So since I actually know the people here, and know that you guys will give me straight up answers I'm coming here. I'm getting an RX8 (although the 7 will always have a place in my heart) and I've been doing extensive research. Problem #1 is no one on the RX8 forum can make up their mind on what type of oil to use, and when I ask them they tell me to research the past threads, which are completely unclear and unhelpful.

Apparently 5w-20 is horrible for the engine and 5w-30 makes it last, but then there's a whole bunch of other suggestions and since I really don't know much about the inner workings of these cars I have no knowledge to base my decision, so I'm going to use yours. (Although you would be proud, I spent 3 hours yesterday memorizing how the rotary engine works and the names of the parts )

I know a few of you have RX8s, so please please please could you help me out here?

 

I use 20W50 on my car. I've never owned an rx8 though. but thats what I run in My FB and my T2

 

Oil is oil. Some type is better than none at all. Don't put too much emphasis on "what oil should i use". The owners manual will show a graph of appropriate weights for the temperature conditions. Follow those recommendations. Beyond that, brand, synthetic/conventional, additive package are all up to you, and how much you want to spend.

 

^^ i thought that synthetics create an ash-like residue?

 

If you use low quality synthetics, the consensus is that they leave ash.
High quality though (mobil 1, royal purple etc.) are supposedly fine. I run 20w50 dinosaurs

 

Wrong wrong wrong...Good god internet myths just don't die.

Synthetic oil is safe to use in ANY application requiring a conventional oil of the same grade. Synthetic oils molecules are smaller, and can penetrate into smaller surfaces, allowing better lubricity. The additive packages are sometimes better too, as you're usually spending more money for that benefit.

This ash you speak of, i have no idea what you mean by that...

 

The ash thing was an old problem, long since solved. I wouldn't feel concerned running any modern synthetic in a rotary.

If it were me, I'd use 0W-30 synthetic or 5W-30 dino for the 8.

 

rotarys burn oil, unlike a piston engine old cheapo sinthetics left an ash behind. so mazda said no synthetic oils to be used in a rotary. Problem has been fixed, but since we burn oil spending the extra money on synthetics is a waist IMO unless your OMP is blocked off, and your running premix.

Also oil is not oil. 20W50 in a rotary.

 

I really like this article. Helped me understand a lot more about oil than I used to.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

 

are u buying a brand new rx8 or a used one?

if buying a used one an 06+ will have all the ecu flashes and alot of small problems fixed.

if its an 04 or 05 check closly

1 when was ecu reflashed?( to higher oil injection forgot what reflash it was )
2. do the tail lights leak?( common problem gasket is 35 ea)
3 does the clutch pedal squeek or move side to side?( bracket is known to break early 80 dollars through malloy mazda, but i belive they are doing extended 100K 8 yr recall on it finally also)

4. how easy does it start? theres an old starter that cranks slowly making the car slow to start and more prone to flooding. new high torque starter cranks alot faster( new starter was about 350 through malloy mazda)

 

also good choise on getting an 8, its a real fun car and the closest to practical as a rotary can get!

 

Rx8's are nice. I'd say Mobil 1 10w30.

 

The reason I posed the question about oil is that (from what I've read so far) the 5w-20 weight isn't heavy enough and so the engine blows at 30k. However that seemed to come from the southern states where it's hotter. They say to put in 5w-30 to avoid that.

Also I'm not looking at any one 8 in particular, but the 04 and 05s are a heck of a lot cheaper. It seems to be a hit and miss with those years, some people are up to 170k with no major problems and the others pooped out at 30k. I'm armed with warning signs and what to look for and I'm taking a couple people with me that do know more then I do about them, but agreeably it's still a risk. I devised a long checklist to read off to the seller and if one thing isn't checked then it's a no go. This is my list so far, anything I should add?

