ehime

iTrader: (18)

My questions have been completely ignored

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

Ehime, I think I can help you with some of this. Tweaks RE has already gone **** up. It decided to go to rotary heaven when an intercooler coupler exploded causing a lean condition and cracking/chipping the apex seals on the front rotor. I believe his next plan is to put the LSx in ASAP. From what I believe he is done trying to use the rotary. Sorry but I am no help about the RacePak IQ3.
Hey Tweak feel free to correct me if I stated anything incorrect.
Rob

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Here is a link to all the info.
http://www.racepak.com/Road_Racing/IQ3.php

I will try and hit on the high points....


In an FD (I think):


Yes, it has data logging. I was reading on the forums, they logged for over 300 laps on their small 2 GB memory stick. They just released an update that will allow you to install 16 GB memory sticks if you need to lol.

Internal 3 axis G force meter. (just plain fun to play with lol)

It uses GPS to calculate your speed, and if you input your transmission's ratios, it will also display what gear you are in. (Based off your speed, and RPM) Again pretty cool.

It has 10 fully programmable shift lights.

You can input, or MAKE your own tracks using GPS, and tell the computer where the start/finish lines are. It will tell you your lap time, AND predict on how far and fast you are currently going, your predicted lap time for the current lap.

It logs and displays all the normal things, RPM, MPH, water temp, oil temp, water pressure, AFR, shock travel, injector duty cycle, blah blah blah, what ever.

(update)
Here are some more things I found it can log and display.
GPS Speed
Lat G
Accel G
Vertical G
Lap Timer (Best Lap)
Fuel Level
Gear
Oil Pressure
Oil Temp
Water Temp Intake
Water Temp OEM
Post IC Air Temp
EGT (Cylinder #4)
Boost
A/F Ratio (Wideband)
Odometer

Also, since there is only so much room on the dash, if one of your sensors start to get higher (water temp or something) it will bring that to the front of the dash to show you something is wrong. (depending on what you set as a warning temp and such).

Pretty awesome unit. They make a version that plugs RIGHT into my haltech. Much more you can do with it, but I am excited to finally get perfect GPS speeds and get rid of all my prosport gauges. (the prosport gauges are AWESOME, but I don't enjoy the look of all the gauges in the pillars and such. :/



Rob, you pretty much nailed it. I am going to crack open the engine this weekend hopefully in Yakima and see what happened. If nothing less then 20 lbs of pure gold and diamonds falls out of the engine, I will start saving up for LSx. If the problem is something I can easily fix (rotor housing is fine, just a single cracked apex) I will fix it and run it while I save up. The millisecond I get to the point where I can sell all my rotary stuff (boost controller, engine, turbo, wastegate, ect.) to equal a LSx swap, it's gone. I hope that was a little more clear.

JordanRykon

iTrader: (1)

^ Thats way cool!

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

my car is an autox car. not dedicated, but at the moment thats all i really use it for
let me tell you the handling is not compromised...
i finally got good tires this year, so i'll finally be able to see how i do against other 'fast' cars.
my current target is jkstill (Jared). he runs a 350whp FD with 285 V710's and decent suspension of some sort.

bosscobra

iTrader: (1)

everyone who hasent done research says "but its gona ruin the cars ballance and handling" if you relocate your battery, and arent running p/s or a/c and lets say you run a lighter carbon hood or something, it actually helps your weight ratio, at least in an fd

bosscobra

iTrader: (1)

oh and the motor doesnt sit really that far ahead of the wheels, and if you want to fix that, cut out a section of the firewall, and close it back in and just set the motor back 3-4 inches, and your back to your perfect "mid engine" configuration

WingsofWar

i also got to ride in a ls7 swapped FD in socal and the balance was actually not that bad. I was actually very surprised and impressed with how it handled and preformed even with very minor suspension mods. But i cant say the same for an FC with an LSx, the balance does get weird in certain areas.

hmmm maybe tweek should just go LSx FD.....hehehehe

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

The rx-7 is 50/50 fullweight with a full tank of gas. Of course these race preped v8 cars with "3/8 tank of gas" are going to be closer to 50/50....

