Hello everyone. I have been here on the forum for quite some time now but haven't posted too often.
Anyway, I have a weird question regarding the A/C removal.
My car is on the shop right now ( Pineapple Racing ) and its getting a complete rebuild and I thought about removing the A/C since we dont have much warm weather here in Everett, Washington and I originally come from Miami and used to drive there a Datsun 240Z without A/C for more than 10 years so I dont care too much about it.
But the question is: During the winter, when is really cold how often does it get so foggy that you would normally turn on the a/c to defog the windows and in this case you will not be able to?
I was ready to remove the A/C but someone call to my attention this point and since I am kinda new in the Seattle area I can not be sure if it happens a lot here and the a/c would be very important or not?
I know there is a few people around here that have FD's like Mazdatim for example so maybe they can give me some ideas about it since they know exactly how cold it gets in the area.
Thanks a lot for your help...
Leo

 

you don't need a/c to defog your window man, just as long as air is blowing on the window

 

Yes I know I have been doing that forever, but the thing is when it gets really really cold and maybe its snowing or raining outside, then what would happen? Will it get really fogged up, enough to need the a/c? Or it doesnt get that bad?
Thanks for the answer anyway.
Leo

 

i yanked the a/c compressor on my fd, windows fog up horribly when its wet out, but just hop in, turn the heater on defrost and the heat up and wait 5 minutes, no need for the a/c compressor to do that. just so we are clear, removing the a/c compresser doesnt make a difference with the fogging issue, its going to happen in the winter here, thats why we have heaters tho so dont worry about it. hope that helps

 

been usin this.. although my fds never sees inclement weather..

 

Ok, since my heater doesnt work too good ( it has a clogged core it seems ) I never had the chance to use it much. thats why I didnt know it would help that much. I thought it needed the compressor and the dryer in the a/c system to dry the air and get the fog out.
I guess for what you said, the heat would do the same.
Thank you all for the responses. I think I am still going to take the a/c out then.
Leo

 

yeah take it out. it weighs too much to keep it if you never plan on using it.

 

lol exactly cause we all know our fd's need to go on a diet

 

Well they dont need to go on a diet but I have been always a weight freak on my cars and I really know first hand that removing weight helps automatically the performance of the car on ALL areas, acceleration, braking, stability. Like I said before I used to drive a 1972 Datsun 240Z every day from more than 10 years, the car was gutted inside and the engine had most performance parts I could afford including the stock internals that I got lighter by removing weight on the crank, connecting rods, pistons and then rebalancing ( cheap way of doing it instead of buying the forged parts).
The car, was a little rocket and I dont think it had more than maybe 220 whp, but it only weighted around 2100 lbs. And that helped a lot.
On the other hand I dont want to go that far with the FD on the interior but since here the A/c is barely needed, then...take it out

 

a/c pump, smog pump, emmisions crap, pre cat, cat, stock catback, get rid of all that and you loose like 125 pounds, nice resonated midpipe, and aftermarket catback, some racing seats, carbon hood, hatch, and doors, and your all set, lol car will be light and nimble then,

 

Well I have almost all that done to the car already. What I still need is the seats and the hood but for what I know they dont give much weight advantage, specially the hood since the stock one being aluminum is very light, even though on the cooling department some of the aftermarket ones are better.
Doors and rear hatch would be nice but very expensive.

 

doors i think siebon sells for like 1600 for the set, hatch for around 600-800, and you can pick up a scoot style hood for about the same as the hatch, and the extra vents deffinately help with keeping things cool, i bought it more for that reason then i did the weight savings, but every pound counts i guess, the more i can save on the outside, the less has to be taken out on the inside is my theory, stock bare door shells weigh 32 pounds each, the carbon ones weigh about 9 pounds each, people will argue that they think they arent safe, but i figure if its good enough for lambo to use on the entire body its plenty safe to use as just a door.

 

lol have you ever seen a lambo or any other super car made with carbon after an accident? The number of dollars they pay for the car is the number of pieces it breaks into.

But to increas your safety just get a full cage

 

Yes, no matter what, I am getting a full cage soon since my car is about to get out of the shop and it should have close to 500 whp and thats more than enough to kill me easily
I already almost flipped the car with only 300 whp
In my mind, for safety, there is no substitute for a rollcage and harnesses.

 

lol one could argue theres no substitute for less hp and a light foot, but i laugh at those people and agree with you, cage that bitch and drive it like its sopose to be driven. lifes no fun if you just take the safe way out

 

THERE YOU GO!!!

 

That's why I bought a Taurus... Livin life on the edge

 

hahaha, yea tim your 214mph SHO, straight baller

 

But that Taurus must be constructed with special alloys to withstand the shockwave every time you break the sound barrier right?

 

no, that's y you can't go full throttle

 

i believe it was a half throttle run last time right tim? haha, could you imagine seeing a sho break the sound barrier, id probably poo my pants and run screaming like a little girl back to the safty of my 7, hahaha