*Check the oil pan, early years are prone to it breaking
*Make sure the ignition coils have been replaced within the past 30k miles
*Check the clutch pedal, as the early ones are faulty
*Check engine compression (Help on this one? What is it and what's good?)
*Clean MAF sensor
*Clean ECC sensor
*A/C is charged and serviced
*Air filters are clean
*Clean oil filter
*Maintenance records and Carfax
*Nothing is horribly wrong with it

I did really want a 3rd gen RX7 but the reliability of those are so I figured the 8 would be best

 

I think you hit all the nails on the head. Also on the earlier 8s check for rust and corrosion on the oil cooler lines as well as the oil pan. Mine was an 07 that had seen a bit of salt in its day and the oil pan had strted to show some pitting.

 

So I'm looking at one up in Issaquah and it's in near perfect condition. It runs super smooth, no wrecks, no dings, no damage of any kind. I checked everything on my list and no problems, too good to be true right? Well it was a recall car, it got a new engine and clutch in 2008. Only 10k on the new engine, 62k on the chassis. It's got aftermarket superficial parts on it (spoiler, carbon fiber hood, rims, painted brake calipers) but the dealer wants $14k for it, not including taxes. I want to see if I can talk him down to 13k taxes and all. Is it worth it still?

Also, anyone volunteer to go up with me on sunday to check it out? As much as I've learned the past couple days you guys still have years experience on me and could spot something that I didn't. I'll buy your dinner at the next Izzy's meet

 

Another thing to consider with the 8 and its oil, is you need to keep oil change receipts to be valid for the engine warranty should it ever have problems. That being the case, I wouldn't use anything other than 5w20 (NON SYNTHETIC) until your warranty has expired. You don't want to give them any reason to deny the warranty claim.

Now if you want the real answer, consider this: in every other market on earth except the us, Mazda calls for 5w30 for the 8. The real reason for 5w20 in the us was to get some extra MPG out of the car.

Something else to chew on. One of the reasons why oil has been getting thinner in newer cars is to allow it to build oil pressure faster on startup. 90% of engine wear occurs when you start the car and it hasn't yet built proper oil pressure yet. There is a reason for thinner oil. Also, I am unsure about renesis bearing clearances as compared to earlier rotaries, which may be another reason for thinner oil, but again, I am not sure on this.

 

I say use what ever weight oil is necessary to maintain the correct oil pressure at heavy loads. Lower weights will of course be thinner and can result in lower oil pressure the opposite is true for higher weights.

 

a new engine is deffinitly a plus

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/1972421149.html
u talking about this one here? lol that wing is a bit much haha
hmm ya id try to talk them down, mods shouldnt increase the price
. id try to get them down to 11-12 ( i paid 12.5 for mine with 56K miles grand touring nortic green with every option minus nav)

 

Read this thread on 8club

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454

 

Also watch your shifting 1st to 2nd gear. Syncos arent to friendly when slamming gears.

Mines a 07' with 55k miles and been using 5-20 since I bought the car with under 10 miles on it new. This car gets beat on every day all day, street to autocross.

 

Well the dealer was not willing to budge so that was a no go. lol the thing is I'm weird and love the giant spoilers, haven't found anyone else that does though.

Looked at another one today, fell in love with it. It's the Grand Touring model (red and black leather seats!) There are ALOT of door dings and minor scratches since he uses it as a daily driver, but the reason it stood out was that the owner knew how to take care of the engine. The first thing out of his mouth was if I knew how to take care of a rotary and he wouldn't sell it to me if I didn't.

It was internally the best one I've run across, the interior was perfect as well. The only thing wrong was all the dings. He wanted 11k for it and it has 83k miles on the engine, but it's still covered by mazdas warranty which is nice.

Good deal?

 

To tell you the truth 83K is one engine I would definitely steer clear of. I would rather get something with a lot less if possible. At that mileage the apex seals have to be pretty close to wear limit. I would go for the replaced one. I mean with that kind of mileage I guess you could get a rebuild kit and redo the engine but I do not think that is the point of your purchase.

 

hmm true. Goodness the joys of hunting one down. thankfully I'm not in a hurry and I have everyone here to help me out

 

I'd definitely look for one with a lot less miles. My 2004 only has 53k on the chassis and 300 miles on the new motor. Obviously that is not a lot for a car that is 6.5yo. Keep looking because you will find a better deal.

 

Why are the motors being replaced so soon? Does the rene suck that bad?