turned the key off and car kept running 1971 rx2
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 4
From: alberta, canada
turned the key off and car kept running 1971 rx2
Now before you respond and say there is a problem with my ignition switch keep reading.
turned off the ig switch, heater fan was on before and after turning it off,
did the only thing i could to stop it which was to stall it with the clutch.
as soon as the engine was dead the heater fan stopped along with
the rest of the accessories.
turned the switch to the no position and the heater fan and accessories came on
turned farther to start the motor and all seemed to be ok
tried to turn it off again and it was the same, had to stall it.
its like the ig relay is sticking on (if there is one)
anyone have any ideas?
matt
turned off the ig switch, heater fan was on before and after turning it off,
did the only thing i could to stop it which was to stall it with the clutch.
as soon as the engine was dead the heater fan stopped along with
the rest of the accessories.
turned the switch to the no position and the heater fan and accessories came on
turned farther to start the motor and all seemed to be ok
tried to turn it off again and it was the same, had to stall it.
its like the ig relay is sticking on (if there is one)
anyone have any ideas?
matt
I had the same exact problem with my '79 and '83 rx7's!! When I turned the key back to turn the car off (and took out the key), it just acted as though I hadn't even done anything. Every accessory in the car still worked. Hell, I could have driven the car if I wanted to, except for the steering wheel being locked.
Well, I resolved this by using a Bosch 5-prong relay to switch my coils off and on. (I ordered it for $5 or so from a local pars store--I'll get you the part# if you need it).
First, look for a switched 12V+ under your dash that gets power only in the "ON" position (and possibly during cranking as well). Make sure that it does not get voltage when your key is in the ACCESSORY position. You will use this switched 12V+ source for the switch inside the relay.
When you look on the underside of the relay, you will see the numbers: 30, 85, 86, 87 and another 87.
You will run a wire from your switched 12V+ source to the #86 prong.
The #85 prong gets grounded anywhere on the chassis.
The #30 prong gets a direct 12V+ battery source (I used 10 or 12 gauge wire).
Both #87's are for your leading and trailing coils "+" terminals. (I used 12 or 14 gauge wire)
Now, your car will operate exactly the way it should.
This type of relay basically uses a switched 12V+ source to operate a switch inside the relay to connect the battery power to the 2 accessory prongs (#87's) on the relay, which in this case are being used for the coils.
Technically, you could just use that switched 12V+ source under the dash for your coils, but I think it causes a drain to your accessories and provides a "weaker" spark at your coils. Think about it: one thin *** wire providing power to your coils and a few accessories inside your car................I'll pass.
Hope this helps
Well, I resolved this by using a Bosch 5-prong relay to switch my coils off and on. (I ordered it for $5 or so from a local pars store--I'll get you the part# if you need it).
First, look for a switched 12V+ under your dash that gets power only in the "ON" position (and possibly during cranking as well). Make sure that it does not get voltage when your key is in the ACCESSORY position. You will use this switched 12V+ source for the switch inside the relay.
When you look on the underside of the relay, you will see the numbers: 30, 85, 86, 87 and another 87.
You will run a wire from your switched 12V+ source to the #86 prong.
The #85 prong gets grounded anywhere on the chassis.
The #30 prong gets a direct 12V+ battery source (I used 10 or 12 gauge wire).
Both #87's are for your leading and trailing coils "+" terminals. (I used 12 or 14 gauge wire)
Now, your car will operate exactly the way it should.
This type of relay basically uses a switched 12V+ source to operate a switch inside the relay to connect the battery power to the 2 accessory prongs (#87's) on the relay, which in this case are being used for the coils.
Technically, you could just use that switched 12V+ source under the dash for your coils, but I think it causes a drain to your accessories and provides a "weaker" spark at your coils. Think about it: one thin *** wire providing power to your coils and a few accessories inside your car................I'll pass.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 4
From: alberta, canada
thanks 2Lucky2tha7 but i would sure like to find the cause of this issue
before modding the stock wiring, there has to be a reason this has start to happen.
later
matt
before modding the stock wiring, there has to be a reason this has start to happen.
later
matt
Yeah, I spent quite some time looking for the problem in the wiring harness and most of the time it's in the ignition key tumbler. I would suggest carefully taking apart the ignition tumbler where all the wires are soldered in. (Be careful, there are a few springs and ***** inside, so don't lose them!!!) Clean all the contacts (I used brakleen) and the entire assembly inside and use some dielectric grease for all the contacts and tiny steel ***** and put it back together--(check all the contacts for excessive wear while you're at it. If there is a lot of wear, you can slightly sand down the contacts on both sides for a better and more even contact.
I believe this worked for my '79 rx7, but not my '83. The wiring was just messed up in that car.
Hope this helps.
Brian
I believe this worked for my '79 rx7, but not my '83. The wiring was just messed up in that car.
Hope this helps.
Brian
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,825
Likes: 4
From: alberta, canada
the ig switch was the first thing i thought of when this happened
but this does not explain why the accessories and heater fan turn off
after stalling the motor.
matt
but this does not explain why the accessories and heater fan turn off
after stalling the motor.
matt
Originally Posted by 2Lucky2tha7
Yeah, I spent quite some time looking for the problem in the wiring harness and most of the time it's in the ignition key tumbler. I would suggest carefully taking apart the ignition tumbler where all the wires are soldered in. (Be careful, there are a few springs and ***** inside, so don't lose them!!!) Clean all the contacts (I used brakleen) and the entire assembly inside and use some dielectric grease for all the contacts and tiny steel ***** and put it back together--(check all the contacts for excessive wear while you're at it. If there is a lot of wear, you can slightly sand down the contacts on both sides for a better and more even contact.
I believe this worked for my '79 rx7, but not my '83. The wiring was just messed up in that car.
Hope this helps.
Brian
I believe this worked for my '79 rx7, but not my '83. The wiring was just messed up in that car.
Hope this helps.
Brian
Well, when you were trying to stall the car, obviously you had the key turned to the off position, correct??? Well, as soon as it stalls, the alternator stops turning and somehow the whole "circuit" stops. Don't think about this problem too hard, it's rather simple. Yes, like I said, I had the same exact problem. I would try to turn it off with the key and the car kept running and all the accessories: fan, radio, wipers, turn signals, everything were still working, and I had to stall the car. As soon as it stalled, everything shut off. I can't give you an exact explanation to your problem, as I didn't have a solution for mine, but I do have an answer. Trust me, it fixed the problem.
Brian
Brian
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