Heres a dumb ? for you guys.

On the stock 12a in the 73, mounted to the coils are two (what looks to be ceramic) plates that the coil wires attach to.

Is there a way to update or remove these i think they are causeing the no spark issue im haveing.

No spark what so ever!!!!!
Coils are good and caps and rotors are good.

please help guys.

 

also does can you replace the hydraulic system with FB parts


IE.
Brake master
Clutch Master
Clutch Slave


Will they bolt in?????????????????????????????????

 

What ignition are you using now? Do you have the original twin distributor engine? Those ceramic looking parts are ballast resistors and if you are using a distributor(s) with points, then you need them. If you are using an electronic distributor, then you need to bypass them.

 

It still has the dual distributer's but they have rotors not points.

If there is a write up to switch the ignition system to electronic pleas post a link.

Otherwise any suggestions would be great.

 

If you change the front cover to a single distributor, you can update to electronic ignition. Get these from a donor 81-85 RX-7.

 

Hello
off the subject, post pictures of the wagon on the Old School thread!!
please!!!!

 

Cool thanks for the info guys.
And yes ill post picks

 

All 1st gen and earlier rotary ignitions have rotors in the caps. The points are underneath the rotor. Did you pull the rotor and look underneath it? Rotors were eliminated with the introduction of the cas dizzy in the 2nd gens.

 

I never even thought to look under the rotor.
O well its still not getting power to the coils. i think i may have to rewire the hole thing.

 

Well, before you start tearing into the wiring, here's a link to the older FSMs that aren't listed in the archives. You might consider joining Vintage Rotaries and asking for help there. Plenty of old rotorheads and old school rotary experience there.

http://www.vintagerotaries.org/index.php?showtopic=38

 

Trochoid You Rock
I Vote For You To Be A (MODERATOR)

Then maybe you could make your name caps!!! LOL

TROCHOID THE MODERATOR........NAAAAAAAAAAAA

 

Having my user name in lower case was intentional, I prefer showing knowledge instead of ego.

 

i know, and i still think it would look better. but your right.

Also mazda cant get the ballast resistor anymore if there a place i can buy one new???????

 

I don't have any new ones but I've got a pair of good used ones.

 

what do you have to have for them?

 

Well i got everything worked out and the has not run in 15 years.
But i got it started and it runs great, almost like it has never stopped runing.
Thanks guys for all your help.

 

Well i got everything worked out and the has not run in 15 years.
But i got it started and it runs great, almost like it has never stopped runing.
Thanks guys for all your help.

There is only one problem. It smokes alot i dont know if its a big issue but i let it run for 15 min. and it filled my shop with white/grey smoke!
It also had oil comeing out the tail pipe but we did pour a quart in the intake to make sure the seals and springs were not rusted. the oil stopped comeing out after ten minutes but it still smokes.

Any ideas??

 

Priming the engine (oil thru carb) will smoke for a while, say no more than 10 minutes of straight idling. But in your case, if it continues to blow smoke, its bad news.

 

What do you think?
Side seal?

 

hydro? the cluch master and slave will bolt in, but you also need to use the whole line from the fb, rx-3 line is different at connection, brakes are a whole new race, the booster is a problem.