ApexRX

I own an 88 N/A car.....no mods
The car has full power through the rpm range and even idle's ok around 1100 rpm's with 14v(so says the display)
If it does drop below 1100, which it does when you throttle then let the rpms fall naturally, it gets dangerously close to stalling out the engine.
Along with this the volts also appear to drop to 12 or below

the idle although steady at 1100rpms, will rise and fall when under that point.

Ive checked the harness and everything looks plugged in. there are no visible vaccum leaks although the car does have an small exhaust leak.

i have cleaned the battery terminals and like i said before starting, at idle(1100) and throughout the rpm range the volt output appears to be 14v.

Has anybody had a similar problem, or might lead me in the right direction for a fix? info would be much appreciated...

Rotarbeast

well first of all you shouldnt be idling that high. u should be between 750 and 850

mr.rotaryrx7

test for vacuum leak with propane. spray propane around motor while running and if the idle and rpms decrease or increase then there's a leak

meximan

iTrader: (37)

wtf??? spray propane around a running motor????

mr.rotaryrx7

umm.. yes, ******* that what Atkins rotary and my auto shop teacher told me to do when i had that problem. Its a hell of a lot easier than searching through all the rotaries vacuum lines. Not to mention i dont see you helping any one out.. so whats you idea?

meximan

iTrader: (37)

sure! Can you give a more detailed explanation of whats goin on with your car. When the car is at idle it sits at 1100 and runs fine. 14v ect. What do you mean when u let it fall naturally? gas on gas off? your volts should not be changing due to vac leak. How long has this problem gone on. have yo done any work to the car lately. If nothing has been messed with, here my thoughts. 1. alt is dying, if anytime soon if your idiot lights work and they all kick on. theres your warning (you hve 10 mins to get to auto part store), 2. Your tps is out of adjustment which could explain why your rpms are so high at idle. have you messed with the screw that looks like its attatched to the throttle?

Fumi

whoa calm down with the ******** outta nowhere.
and ive been a fan of starting fluid or ether for a vac leak check

meximan

iTrader: (37)

awww its ok fumi , it gave me a chuckle.

Rotarbeast

rude.



and that first sentence says it all

"that was what atkins rotary and my...."

i stopped reading after that.


moron.

Rotarbeast

"occupation - safeway"


this guy must be a rotary genius!

mr.rotaryrx7

i used to work at Safeway bitch

Rotarbeast

^ this guy is crazy.

Fumi

keep it atleast some what on topic and no more flaming

ApexRX

Well im glad atleast someone replied to my post.....
When i bought the car, the guy told me he spent all night trying to get it running....got it running for a few seconds, then it died and he couldnt get it started again.....
took me two second to realise the plug wires where incorrectly situated... and it fired right up first time after that....

Car hasnt been mine for long, and seems very abused but does have all the power it should. one thing that was mentioned is that a previous owner has messed with the tps screw and couldnt getting running very well after that.
whenever i adjust the screw, i can get the engine to smooth out and run nicely but the idle never falls below1100rpm.
the alternator could be dying but why would i encounter a problem only when the idle falls below 1100? and not at any other time?
As i was trying to say earlier and maybe i wasnt so clear about this... if you are anywhere above idle and let the rpm's fall naturally back to idle... sometimes it will stick at 1100 and other times it will fall below and almost die(at this point the volts waver)
on another note, after i rearranged the plug wires and got the car running ok, i took it out for a test drive. the car would idle steady(although still at 1100) but after accelerating to about 3500rpms the car would fall flat on its face..... need i say it was a short testdrive. After narrowing it down we found a connector on the passenger side wiring harness just below the throttle body, that was pretty gunked up... after cleaning the connecter, we found the car had no problem and could accelerate through the entire rpm range.
this did not help the idle problem though.
I hope i provided any new help.
Maybe ill have my alternator tested......

meximan

iTrader: (37)

Im willing to bet its your tps then. They fail alot, You cant hand adjust your tps and kinda tune it by sound or anything like that, You need to get a multimeter and test the resistances on the tps and then turn the screw until your tps is within spec. If it cant get withing spec by using that screw then your tps is a goner and you need a new one.