My SC Wagon project I've been hiding
that motor looks hot!!!
10-29-06, 10:54 PM
#28
The General RE
Jeff20B your supercharger setup seems like a good candidate for Alcohol/Water Injection. You could use the simple old school method of boost pressurized bottle with a dip tube feeding an orifice above the carb. This is alot less expensive than an in manifold setup since you won't need a chemical resistant demand pump, pressure switch, or solenoid. You could mount the nozzle in you air cleaner cover such that it shoots right down a primary barrel with an $4 misting nozzle from http://www.mcmaster.com. Water may not mist as well with only 10psi, but it will vaporize once the blower gets it's lobes on it. Then you can try more boost, but probably shouldn't. Maybe more timing instead. Or leave settings the same and have a generally safer setup. Hot intake is bad, UhmmKay.
What type of AI setup are you using 84Stock?
What type of AI setup are you using 84Stock?
10-30-06, 09:16 AM
#29
I use a snow performance boost activated setup. It can allow for a smaller pulley to produce more boost but the main benefit was being able to add more timing and make a noticeable improvement in driveability. It "has" to be a very fine spray under high pressure, to large of droplets would be like tossing pebbles into the charger. This apring I will be relocating the injector below the charger where I believe I will see mroe benefit. Also toying with a nitrous fogger setup as well (just 50hp).
10-31-06, 03:21 PM
#32
Wow, you guys have been extremely helpful. I only wish it was my car. 
This thing has got to be reliable enough for my brother to move with it for school in a couple months. It's a few states away so I can't be there to hold his hand so I'll need him to assume responsibility. He relies on my expertise, which is sorely lacking from reading what you guys have done, or are thinking about doing. My mind is solely on other projects right now. That's why I haven't updated this thread ina few days.
I guess the next step is to get a calibration kit from Summit and start playing around with meetering rod springs etc. Right?
This thing has got to be reliable enough for my brother to move with it for school in a couple months. It's a few states away so I can't be there to hold his hand so I'll need him to assume responsibility. He relies on my expertise, which is sorely lacking from reading what you guys have done, or are thinking about doing. My mind is solely on other projects right now. That's why I haven't updated this thread ina few days.I guess the next step is to get a calibration kit from Summit and start playing around with meetering rod springs etc. Right?
11-01-06, 04:43 PM
#33
No calibration kit necessary. Get a carter manual from the local speed shot, you'll learn lots. It is soooooooooo easy to tune and edelbrock, most important thing though is when pulling off the top don't lose any of the tine clips from the linkage. i recommend using magnetic needle nose pliers. I can do a jet change in minutes with no fuel loss.
11-05-06, 01:19 PM
#35
84, I almost lost the accelerator pump clip the other day. I see what you're talking about.
My bro says it goes lean at light throttle sometimes and other times it doesn't. It might be influenced by the electric choke.
Judge, thanks. Nope on the rear hatch glass.
My bro says it goes lean at light throttle sometimes and other times it doesn't. It might be influenced by the electric choke.
Judge, thanks. Nope on the rear hatch glass.
11-05-06, 01:49 PM
#36
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
84, I almost lost the accelerator pump clip the other day. I see what you're talking about.
My bro says it goes lean at light throttle sometimes and other times it doesn't. It might be influenced by the electric choke.
Judge, thanks. Nope on the rear hatch glass.
My bro says it goes lean at light throttle sometimes and other times it doesn't. It might be influenced by the electric choke.
Judge, thanks. Nope on the rear hatch glass.
11-05-06, 08:42 PM
#37
Get your fuel curve dialed in jsut about right and then get the step machined out of the metering rod by a jeweler to a smooth but short taper and it'll be absolutely smooth, that lean spot will disappear and you'll need even less of an accelerator pump shot.
