1976 Cosmo restoration....finally
12-18-13, 01:48 PM
#26
DGRRX
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Well, looks like the Cosmo isn't going to DGRR, or anywhere soon. After taking it to a friends shop, and digging deeper into the front end, it needs both front frame rails. From the firewall forward.
He can't build them, and I can't find any. So, until I learn to weld, and then can make my own, this is going to be stuck in a shed somewhere I guess.
Awesome.
He can't build them, and I can't find any. So, until I learn to weld, and then can make my own, this is going to be stuck in a shed somewhere I guess.
Awesome.
01-02-14, 05:08 PM
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Small update. Engine is torn down. Was in great shape, just some carbon build up. Apex seals are even in spec!!
Check out the vid my friend made. Lol.
Check out the vid my friend made. Lol.
01-06-14, 11:53 AM
#33
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I didn't make the vid, a friend did. I'm OK with the GNR theme, even though Axl is a giant douche.
Anyway, back on topic.
4 months is longer than we usually have to complete a project around here. When Mel's 'Racecar' SA was built, it was started in February, and finished in April, right before DGRR. And it needed EVERYTHING done!!!
Anyway, I think I have secured an FC subframe. Let the fun begin.
Anyway, back on topic.
4 months is longer than we usually have to complete a project around here. When Mel's 'Racecar' SA was built, it was started in February, and finished in April, right before DGRR. And it needed EVERYTHING done!!!
Anyway, I think I have secured an FC subframe. Let the fun begin.
01-11-14, 10:17 AM
#35
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I'm very interested to see what you end up with. I've already held an FC subframe up to my Cosmo and so far it looks like EVERYTHING interferes. Steering rack hits the oil pan and engine crossmember. Moving the engine crossmember and notching the oil pan (or maybe an FC pan) is an option and something I'll need to look into when I get into that area of the project. Just that moving the engine crossmember kind of sucks. Engine needs to be supported in its present location (a bar bolted to the strut tops and somewhere on the engine...) then the mounts need to be moved to the FC subframe or a new mounting bar made.
I'm really waffling between going complete custom front subframe using some kind of hot-rod kit, simply retrofitting FC ball joints and spindles onto the Cosmo control arms (thus retaining the Cosmo subframe) then adding a steering rack, or fitting the entire FC subframe.
I'm really waffling between going complete custom front subframe using some kind of hot-rod kit, simply retrofitting FC ball joints and spindles onto the Cosmo control arms (thus retaining the Cosmo subframe) then adding a steering rack, or fitting the entire FC subframe.
01-11-14, 10:23 AM
#36
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I'll let you know how it goes. My fabricator doesn't think its a big deal, and I trust him. He said something about changing how the engine crossmember mounts, and I have plenty of oil pans to play with.
Worst case scenario, i use the FC mounting position.
Worst case scenario, i use the FC mounting position.
01-21-14, 06:43 AM
#38
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My rear axle plan, isn't going to work. That bitch was wayyyyy too wide.
So, going GSL-SE with a 5 lug conversion.
Stay tuned, still collecting parts.
So, going GSL-SE with a 5 lug conversion.
Stay tuned, still collecting parts.
01-30-14, 02:23 PM
#39
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With all these Cosmo/Rx5 projects going on I feel the need to decide what to do with my green one...
/Magnus
Keep up the good work guys! I might learn something!
/Magnus
Keep up the good work guys! I might learn something!
Last edited by Magnus Berglund; 01-30-14 at 02:24 PM. Reason: trying to fix imagelink
02-20-14, 02:45 PM
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The engine is cleaned up and about to be rebuilt. Carb is rebuilt, and I've been piddling with things here and there.
Replacing fuel lines, fixing surface rust, putting the interior back together, etc. I also have removed nearly all the A/C components, except for the evaporator. Not sure if it will be possible to pull the lines without cutting them.
Once of the best repairs has been the steering shaft bushing (behind the steering wheel and combo switch). No more slop in the steering wheel at all.
Next major work is going to be the GSL-SE rear axle swap, and rebuilding the GSL front spindles with FC hubs/rotors/calipers.
Good times!
Replacing fuel lines, fixing surface rust, putting the interior back together, etc. I also have removed nearly all the A/C components, except for the evaporator. Not sure if it will be possible to pull the lines without cutting them.
Once of the best repairs has been the steering shaft bushing (behind the steering wheel and combo switch). No more slop in the steering wheel at all.
Next major work is going to be the GSL-SE rear axle swap, and rebuilding the GSL front spindles with FC hubs/rotors/calipers.
