Front diff mount problem...
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: WA State
Front diff mount problem...
Sooo...I drift my car hard...ALOT.
This consists of lots of clutch kicks, fast shifting, and clutch popping...
With that said, anyone else ever have problems with their front diff mount (the one that mounts to the subframe)? I keep ******* ripping the rubber ones apart (yes, even newer goodish ones).
I've tried reinforcing and welding the tabs/notches around there, and even replacing the rubber with a completely solid block of metal, and THIS **** happens -

...which, sucks even more because it causes my diff and driveshaft to basically hammer up onto my chassis, and cause even more awesomeness...

Sooo...ya.
Suggestions?
Halp.
This consists of lots of clutch kicks, fast shifting, and clutch popping...
With that said, anyone else ever have problems with their front diff mount (the one that mounts to the subframe)? I keep ******* ripping the rubber ones apart (yes, even newer goodish ones).
I've tried reinforcing and welding the tabs/notches around there, and even replacing the rubber with a completely solid block of metal, and THIS **** happens -

...which, sucks even more because it causes my diff and driveshaft to basically hammer up onto my chassis, and cause even more awesomeness...

Sooo...ya.
Suggestions?
Halp.
Look into a 'Nevr break diff mount". T04tii makes them. Also, you will need a pinion snubber. I've got the same issues with my diff mount, and I dont drift. I've got a bad TPS sensor, and an engine brace; and when other people drive the car they let it buck around and it is extremely hard on the front diff mount. Suffice to say, mine has started to separate from the rubber.
I think that a pinion snubber is all you will really need. Just make sure it pushes against the diff slightly so it can't build momentum.
-I'm swapping in another stock front diff mount in today... Should be fun as I have a 1 piece exhaust from the downpipe to the mufflers.
I think that a pinion snubber is all you will really need. Just make sure it pushes against the diff slightly so it can't build momentum.
-I'm swapping in another stock front diff mount in today... Should be fun as I have a 1 piece exhaust from the downpipe to the mufflers.
dont use a solid diff mount.. your subframe will break before the stock mount does so a solid mount will only agrivate it.
all you need is a pinion snubber- HELP part# 31052. theyre like 7 bucks at baxter or autozone. baxter may not have one in store, but they carry the part- i've seen a box of them in the warehouse.
right in teh middle of that hump between the storage bins is a 1/2" diameter indented hole. drill that out, and mount the snubber there. no more broken diff mounts/subframes
all you need is a pinion snubber- HELP part# 31052. theyre like 7 bucks at baxter or autozone. baxter may not have one in store, but they carry the part- i've seen a box of them in the warehouse.
right in teh middle of that hump between the storage bins is a 1/2" diameter indented hole. drill that out, and mount the snubber there. no more broken diff mounts/subframes
I've told others that a welded pinion mount is a very bad idea..... your pics show why.
Here's a pic of my pinion snubber- it's a polyurethane one made by energy suspension. the view is looking in from the Left rear, with the diff/subframe/etc. fully assembled.
Here's a pic of my pinion snubber- it's a polyurethane one made by energy suspension. the view is looking in from the Left rear, with the diff/subframe/etc. fully assembled.
Last edited by 1Seven4Me; May 11, 2008 at 05:05 AM.
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if you look on the hump between your cargo bins, its very obvious where the snubber goes. theres a lone 1/2" circle there in the middle, saying 'drill me'. its as tho mazda knew we would need them..
get HELP part# 31052. the energy brand snubber (pictured above) with the ripply sides is shorter, and so is a little less effective.
get HELP part# 31052. the energy brand snubber (pictured above) with the ripply sides is shorter, and so is a little less effective.
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