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

actually, if the car was heavier in the front, you would want more gas in the tank to get closer to the 50/50 weight balance. haveing 2/3 of a tank or 1/2 of a tank is actually hurting thier weight balance.

if they were to have a FULL S5 tank it would be much closer to 50/50.

at least thats how i see it..

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

no matter where you add weight it increases weight across all 4 corners. I'm not arguing that it is a well balanced fun car to drive, but the weight is a draw back and a disadvantage to the rotary, there is just no arguing it. It just matters how much of a factor it is. For Tweak it's not a big drawback because he doesn't race in any sanctioned series. He'd be fucked just trying to autoX it because it'd automatically get classed into MOD and he'd be racing tube framed go carts. LOL! But would it make a great street car? **** yes it would.

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

nobody builds these for sanctioned racing.. i dont know why its even an argument.
people build v8 7's for fun. thats it.

Fumi

thanks for continuing to keep this clean guys, i'm glad that everyone is playing nice.
and IIRC S5s were 51/49 idk about S4s though

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Yeup, I again I am not worried about the added front weight for a lot of reasons. It's not that bad, and I think extremely over exaggerated, I have adjustable height coilovers, meaning I will be able to change the weight distribution almost at will (I know the limitations), and I am convinced that the added response of the instant NA power will make up for any handling loss I could ever have. Not to mention my engine will most likely last more than a single drift/autox event every year.

But keep it coming, this is exactly what I am asking for. All factual information. We might be running out of relevant significant information though.

~Tweak

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

My FB has comparatively primitive suspension, and weighs several hundred pounds less than the FC. But with the iron block 302 and Ford AOD trans, I only added 150 pounds, most of which is in the transmission. I deliberately kept the engine forward enough to make the bell housing bolts accessible. Pushing the firewall back is a silly idea unless you are planning to race at LeMans.

All the nonsense about disturbing the balance is just not relevant for street use. My car is not high powered, probably about 275 engine hp, but that is 2 1/2 times the original horsepower and about 3 times the original torque, so I can get oversteer any time I want it with a little throttle. I also have a rotary FB and the two cars are so completely different in the way they feel, it is like driving a completely different car. The automatic trans adds to the different feel, of course. This makes it difficult to compare the handling. Perhaps a very experienced racing driver would be able to separate the handling effects from the power and torque issues, but I cannot.

I did run with the original wheels and tires for a while, and they were totally inadequate. With the BBS Convertible wheels, I am running smaller tires in the front just so I did not have to modify the body - 205/50 front and 225/50 rear. I am SURE you will want the best wheels and tires you can afford. My opinion is that will be more important than any suspension mods you are likely to do. I personally do not like to run anything lower than 50 series tires on the street - no rubber bands for me, thanks I can't afford any more dental work!

z-beater

I bet that my motor is heavier than a LS1.

Tweak, did you blow your motor?

bosscobra

iTrader: (1)

a fully dressed ls1 is only like 30 lbs heavier than a fully dressed rotary, in a street car, your never gona feel that big of a difference, not to mention on an fc there is plenty of places to loose 30 lbs from the front of the car to rebalance it

1Seven4Me

iTrader: (1)

sorry to hear that your engine took a poo on you. hopefully it's something easy to fix so you can make it by for a while...

that said, most of the pros/cons have been addressed in the thread. (I'm glad it's remained civilized)

I'm not familiar with the e11v2 controller, but I know that the stock LS1 computer can be used and tuned to run anything you'd like using the standard OBD2 port, even if you get a wild hair to boost or run giggle gas... not that it's really necessary... a cam can easily put you in the 400+ hp range.

a fair set of instructions (both install & wiring) can be found on grannysspeedshop.com (but it's not perfect... there are some errors and many people deviate from them) along with other parts, I just bought a basic kit and improvised from there. both hinson & grannys make good mount kits at what I believe is a fair price, jagsthatrun (JTR) has a bolt-in radiator kit that eliminates many headaches.

take time to think through every system before laying down money, there are cheaper ways to do everything and still get a great result.... do lots of searching here and on the V8rx7forum.