To use it in an FB I'm assuming, don't they have the motor mount on the front cover or something like that?

You wont need to spend $500 on s5 housings... Just look for deals in the FS section, I got 1 70k s5 housing that looks awesome for $80 shipped along with a display one (meaning I don't wanna use it!). I'm in the process of getting another 80k s5 housing for $100 shipped in great condition as well.

Just gotta look... And no worries I'm in a similar boat with my current engine project, just dropped $900 on parts ALONE last night, and I still need more once I drive down to atkins

 

The front mounted bracket for 79?-85 stretches from both sides of the engine bay is fastened down on the front cover instead of two separate mounts located on both sides...

 

Update: Dan says that we can use S4 rotor housings. $400 for the pair. So this rebuild is going to end up costing me about $2600 instead of the $2100 I originally planned. Didn't get to go to the casino to win big like I planned tonight so I guess I just have to bite it and cough it up.

 

Alright. Engine is completed. As it stands, used S5 NA rotors weighing in at almost 9.5lbs each boosting my redline from 7 to 8, S4 rotor housings and center cast iron, S5 end cast irons and e shaft, Turbo II new oil pump and chain, 2mm Atkins apex seals, FD solid corner seals. Heres the kicker after talking and debating and then sleeping on it for about a week. I had the exhaust ported to as big as it can be. I know, I know, I said I wouldn't port but I never considered porting the exhaust until I talked with Dan. Ordered the S4 upper and lower intakes from rx7doctor complete with OMP actuating rod, throttle body, TPS, and intake rubber tubing. Dropped of 1 of my 2 FD alternators (90+ AMP) to a starter/alternator rebuild shop and had them convert the serp pulley to V-belt. At first they said they had to research it and find one to fit the shaft and be the same size pulley or just a bit smaller would amout to be about $40-45. A few hours later they call me and say they have a used one laying around the shop and will do the whole project for $10. SWEET! Next I need to buy some aluminum polish and polish to a shine the rotor housings, upper intake, and lower intake to a shine after I get them -why not? I'm going all out on what I want, might as well make my car a sexy sleeper. Rotary Ressurection says using a Efan out of a 95 Ford Escort fits nicely on the radiator but i have one of the two FD Efans laying around and will see how that fits. I hate Ford by the way! Need to buy some 4 guage wire to wire my alternator and make better grounds from the engine to chassis. Still need some more new parts. $22 for EACH of the OMP lines!!!! THERE"S 4 OF THEM! WOW! Someone has done steel braided lines on the forum and on ebay..........it would be more expensive but I'd never have a leak.

 

belfair hose and supply did my oil cooler lines for super cheap, i think 22 bux for the pair? and they can do steel braided lines so u could get ur omp lines done if u wanted... they are a great place... i'm probly gonna get my brake lines done by them(especially since the car is ******* out of commission again, so i got some down time to do it)

 

Nate, theres some stuff that will make things easier when it comes to polishing. Its called "what a shine" for aluminum polishing. Last place I purchased it was in federal way at the truck stop store. Any place that sells semi truck stuff, Im sure you could buy there. It will save you lots of time in polishing.

 

So what did you actually use from the S6 engine? Sounds like that was a total waste?

CJG

 

Dude, I dont even want to think about it. They said originally they didnt have everything needed to complete a S5 engine. In the end it wasn't a waste due to it was like a trade. If I didn't give them a good core, I would have had to pay for every piece used but I didn't.

 

Yesterday was a long, but bearable adventure in driving. First stop, Olympia to pick up rubber intake tube from elbow to AFM for a S4 intake. Thank you Taelem! Next stop Puyallup for my new Atkins built engine and 3rd gen Twin Turbo long block parts. BTW the JDM engine was used as a core deposit. Which is what it really was due to the rotor housings being too worn out to even run I guess. The e-shaft was the only part used. All other parts were S3, S4 and S5. Next hop from highway to highway to navigate all the way up to Redmond to pick up a FREE SE transmission. I could not live over on the Seattle side. People have no coutesy for other drivers and the right lane always turns into a EXIT ONLY lane. After 215 miles round trip, this is what I got...

Need to buy one more motor mount, upper and lower shifter bushings, wire for the alternator upgrade, buy the K&N drop in, get some aluminum shine, get enough paint to paint my engine bay while engine and tranny are out, and flow test my radiator and flush my oil cooler as part of the warranty.

 

Freakin sucks. Was going to tear out my engine this weekend but 1. they want me to train for half a day so I can get promoted- thats a plus I guess. 2. the shop where I'd do my transplant is currently full. GRRRR- maybe next weekend.

I've also decided to prep and paint my engine bay the color I want to paint my car. Might as well get it done now instead of later. I think I've decided on Milano Red. Really dark but almost glowing red. You can find it on a 99 prelude or a new accord. The paint job is in the future due to I wont paint it till I get the Embrundi body kit. Otherwise F that. the front and rear end of the FB is just too.......old looking. I think I'm going to take off the black door guards also.

