What's the conclusion of this question 'whats the best coilover for a buck, how long did the dampers lasted?' Tein, Stance, K-sport, Megan, Rotary Works, etc. Don't want to start another neck to neck coilover thread, but here it is. Its just fun.

 

I bought Megan Racing "streets" 2 or 3 years ago brand new for 1000 shipped and they haven't let me down yet. Not bad and the price has gone down on them since. Now they're around 800 or 900 shipped. For something from China they're are pretty good deal and i've "tested" mine a ton and never had a problem (knock on wood)

 

Way to little amount of information supplied by the OP. Drift? AutoX? Road Race? Rally? Street only? Why do you feel like you need coilovers to begin with?

 

Well right now my fc has jic basic coilovers. I don't know how old they are since I've tried looking them up or contact jic directly with no luck. I like the spring rate wich im assuming there 8&6k but the dampers are done for, Ive been wanting to remove the core but I believe its not a cartridge. I dd it with the occasional event, so either rebuild this jic's that the physical structure is in ok condish. Or get my hands on a new set up. Personally Im quite interested on the K-Sport drift control coilovers, but I've read on few cases that dampers go out within ten months. K-sport says they came up with a new generation(batch) or design. I strongly believe that its up to each individual driving style

 

If they are real JIC, http://www.jic-magic.com/MaintenanceInfo.aspx.

 

Thanks for the link, I guess I didn't go deep enough on there site. By looking at this it would be around $800 plus shipping, which it comes down to the average price for coilovers. Spend a few hundred more and get a new setup. It also mentioned that if necessary jic will take the used ones as a core for new sets as a discount

 

stance and BC seem to be the proven cheap coilovers (for rx7's anyway). i havnt seen anyone complain about them, to include trackday people.

 

Yeup. Fwiw, I have stance. Seem to be ok. But the price recently skyrocketed to around $1200 for a set. All 4 of your jic coilovers are blown? $800 for repair of $2000 coilovers isn't that bad to me. You don't seem like you are that serious about racing and such so I doubt you would want custom valving but you could. They will inspect them for free, I bet if you sent in all 4 only a couple will really be blown.

If you want your car low, the ability to have super hard suspension, and super cheap rebuilds, you might want to check out poweredbymax coilovers. They are $1000.

 

opps, double post fail.

 

Right, Rotary Works are $799. Cheapest yet reputable

 

When I lift up the vehicle fully at the shop where I work, im able to compress both fronts all the way, the rears aren't as bad. I consider all four blown.

 

Powered by Max. $1080 shipped and they sell individual replacement parts for easy rebuild in your garage. Their new model has a four year warranty on dampers, no sure on price though.

 

http://www.google.com/m/url?client=m...l7wuDp1_bGVjbg

This guy is making bank of off this.

 

Why do you say that? Do you mean he is overcharging or something?

 

i second on the PBM's. perfect for street but stiff on dd. i like how you can simply order new shocks when you need or less stiffer springs. overall awesome quality and only for 1080 shipped. the only downfall is the waitlist... good luck. i got mine second hand and they still are in great working condition after a 10k miles

 

Good price for good product. I bet the quantity sold is profitable, there's a waiting time for them. I think those dampers are awesome. Can't really complain with this product, what I thought its quite unique about the k-sport drifts control its the double spring(helper spring) on the rears, for apparently extra traction when excess load is applied, makes a little bit of sense, but im sure the seat separating them wears and could cause noise from both springs rubbing.

 

helper springs are only there to keep the spring properly seated when you jack up the car. or jump it lol.
they do nothing for performance/handling.

 

PBMs have a camber/caster plate of questionable usefullness. FWIW.

 

for most PBM owners, max camber/caster is what you want, so its not all that questionable.
if you're dialing your camber for grip, you're not buying PBM's.

 

Hey thanks alot jason for evening my trader score back up to 0, lol. So what's the max. Degrees that you can get from the PBM's?

 

I think it's weird for a company to decide to combine the adjustments. It seems like it'd easy enough to do an AWR-style upper plate. Doesn't increasing caster (too much?) also increase turn in difficulty? I just can't see that plate making all drivers (drifters) happy. Then again I've never increased caster on my FC as I have no provisions to, so I can't honestly say.

Andrew- IDK, there's a thread somewhere on here about them, it might be in there. I believe you can also slot the knuckle to get more if you really need it.

 

For about a year a had the front plates at full camber. I experienced the feeling of the nose being to light and excessive inner thread wear. Ive read a few blogs of the fc being notorious to undetsteer but I don't really agree after adjusting the plates back to- 1° and had laser alignment done. Now the front end feels a bit more heavier because of more grip and more confident towards where its steering. DDing it makes it a good tool.

 

did you ever get an alingment when you first put the coilovers on? sounds like you just had too much toe out

 

No and no. Traded the fc for a previous ae86 I had for about four years and it already has this coilovers. I just don't agree with the myth of fc's understeer. In this case all four wheel moving vehicles understeer. Its all about timing and knowing your own limits. Yet again, who im I to judge? Even the brand new e90(335i) understeers, but mostly oversteers

 

mmk cuz caster decreases understeer. only situation i could see it making it worse is if you already have way too much static camber.
caster causes weight jacking (wedge) when you turn. this transfers load from rear inside to front inside = more front grip, less rear. fyi.

so if its understeering, its not the plates' fault. look elsewhere