ddub

For those that don't read the 2nd gen section, thought a couple might be interested in my project. Original thread https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/my-engine-project-begins-431150/

This project has sort of... ballooned into a much larger ordeal. I've also been working on a lot of other people's rx7's besides my own unfortunately, so I haven't had time to finish some things. BUT, it doesn't matter anyways because I'm still waiting on some parts. In addition to this engine I decided it's time to go with Megasquirt n' Spark, parallel fuel mod with aeromotive FPR and ss fuel lines, 4x550cc and an FD fuel pump (might as well go with more than enough fuel and tune down since I have standalone, and my ports will be large), relocated battery, bla bla bla. My megasquirt still isn't completed, and once it gets here I have to build the harness, I'm still waiting on some stuff for my battery relocation, and I'm waiting on various misc things for my fuel setup. Therefore I haven't been too crazy about getting stuff done.

Anyways, today I worked on my primary intake port. Here's a pic of the UNFINISHED product. I ran out of sandpaper drums so I couldn't finish smoothing/straightening out the lines and smoothing the runner/bowl, so this is just the rough port before I can finish it off.



For comparison here is stock.



The secondary/aux is my secret for now. Once the engine is broken in, standalone is fully tuned, and things are tweaked the way I want, I'll be heading to the dyno to get some numbers. After the I get the numbers I'll fill in on the rest. Some people know what the secondary/aux ports look like already, but oh well

That's it for now, any questions? I'm just moving along slowly, hopefully I'll be building the engine this week and test fitting it/some custom stuff in the engine bay but who knows. I cannot get the n/a sleeves out of my housings for the life of me, but I'm paying a visit to a machine shop tomorrow to see what they can do.


Hopefully you'll see my FC back on the road by mid September

ddub

Oh yah, so anyone local good at removing exhaust sleeves? I'm really getting upset about my n/a ones not coming out

I was trying BDC's method with porting out the roll pin a tad then threading in a self-tapping wood screw and pulling it out. Well, everything was going fine and I was standing on the sides of the housing pulling as hard as I could on the vice grips when all of a sudden the head of the screw snapped CLEAN OFF leaving the rest of the screw still inside. At that point I was so frustrated at the sleeves I just walked away.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

try lots of degreaser of some kind. like pb blaster or break cleaner. It could just be massive crarbon build up holding it in place

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Yikes, that sucks about the roll pin... Do you have access to a drill press? You might just have to try and drill that one completely out... Did you get the 'zinc plated' sheet metal screws? I had a couple that broke when I removed the sleeves, but I never was completely over my head.

I would get the 1 1/4" zinc plated sheet metal screws, use some PB blaster etc. and spray the crap out of the roll pins, screw in the... screw, into the roll pin firmly (don't break it though) and use a slide hammer to pull it out. The good thing about the slide hammer is that it 'pops' the roll pin out, and you get a perfectly straight up and down 'pull', no side to side.

I don't know, that method worked VERY easily for me after some trial and error and messing with BDC's way.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Actually get 1 1/2" screws with a head that can be screwed in with a socket, rather than phillips etc.

ddub

Yah I'm going to a machine shop on Monday with a drill press and seeing what they can do for me.

88IntegraLS

Dremel cut off wheel.

Secret ports? Whoa yeah, you go TEd, I mean Ddub, lol.

ddub

LOL

I already mentioned them to you in the other bbq thread, I'm just not going to post pics until the dyno is done. If you want I can send them to you though

And my dremel cutoff wheel cant fit in the between the sleeve on one side, and is too wide :|

88IntegraLS

When I replaced my NA sleeves I used a pair of channel lock pliers to grip the sleeve and pull it against the side of its hole, which exposed a slightly larger gap on the other side, then I used the cutoff wheel and cut through the pin and a slight bit of aluminum on the housing. 2.5 years later and many teardowns later they still look great, other than the little flat spot that the cutoff wheel left on the housing where the sleeve goes. Here are some very old pics from my first time inside a wankel. the flat spot is barely visible in the base of the exhaust hole.








I had a garage back then, man it was nice.

ddub

Interesting.