 

So anyways...hopefully this weekend. Found a company that will flow test my radiator for free-YAY. Was going to prep and paint my engine bay while the engine was out but revised my solid state idea of San Marino Red (found on late model Honda Accords-kind of a real dark red-beautiful and radiant in the sun) to a dark grey/silver a little bit lighter than gunmetal. This way my engine bay can remain the same (cuz my car is already Tornado Grey). And dont worry, I won't even think about painting it till I get the Embrundi full body kit. Almost exactly looks like the Mariah body kit but smaller center opening in the front air dam.

Got my last parts ordered. Will start polishing intake manifolds and rotor housings tomorrow or the day after.

Have to drive a 89 or 88 honda CRX while my car is getting redone........:S-ill save gas money i guess

 

Sigh....well another weekend rolls by. Maybe this weekend.

I got promoted! From Lube Lackie at Haselwood Buick Pontiac GMC truck in bremerton to Service Writer. Pay upgrade and more hours. Lots more overtime baby!

 

Congrats!

 

I did it!!! Well got it pulled anyway. Between changing 2 car's oil and setting up a nice work area, we managed to get my engine and trans out yesterday. I'm heading out the door to work so I'll post pics later tonight.

 

Still waiting for my friend to email me the pics that I took...... GRRR...Today was all about cleaning. Got off work moved things around so I could move my car out of my makeshift shop. Made a run down to the parts store to pick up some Super Clean Degreaser and sprayed the crap out of my engine bay, my old engine and my new transmission. I took out my coils and tried my best not to directly spay any electrical sensors or connectors. Pressure washed everything after letting it sit for a bit. Battery tray is rusted from prevous battery acid....might sandblast that and spoof paint it. Everything looks sooo much better. Tomorrow I need to search through the shop to find some bolts to attach the new motor to an engine stand. From there I'll start swapping stuff over. Hopefully tomorrow I'll send off my 5/6 port sleeves to Pineapple Racing to have the inserts installed. I'll tell you what, the sleeves are bigger than I thought. In the pictures they look about 3 inches long but in reality they're about 6". Time to go to sleep to start the big cycle over again.

BTW...used the homemade CPU checker that gslse addict mentioned and confirmed that there are no Trouble Codes stored in my CPU. Good thing I guess. I was suspecting my MAF to be faulty. O well.

 

My computer is officially f*cked. Probably bad RAM. Using a family member's right now.

So yesterday after work I tore down most of the external pieces off the engine and made a list off all the stuff that needed to be done today.

Well today was an errand day. Get everything done that cant be done during the the hours of when I'm off (5:45pm-10pm) 6-7 hours after that I'm sleeping. I slept in for a change. FELT SOO GOOD! 10 hours of sleep....mmmmm. Get started at 11am. First major stop is Mobile Audio. I need to pick up some 4 guage wire for my alternator upgrade and to make a ground kit. I have $22 credit but the only guy who knows how to use the system is on vacation. $6, next is Tacoma screw, my new S4 intake didn't come with any nuts or bolts $9, East Bremerton to get my radiator flow tested $0 radiator failed test-BUMMER-it never overheated for me :S..new radiator (2row, Performance Radiator) $216, Junkyard go searching for a e-fan from a 91-95 Escort. Word is that they match up nearly perfect for FB's, had to get a door hinge for my uncle too. fan-$25, next to Belfair hose. I need to see if they can make me some new Oil Metering Pump lines, I got 2 new ones but my other two are shot. They say they can only do steel braied. OK COOL......GUESS HOW MUCH???? $32 for the set!!!!! YAH! All during this time I had Westbay Auto parts resurface my semi new Racing Beat lightweight flywheel. It was really mirrored. clutch and pressure plate are awesome though. Its kinda hard to stay out of the clutch as much as possible when you have a Stage 3 6puck clutch that bitches less when you drop it from 1800-2000RPM....... there's a couple other trips I made like Lowes to try to find an adapter to convert from my 3.5" MAF to the new 4" S4 intake tube....not much of a solution...just some ideas rolling around in my head. Came back and the car I was using was taken to go to the casino without me and I had to watch the dog. Well I ended up sandblasting my battery tray, oil pan, and the metal shroud thing that goes in front of my radiator. My uncle gave me a good idea and we used spray on undercoating and rust stop and coated the battery tray. I doubt that I can make it to the Drag and a Movie event. I dont think I'll make it to my family reunion this weekend in Portland either....

 

BTW found a few other rotorheads in East Bremerton...they work at Westbay Auto parts. I think one of them was Rob, he's a member on the forum but hasnt been on for a while. I think I talked him into going to the BBQ. Another co worker owns a 12A in a MG! I have never heard of that!

