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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 05:00 PM
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weber questions

Ok, so I am following the recomended "lean best idle" setting procedures. 1/2 turn out on the idle screw, 1 full turn out from lightly seated on the mixture screws. Then adjusting mixture till it starts to dog out and turning back till it smoothes out. The idle sounds ok, but as soon as I give it some throttle, it bogs and tries to die. I'm sure that indicates a need to change a jet or something, but I don't know. This is my first weber, and yes, I need to get some books on it, but I'd rather not have to wait to tune till I can get one. My weber is on older (New Old Stock) 70's 45 dcoe 9 with the brass floats and no air bypass screws. Help would be appreciated.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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bump for a problem still not solved.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 03:20 PM
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List your current settings; that might give us a clue as to the cause of the bogging.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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Settings/jetting

Originally Posted by PercentSevenC
List your current settings; that might give us a clue as to the cause of the bogging.
Currently setup as follows...
F11 E-tube
175 Main jets
55 Pump jets
65F9 Idle jets
36 Chokes
160 Air Correction jets

holley "red" style fuel pump and ebay fpr and gauge
running direct fire ignition, timing is right or very close.(checked several times)
everything is sparking, got fuel. Adjusted floats to about 4 or 5 mm and they overflowed into carb, adjusted to 8mm now.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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Question: My fpr gauge is a cheapo, and bounces like crazy all the time. It reads in 20 lb. increments, with dashes between and lines for lbs. Anyway, question is, could a bad fuel cutoff cause my symptoms? Or a clogged pickup sock? I REALLY don't want to drain 8 gal. of gas and pull the tank, but I've tried about everything I can think of (a couple times) but the bog is the one consistent. Any way to check those without dropping the tank?
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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Ask Hyper4mance2k, he has done it...
blow through carb, ya...
IDA, DCOE, yup he has done one.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Wait, your fuel pressure gauge reads in 20 PSI increments? How do you know your fuel pressure is even close to what it should be? Or am I misunderstanding?

Your settings look reasonable. If it's that bad I'd be inclined to think something in the carb is clogged. If you open the throttle very slowly, does it help? If so there could be a problem with the accelerator pump.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by PercentSevenC
Wait, your fuel pressure gauge reads in 20 PSI increments? How do you know your fuel pressure is even close to what it should be? Or am I misunderstanding?

I'm not sure how close it is to right. It does have "dashes" for lbs. markings, but the "numbers" go in 20lb. increments. I haven't been able to find a gauge to replace it with yet that is in small increments. I didn't know when I bought it that the gauge was like that, but it's all I got right now.

Your settings look reasonable. If it's that bad I'd be inclined to think something in the carb is clogged. If you open the throttle very slowly, does it help? If so there could be a problem with the accelerator pump.
Yes, when at idle, if I "feather" it up slowly it seems ok to a point, then bogs, but if I blip the throttle it just bogs. If it's the pump, I'll be pissed. I bought this brand new in the box. It's old, but was still sealed up and pristine. Any way to check if it's the accelerator pump?
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Another thought. Along the lines of eliminating possibilities, should I try to wire up the stock fuel pump and bypass the fpr to see if it improves? Or would the stock pump not put out enough to run it? Sorry, this is my first rotary assembly and my first weber, so I'm flyin blind. Nothing to gauge my progress by. Car had a spun bearing when I got it, has never run.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 03:14 PM
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Yeah, try it. If the stock pump is in good shape it should run okay.

You can test the accelerator pump by looking down the carb and opening the throttle. You should see a healthy squirt from the pump.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 08:45 PM
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Ok, I never pulled the tank and cleaned it, so I started at the source. Dropped the tank, cleaned and blew it and lines out. Ran a new fuel line from the tank. Fuel line wouldn't prime after all was hooked back up, so I bypassed the fpr, and prrrrrrr............. filled right up. The fuel pump I havw is way to much without a reg. so then I had to find my stocker and wire it in place. Worked well, getting fuel, but still has the stumble/bog! So, basically I'm back to square one. I did look into the stack and it appears to be getting fuel when I "blip" the throttle. Whether it's too much or not enough, I'm not sure. The idle has never sounded great at less than 1k, so I'm clueless what to start changing. I don't have spare chokes, but have different sizes of most everything else.
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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Try going up or down a size in idle jets and see if it makes it better or worse. While you're at it, check for any clogged jets.

You really need to verify your fuel pressure, too. Carb-style pressure gauges are cheap, just get one. I picked up a Mr. Gasket brand gauge for like 12 or 13 bucks.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 12:50 AM
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ok, I mixed and matched and got it to run good enough for a test drive. I got 3 whole blocks! New symptom. Idles ok, revs decent, pulls ok in 1st, 2nd starts good, but then craps out. 3rd is just a dream. No tranny noise or indication it's bad. push the clutch in and all seems ok, but under load (except 1st) it falls on it's face. Ideas?
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 02:01 PM
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Is your 2nd gear going out?
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 02:25 PM
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What idle jets are you using now? This still with the stock fuel pump hooked up? If you cruise gently in third, is it okay? If you push in the clutch and wait for a couple of seconds when it has its problem, can you then let it back out and cruise for a bit before it comes back? Have you tried different e-tubes, like F3 or F16?
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Is your 2nd gear going out?
Nope, gears feel good. Also happens in 3rd, never got above that yet.

Originally Posted by PercentSevenC
What idle jets are you using now? This still with the stock fuel pump hooked up? If you cruise gently in third, is it okay? If you push in the clutch and wait for a couple of seconds when it has its problem, can you then let it back out and cruise for a bit before it comes back? Have you tried different e-tubes, like F3 or F16?
I am currently running 185 mains, F-11 e-tube, 50 pump, 155 a/c, 65f9 idle and floats are up to about 5mm( measured from top of float to gasket). Stock pump is still hooked up as I have no functioning fpr to run the aftermarket one yet. Unfortunately I don't have any other e-tubes or chokes to test with. Yes, when it starts to putter/bog if I push the clutch in and rev a bit then let out, it goes away, then I release and for a sec it's ok, then bogs/putters again. What I don't get is it doesn't appear to be rpm related, since it's ok in 1st and reverse seems ok too. I can't afford a Mallory fpr, but I've found one that is rated at 3-12 psi, that should be good right? Or would I be better with a 1-4 psi one? Also, would it benefit me to put a "T" near my fuel union and run a return line with a restrictor in it, or just keep it "dead headed"? I'm going to pick up some alternate e-tubes and chokes as soon as I can, I'll need to change alot in a few weeks when I go to the street ported motor anyway, but want to get the bugs figured out before I bother starting all over.

Tomorrow I get to start on a whole new set of problems! Gotta pause on mine and drop the motor into the wifes 85GS then figure out how to put on and strip down a Nikki. It looks pretty intimidating. Lot's of **** on it. Trying to figure out how to strip it of all unnecessary emissions and just keep vac advance and basics. Got a feeling "suicidal thoughts" are soon to come. Followed closely by yelling, cursing and crying. Thank god I only have to do this 3 more times.
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Old Jan 30, 2010 | 03:07 AM
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Fuel delivery problems, then. Changed your fuel filter lately? There might be a blockage in the line somewhere, or maybe in the carb inlet. Or your stock pump might just be on its last legs. Get a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to your windshield while you're driving so you can watch it. (Or if you want to do it right, get a fuel pressure gauge isolator and put the gauge in the cabin.)

Personally, I'd just run it dead-headed with the cheap 1-4 PSI Holley FPR. Return-style is theoretically easier on the pump, but also costs more.
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