DKSA

if i cant get the 13b re it will be the 13b- t series 5 motor then!!! it goes for around the same price as the re

but if i get RE these are my plans, oh and what is blueprinting, keep reading it and never heard of it before, eg blueprinted rotors, e shaft

13b - re
-----------
-stock RE rotors. just for interest, do the s4 rotors fit the re housings?
-RX- 8 stationary gears
-window bearings? can someone please explain, what are the strongest there? the OEM Rx - 8?
-single turbo conversion
-Porting: either leave stock (what power do the stock ports allow) or large street port
-rx- 8 eccentric shaft(how severe is the modding? if big then just re shaft)
-thermal pellet mod for instant oil flow
-oil pump: a MEAN one that can pump WAY more than needed(just for that reliability) any recomendations?
-oil mod to block of oil inlets so the apex seal lubrication isnt done by the motor oil, and build like a new resovoir tank in the engine bay that will hold 2 stroke and then run pipes into where the usual ones would go...(need more help with this idea, pumps etc?)
- more oil/cooling system mods, like widening and enlarging the oil galleries
like this https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/oiling-system-mods-lots-pics-745594/
-Mazda OEM seals or RA seals
-Mazda OEM apex springs
-What is a BULLETPROOD rotor bearing? the RX8 bearing?
-PINEAPPLE RACING HEAVY DUTY WATER SEAL
-VERY light weight flywheel
-a correct size downpipe, HKS?
-branch and zorst 76mm?
-fan mod to make fan run in high speed mode all the time
-silicone vacuum hosing
- Y pipe? explain please
-Hard piping (aluminum or such) instead of the rubbers, intercooler and others etc
- NGK spark plugs (which ones specifically)
-NGK wires THICK
-NEED HELP WITH IGNITION/COILS, knowledge not great there, help with MSD/HKS products? or why do i see alot of guys with 13b setups running the 12A ignition? whats the specialness?
- Management: would LOVE microtech pr haltech, but currently its out of the budget, dont have R10000 ($1400) for that...probably gotech, Mr turbo or dictator..
- what fuel rail mods can i do?
- WALBRO fuel pump, one with more than enough pump
-fuel regulator
-what size injectors? primarys and secondarys?
-AST Modification , whats this involvoe?
-what are all the motors stock sensors like? decent,accurate? or will those need aftermarket?
-and then finally everything cryogenically treated
-ceramic coating?

-i know i am going to have to do some adding of counter weights somewhere as the re comes from an auto box and now putting it to manual?
- a awesome front mount oil cooler
-monster radiator, intercooler



what is the airpump modification?

get a pineapple racing yoohoo belt

should all my o rings and gaskets be in perfect shape, otherwise should one go MAZDA OEM or PINEAPPLE RACING?


ok what have i left out and where have i gone wrong! this is what was currently flowing through my head

2cute

why not use and rb20 then? its substantially cheaper. and shares many of the same attributes with some even better ones than the 25 and 26

DKSA

what things may be better on the RB20, reliability? thats about it, probably not even..it weighs pretty much nearly the same as a RB25 and it cant hold nearly the amount of power a 25 can....and i can get the RE for about the same price if not cheaper than RB20 here.... either way, for the price, i would take a 1JZ over it ANY day...no matter how big a nissan fan i am, im sorry but the 1jz is supreme to it...

but for this project, it is THE ROTARY!!!!!!!!

whereiscarmensandiego

the re is nice but with just changing a few things on a s4 u can easily make the same power. people make 400hp on stock ports all the time.

with all rotory swaps the biggest hurdle and time consuming thing is actually getting the motor and trans mounted. if u can overcome that then the rest is farily easy and straight forward

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Stock oem seals for the win
hurley for the win
RA seals are limited to horse power and there still making the proper seals for high boosting or high horse power motors to hold the numbers
The gasket kit and rebuild kit get it through mazda trix
water o rings i have used the viton water rings from pine apple racing there ******* awsome and work really well with the many motors that i have built for myself and other customers
invest in race bearing for the rotors also three windo bearings for the front and rear stationary gears just allows more luberication on the e-shaft as well as the race bearings for the rotors
have your side irons lapped for clearance and life of the motor
have the rotors lapped for clearance and life of the motor
the reason why you want to lap on the irons is to remove any groves from what may have been caused from the rotors
the reason why you want to lap on the rotors is to avoid little to no contact with the irons and reduce the amount indents when having a high horse power or high reving motor

DKSA

otherwise my setup looks fine?