Saw the elusive bright yellow FB with the whaletale spoiler in the Bremerton High school parking lot...maybe he lives nearby or works at the school for the summer. Followed in my FB on the freeway one day from Kitasp Way all the way to Poulsbo.

 

that whale tail FB is claridon, or Rotortuner... least thats one of his cars...

 

Ya, the yellow pile is mine, my t2 swapped fb is in need of maintainance and i havent been able to get to it. the yellow car is usually reserved for rallyin over by quilcene, and its an SA not an FB. Usually I drive a 323 GTX every day, i just got done replacing the turbo on it, so i should be able to drive that again pretty soon.

CJG

 

Tomorrow is the big day!!! Tomorrow I get to start my car! Got some questions I have to ask in the 1st gen section and the 2nd gen but it should all come together tomorrow! Its about time! Luckily tomorrow is my day off too! Got my 5/6 port sleeves back from Pineapple with their sleeve inserts installed. Cleaned my actuators and tomorrow I have to figure out a way to unclog the air tube on the botttom of the intake (actuator air supply pipe. Seems to be very clogged... Have to figure out how to convert wiring to the BACV valve from my gslse to the S4..... hook up the radiator, new e-fan with adjustable thermostat, wire in my FD alternator, make my 4 ga. ground wire harness, clean my old 5000 mile old spark plugs (all parts stores dont have them in stock, thats what I get for last minute thinking), and .....cross my fingers. Got some progress pics with my camera phone. Will post those later. The ones I took with my friend's digi camera got screwed up.....

 

well look at that, it didn't happen. sigh. I screwed up my 5/6 ports some how with the new sleeves and when the lower intake manifold went in the ports were REALLY hard to move. Meeting Dan tonight to work something out. Throughout this whole swap he and Atkins Rotary have been VERY helpful. He has been bending over backwards for some of my stuff and doesn't get annoyed at any of my questions. With that being said I WANT NO TRASHTALKING ON MY THREAD! Thats all I have to say.

All I have left is to hook up my new FD alternator, hook up my S4 BACV, intake and mod my new efan and wiring harness, add the fluids and cross the fingers....

 

cool. glad it's almost there. can't wait to see it sunday. what do the sleeves do anyways? ( gotta be a 13b thing).

 

when the 5/6 ports open, air rushes through the sleeve. The stock sleeves go straight in then the air hits a brick wall at the end of the sleeve. The inserts are a type of "ramp".

 

i've seen discussion on this forum, complete with diagrams, that a pocket is created at that "brick" wall, which makes the air "ramp" through the port, very good discussion

 

Alright everything was officially finished the day of the big BBQ. BTW I'm really sorry I missed it. I put in money for me to sit at home working on my car, wishing it was done, eating chicken and drooling over 3rd gens.

Problem is its getting no fuel.... At first I was being a dumbass and didn't check a simple thing and then I got fuel to the fuel rail. BUT NO INJECTION. The car starts if I spray fuel injector cleaner down the throttle. So I'm left with what would cause that computer to not send a signal to the injectors??? Are they connected? Yes. Is the MAF connected? Yes. Did you try jumping the fuel pump relay to manually turn on the fuel pump? Yes. Did you check the fuses? Yes. Is the fuseable link ok? Yes. Did you unplug the computer? No. *The only thing I did to the computer was hook up the homemade code checker (written up by gslse addict) and confirmed no codes stored in the computer before and after motor swap* Is everything electrical plugged in? Yes. *The only things not plugged in is the Sub zero bottle because I removed it, the cruise control cable motor thing, and the sub zero oil temp sending unit in the oil pan.*

I parked the car fine. Had no problems except the extremely low idle (I think it was a intake leak)

SO....I've been going through possible solutions thinking .."ok what is different now that I didn't have before besides most of my setup"
1. FD alternator....had to make a wiring harness to adapt to the FD alternator...lost the instructions and recovered half the instructions...it was a 50/50 chance on if I got the wires right

2. BACV S4 connector...had to make wiring harness to adapt to the S4 BACV on the back of the plenum. There's only a ground and a hot. blue with yellow lines are usually hot and black without a white stripe is usually ground..

3. S4 TPS sensor...word is that the S3 and the S4 should interchange without problems. BUT when I connected my TPS lights it didn't give me a regular reading like my S3. When my S3 TPS was out of adjustment both lights lit up and when its to its point one goes out. With the S4 one light was on when I started and when it finally clicked (the sweet spot) the light went off all together.....

Let me double check that I haven't crossed my fuel lines and made the return line go to the pressure side of the fuel rail....I really dont think I crossed them. I double checked it but I'll do it again.

On another note...when it did start on fuel injector cleaner...its REALLY loud. Keep in mind I haven't changed a thing with my exhaust. Still header, presilencer and supposed RB PP. I just have the xhaust ported as large as it can go.......