Good times!
03-30-14, 08:38 AM
#43
DGRRX
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Just a little update. Been sourcing parts, cleaning and repairing things here and there. Started a new job, which has me working more hours.
Right now, I am waiting for someone from work to make me a strut cartridge tool. Mine has the 4 pin nut at the top, some have a 2 slot nut. Nobody has the tool, he used to be a machinist, so it should be easy.
Once the struts are done, here is the list to do in order:
Reinstall front struts
Install new front brake hoses and pads
Install new sway bar links
Install fuel tank
Install new fuel pump
Install new clutch slave and master cylinder
Install transmission
Install engine
Install radiator/oil cooler
Install new rad hoses and stuff
Bleed all the brake and clutch hydros
Fill differential with fluid
Fill transmission with fluid
Fill engine with oil
Fill engine/rad with coolant
Reinstall headlights, taillights, associated trim
Find and install a muffler (this one is roached)
Really, nothing there is hard, or time consuming. The 'hardest' part is probably all the trim installation.
The first week on April (6th-12th), with wife and kid will be out of town. I still have to work, but I will have more time to work on it. Also, Sundays are free, so I can get stuff done then as well.
Right now, I am waiting for someone from work to make me a strut cartridge tool. Mine has the 4 pin nut at the top, some have a 2 slot nut. Nobody has the tool, he used to be a machinist, so it should be easy.
Once the struts are done, here is the list to do in order:
Reinstall front struts
Install new front brake hoses and pads
Install new sway bar links
Install fuel tank
Install new fuel pump
Install new clutch slave and master cylinder
Install transmission
Install engine
Install radiator/oil cooler
Install new rad hoses and stuff
Bleed all the brake and clutch hydros
Fill differential with fluid
Fill transmission with fluid
Fill engine with oil
Fill engine/rad with coolant
Reinstall headlights, taillights, associated trim
Find and install a muffler (this one is roached)
Really, nothing there is hard, or time consuming. The 'hardest' part is probably all the trim installation.
The first week on April (6th-12th), with wife and kid will be out of town. I still have to work, but I will have more time to work on it. Also, Sundays are free, so I can get stuff done then as well.
04-11-14, 10:06 PM
#46
DGRRX
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Still working.
Have all the parts I need to get it running, and driving.
Only installing the engine/trans (easy), and fluid fills are left. Also, waiting on my wheels.
Some tips:
Centric front brake hoses are WRONG. They are fine pitch, but should be coarse. tg_farrell sent me some OE Mazda SA hoses which are a PERFECT match.
626 front struts (late 70's, early 80's) will work, but I had to mill down the hold down nuts a couple MM to make them work.
I have GSL-SE front uprights and rear axle, but am not going to install them until next fall. There are some issues to work out up front. The rear is a simple. Re-weld the GSL-SE brackets to the locations of the Cosmo. New driveshaft with a GSL-SE rear flange. Front is a little different. For one, the bolts for the upright are M14 vs M12 for the GSL-SE. This can be overcome easily. However, the overall height for the GSL-SE upright is about 4-5" shorter than the Cosmo units. This would out the oil pan nearly on the ground. Need to make a strut top spacer to make that work out.
Updates soon. Sorry no pics. It's hammer time right now, and I don't have time for that BS. Been essentially working alone on all this, so with work, family and time off, I can't be bothered with pics.
Have all the parts I need to get it running, and driving.
Only installing the engine/trans (easy), and fluid fills are left. Also, waiting on my wheels.
Some tips:
Centric front brake hoses are WRONG. They are fine pitch, but should be coarse. tg_farrell sent me some OE Mazda SA hoses which are a PERFECT match.
626 front struts (late 70's, early 80's) will work, but I had to mill down the hold down nuts a couple MM to make them work.
I have GSL-SE front uprights and rear axle, but am not going to install them until next fall. There are some issues to work out up front. The rear is a simple. Re-weld the GSL-SE brackets to the locations of the Cosmo. New driveshaft with a GSL-SE rear flange. Front is a little different. For one, the bolts for the upright are M14 vs M12 for the GSL-SE. This can be overcome easily. However, the overall height for the GSL-SE upright is about 4-5" shorter than the Cosmo units. This would out the oil pan nearly on the ground. Need to make a strut top spacer to make that work out.
Updates soon. Sorry no pics. It's hammer time right now, and I don't have time for that BS. Been essentially working alone on all this, so with work, family and time off, I can't be bothered with pics.
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