THanks Teedyrx2!!
how does one lap the irons and rotors, what tool do i use?

DKSA

otherwise my setup looks fine?

THanks Tedyrx2!!
how does one lap the irons and rotors, what tool do i use?

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Call it crazy but mazdatrix and racing beat do these services...Im not sure and im not going to lie to you i don't who does that kind of machine work out there in Africa...Best bet go on the mazda trix website and call and see what they say...here is a link

Mazda trix say this with there lapping

"Anytime an engine is disassembled, the front, center, and rear housings should be lapped flat to remove all wear grooves. Price is per surface - four required per engine. "

here is the link it's toward the bottom of the page and says lapping

http://mazdatrix.com/s.htm

DKSA

ok awesome thanks!!
no we have our rotary guys down here!!
what tools are used in the process?

where can i find myself a nice free copy of a rebuild text or video?

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

a lapping machine...there are two wheels that sping at 360 degrees...it's like it's sanding the groves down flushj

DKSA

i sure my local rotary builders have!!
any media sources recommended to extend my building knowledge?

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

fast fours...ausi

MadChad

Stick to your guns kid. that dude in SD is a ***** I'm tired of his sorry *** every time I look at the threads---MadChad.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

double penetration

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

DKSA

how much should i struggle to get the 13b - re as opposed to the series 4 or 5 13b - t?

how much greater is the motor?

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Im i reading this right?

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

wow...just wow...

jujubing

U should put a 1jzgte on it.....i tell u why its Reliable, reliable, and reliable.... You'll get 24 to 26 miles to the gallon, 300 hp with a front mount and 3 in exhaust, You can drive it daily, hit the limiter and the dam motor doesn't break!!!!!!!! ....................trust me you will not regret it..... i have both a fully built turbo 83 rx7 and a bone stock 1jz 84 Celica and i they feel the same in horsepower but the difference is i don't worry about breaking the motor when i drive the 1jz.....its Reliable!!!!!!!

DKSA

ya 1JZ is an amazing and brilliant motor, but just not going to use it frot his project!!!, it also kind of defeats the point of the car being ultra light!!

its definely going to be rotary!!

GORacing

the actual lapping process is called rotary surface grinding (no relation the actual engine), sometimes known by the name of the machine that does it as Blanchard grinding, most general engine shops do not have it... I have seen some shops use a smaller vertical mill mounted version that looks like a cylinder head surfacing tool...

DKSA

i want capable of power, 4ookw at the absolute max (but 400kw reliably), something that gives instantaneous power and no lag, revs like a ****!!

yeah i know the series 5 give good resultsd, i would take a series 5 overs 4....
they still turboed and they can take boost and make nice power...

but im still waitng to see if i can get the RE, if not its very most likely going to be a series 5

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

its going to be a hell of alot easier to make more power with an RE then a 13b

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

DKSA, I am not insulting you in any way. But I think you need to do a LOT, (A LOT) more research before you even start this project. There is a lot of little things you need to think about, and things like wondering if s4 rotors will fit in an RE housing makes me think that you really haven't done much research what so ever. Sit down, step back, make a list of everything you need and how much everything is going to cost.

Read and find factual information, don't listen to your friends, they are wrong.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Do you even realize what you just said? A RE, is a 13B. 13b-RE. Why do you think it is "hell of a lot easier?" btw? Cause the runners are bigger? Because the rotors are made out of magic ferry dust?

The motor isn't any thing OMG wow special. It is still a 13b, 1.3 L, with slightly larger runners then the FDs REW. I own a 13b-RE, and I do think that they are over rated. Yes I said it.

The stock RE primary ports are smaller than a s5 t2. You could port out an s5 t2 plate to be equal to the stock secondary ports on the RE. It's not that special.

(and omg the exhaust ports on the stock RE, dont get me started)