And my garage time ends Sat Parents get back in town from vacation and I have been told to have my "engine crap" out of the garage by then haha. Gotta put the motor together this week and drop it in, even though the car wont be moving for quite a while longer still.

88IntegraLS

That sucks, sounds like zjbarra's turbo project a few months ago. He ran away from the forum, he hates everyone.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

A great rotary engine builder friend of mine left me with a few words I wish to pass onto you about porting.

Imagine yourself as air/fuel.

My view of the port? Extending the top like that without sloping the bowl just dosent mean a clean flow. All the best ports I have seen use a really clean, smooth flowing port.
This is the intermediate plate right? If I can remember correctly, get a turbo intermediate plate, because theres more meat around the port. This way you can extend the bowl to meet the slope and port closing.

partly mazda

I remember saving the turbo exhaust sleeves out of junk housings by cutting them out of the housings, since they were bad anyway. I would then grind inside the na port sleeve through to the roll pin and tap it through from the outside. This would drive the pin into the port an leave the housing undammaged. It was then very easy to put the turbo sleeves into the na housings.
john

ddub

I have no worries about the flow capabilities of this port, a member by the name of Kahren made 195rwhp (about 500-600rpms BEFORE redline because it was leaning out too much) on this port in n/a form. I have a copy of his templates and am using it for the intermediate, and his stage 2's as a "base" for the aux/secondary. Seemed to work just fine for him.

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

I am familiar with kahren's ports, along with many others I know yourself are. (ITO, 88int, BDC)

This is comming from a 20 year engine builder who regularly pulles over 250hp from 74-76 13b's and 12a's.

But we will see how it works .

ddub

It already works, and it works just fine. Who is this builder exactly? Just curious.

Another long time builder by the name of rotarygod who always has some kind of negative response (at least in some way) towards ports seems to agree with the way Kahren does the ports as well. He said "Kahren knows what he's talking about" and actually promoted that port if I recall, and that's rare for him. He's a long time builder, modifier, tuner, porter, whatever.

Atkins Dan

dDub:
PLEASE check your PM's

ddub

No worries, Dan. No harm no foul

Anyways, working on getting the sleeves out of the housings still, made myself a make-shift slide hammer and am going to be going at them later tonight, also got all my fittings in today for my SS fuel lines and parallel fuel mod. Parts coming in, time to make some progress!

ddub

Well, I used 88IntegraLS's method of cutting through the roll pins with the dremel cutoff wheel on a spare housing I have as practice, and wow!! That was so easy and hardly took any time at all. So I'll be doing this to my good housings tonight and porting them tomorrow, who knows assembly might be happening tomorrow too! The FC still wont make it to the bbq, but oh well

BTW where do you get roll pins at? I need some new ones now to hold in my TII sleeves.

ddub

Haha, someone gave me negative reputation/feedback on this thread 2 days ago, that's cute.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

There's more to ports than just the flow, by doing this you can increase port timing, which works effectively, albeit not flowing the 'greatest'

And who the hell here doesn't have some imaginary friend who just happens to be an experienced engine builder that's built more 350rwhp mild street ported 12A motors? I swear to god everybody's got one!

ddub

So, as I said 88IntegraLS's method worked perfectly, and thanks to Tacoma Screw I got the exact right size roll pin replacements I needed!!

Sleeves in, exhaust ported and smoothed, and assembly will be happening tomorrow so long I can find some hylomar (3 stores I tried were all out ). Also need to find/make a stand for my dial indicator >_<

88IntegraLS

Actually he thinks everyone here is stupid, has blocked everyone on aim and can't stand people who he thinks don't know anything, despite the fact that his own very orthodox style of thought is that which only an education can provide, intuition alone is not enough for him to go on I guess.

It's not really a matter of having a ton of unhappy customers, he just hates everyone. His avatar told the story.

88IntegraLS

classic, zjbarra did not hold you in high regard because of your view on the lack of need for college in order to be capable in the world of techincal subjects, but I recognize a doer when I see his projects.... always an inspiration, the 12 second 6 port turbo was shocking.

ddub

TII sleeves in thanks to some help


Exhaust ported!


Sleeves ported/smoothed!




BTW, Integra, you use AIM?