This is a thread about installing a TII transmission in old school cars and should be a sticky. There is a lot of I don't know's regarding this issue and I have spent the last week solving this. This mainly concerns bellhousing, flywheel, clutch, starter compatability. If you guys have any other things to add feel free.

I just did a TII trans. swap to my 12a motor with 225mm flywheel and here's how to do it. You need an old school pre rx7 bellhousing that is removable. I used the most common rx4. You install the rx4 bellhousing to the TII trans. Note- The TII trans. bellhousing has two extra holes, you just do not use these when installing the rx4 bellhousing. Next you have to buy the Racing beat clutch disc that is 225mm and has the TII spline pattern. This will allow you to use your stock flywheel and pressure plate sizes. Next up is the starter. You have to use a pre rx7 starter. RX3 or rx4. I bought mine from a local auto parts store for a rx4. Don't be fooled by people who tell you that you can use a first or second gen starter. You can get it to work but you will have to grind the **** out of the bellhousing/starter- this is the wrong way and what I call "Micky Mousing it". Note- When using the old school bellhousing the trans. will be tilted to the drivers side. A custom trans. mount will have to be made and to fit the shifter in the stock location you have to shorten the shifter rod. There are plenty of threads that go over this.

If you don't like how the trans is tilted then the only other option you have is to use the factory TII bellhousing/trans. But you have to use all TII parts. You cant use the stock TII flywheel because then your engine will be out of balance. So you have to use an aftermarket TII lightened steel or aluminum flywheel and use the automatic rear counterwight for your year engine/rotors. Then you have to use TII clutch/pressure plate and starter/slave.

I think that's it. Any questions or additions feel free. I wish I had all this info when I started to do this a week ago. So..... your welcome. hehe.

 

Thanks Jarrett! When the PP goes in...this may need to be done.

 

yup me and jay are doing the same projects

 

Mickey Mouse, not Micky Mousing it. Get it right!!!

 

I cant join the bandwagon...I got many spares before I use the S5 TII trannies.

 

Any clearance issues with the clutch fork hitting the trans. tunnel? Or did you have to use the good-ole "Mighty Thor" hammer to the tunnel to create clearance? Something i'm trying to avoid doing and refuse to resort to. Can you post some pix? Nonetheless, good info. and thanks Jarrett, def. sticky material.

 

nope no problems at all...I had done this same swap in my duce two years ago...If you go to my turbo project thread in my sig. i have the same setup as well in my SA...Running 12a irons 13b gsl-se housings with a rx4 bell housing hooked up to a Turbo II tranny...no clearance issues...

 

No problems with the shift fork, but for my rx2 I had to shave the ears off the
original trans. mount brakets that are welded on the insides of the trans tunnel
for clearance. You may not need to do this with an rx3. And the only reason I had to do this is because with the rx4 bellhousing the trans. is tilted. If you use all TII parts then the trans. will fit right in with no cutting.

 

UltimateJay, thanks for the info. You've been on a roll with all kinds of info lately!

Quick question for anyone with experience who's tried the RX4 bell housing to TII tranny vs. just using the whole TII transmission (bell housing and all). Is there any space savings advantage one way or they other?

I know a lot of the old school rotaries have smaller transmission tunnels and sometimes when upgrading from 12A to 13B the tunnel can be a problem. I thought some of the cars that came with an OEM automatic transmission had a wider tunnel but that could all be urban legend too.

 

You will have more room if you use the whole TII trans.- meaning TII trans. with TII bellhousing. This is because it will fit straight in the trans. tunnel instead of at an angle with the rx4 bellhousing. I'll post some pics of my complete setup when I get the trans mount made and bolted up so you can see what I am talking about.

 

old school with auto tranny has a wider transmission tunnel than the M/T.

 

^Cool. Thanks UltiJay and Wacky. Pretty much what I was thinking but wanted another opinion.

Any weight savings going with the RX4 bell housing route? Guessing it would be minimal at best. Probably save a little if you get the tail shaft shortened, huh?

I'm torn what tranny to use in my Two since I can get great deal on one of the old 5 speed quick ratio transmissions (from the old RWD 626). I also have a low mileage 1980 RX7 5 speed and a S4 TII tranny. I'll be keeping the RX2 N/A but undecided so far about what kind of porting and if I'll do 13B or keep it 12A. Will the quick ratio tranny hold up well to crazy ported NA 13B? If so I could save the TII tranny for REPU when I boost it.

 

I several trannies which ranges from RX-2 to SP to Cosmo including all generation of RX-7s including TII. I havent had a chance to further investigate if they is any difference between the old school bellhousings. But thats next in line (hopefully).

With my RX-3's, I ditch the 5speed SP and Cosmo trannies. Im using GSL-SE and a modified Miata 5 speed trannies. I didnt bother to shorten the remote shifter on either cars as I prefer the shifter to be closer to me (I hate extending my arm just to shift). Im using 13-B monster streetports with 4.44 on both (the 75 had a 4.78). So far, these trannies are able to hold-up. If I ever move up to bridge or turbo, they I may consider using a TII.

 

Thanks Wacky. I was thinking a TII tranny might be a good idea on a bridge port, sounds like you and UltiJay agree.

Wacky, any experience with those old quick ratio trannies and what's the rear end ratio on a '72 Deuce? That Miata setup sounds pretty sweet too.

-Vince

 

most old school came with 3.7 or 3.90 or less. if you upgrade to a miata 4.10 gears, you wont be able to feel the difference. Just look for a kia sportage (pre-97 are 4.44; post 97 = 4.78) or mazda pickup 4x4. you need the front diffy. they are at least 60% less than RB price.

just find an early miata tranny and swap the FB's tailshaft along with bellhousing and trim the input shaft. they are newer so they should last longer than the older trannys. Im only holding on to my old school trannies for show and tell. price on a miata tranny aint that bad specially during the 50% off sale at the junkyard on holidays like this weekend.

 

Sorry to bring up an old post. I'm actually in the process of doing so; however, I'm running into 2 issues.

1) Bought the 225mm Disk from the TII but this is a tab bigger than de Pressure plate (about 3-5MM) and also fits very tight in the flywheel, it fits but its tight. Is this how it is supposed to be?

2) Driveshaft: So I have a 9inch ford rear end with a custom driveshaft, now on the tranny side it has the original Yoke from the 12a tranny that uses clips on the u joint and welded into the custom Driveshaft. the Yoke that came with the TII its press-fitted so that will not work, What did you use for the driveshaft? Some guy said I could use a slip yoke and replace the end on my driveshaft. I spoke to the driveshaft shop and they are not quite sure if that would. workNorthern Drivetrain, LLC: Powertrain Industries 2603-25

Thank you in advance. any info is greatly appreciated.