than 2.5"; and the only thing you really need to replace on it is the head, unless you get it ported to hell. Esslinger has an aluminum D-port 'street' head available that would do just nice, the only downside is its over $1K.

coldy13

I'm trying to get a cheap, reliable 400rwhp. So new/better rod bolts, ported head, cam, maybe bigger valves. How much boost are the stock turbos good for, and how big of a turbo can the engine spool?