Yea, right after i took it out of doug's shop i went to find a hood. I'm going later today to look at one.

Oh and I pmed you rotorjoe.

 

I'll see him in a few and we'll check his compression.

 

Thanks Joe for helping me out with the compression testing.

Well it turned out that my front rotor is just fine, but two chambers on the rear were bad. 90,0,0 or 90,20,20, so im going to try some mmo before i call it.

Also Joe your leaking some oil. I saw a puddle after you left.

 

Thanks, I have a slight problem with one of my oil line block off plates I made when I converted from my twins to the single. The damn gasket slipped (I can see it hanging out one side) out and now leaks like a son of a bitch. That is on the list of to-do along with my wastegate and many other items. But thanks for looking out.

We saw 90-90-90 on the front rotor maybe a touch more, its a little tough to tell sometimes. This was with a piston engine comression tester and the cranking RPMs sound strong, more then enought to get good numbers. We then saw very small bounces on the rear, close to 10-10-80. The thing that amazed me was how easly it started.

Yes try some stuck seal procedures but it may be the end of that motors life. Good Luck.

 

Yea, i just tried some mmo in the top spark plugs and in the upper intake manifold, no luck. I didnt leave it on for too long because my neighbors would have been pissed if i kept the smoke up. I'll try again tomorrow morning when they all have left for work.

But im going to have to agree with Joe that it might be the end. Would anyone recommend me to a good rebuilder?

 

Those compression numbers don't sound good. Another quick and dirty way to check is by the good old ear test. With one of the spark plugs out you can listen. On a good rotor you'd hear 3 whooshes. On a bad one you'd hear spinning with maybe one or two whooshes. It' very distinct. You could try pulling off the turbo to check the apex seals to see if they're chipped. Sounds like you have 2 good seals on the bad rotor with one that's stuck or hosed hence giving you low compression on two faces.

 

Actually since you can cut off the fuel, try this:

Turn off the fuel.
Crank the engine for 15-20 seconds.
Do all of the compressions sound the same? If so, you're ok and something else is wrong. If they don't sound the same, ie one or two is "lighter" than the others, then a rebuild is in order.

 

I'll try that tomorrow.

 

oooo ... ooo... who called it? who called it? ....
lol

Sorry about your engine man ...
I'd recommend www.rotaryengine.com

Youll have to pay a little extra in shipping, but its worth it. Or if you want to drive down to pineapple, you could always do that.

 

Let us know if you need any help. If you are going to have to rebuild/replace the motor it may be a good oportunity to do it yourself. Mike does builds but you may want to check with him about what he already has got lined up. You could always buy a JDM engine, but in my opinion it would be better to rebuild your own engine so you know exactly what has been done and waht parts have been used.

 

Yea, i'd like my engine rather to be rebuilt. I just don't have the space to tear it down. Where i live they won't allow me to do such a thing. Most likley it would have to be taken to a shop, or someone that i can trust to help me tear it down and send to a shop or if the person is really knowledgeable enough help me rebuild it there. That would at least save me some money.

 

well, sorry to hear that. i was hopeing for something different. but for a rebuild i would recomend Lopi, especially if you'r ready to do some serious porting and he won't let you put crappy parts in.

Import Auto Repair
Engine, Repairs
Lopie
(360) 753-5887
9611 Littlerock Rd. SW
Olympia, WA 98512

or mike.

or even
PINEAPPLE RACING
www.pineappleracing.com
Rob Golden
12838-B NE Airport Way
Portland, OR 97230
(503) 233-3878
rob@pineappleracing.com
.
good luck on whatever you do. and if you need some help. just ask

 

like that one guy said, id pull the turbo off and inspect the apex seals through the exhaust port,i dont recomend driving it or running it much like that.

no point doing the wooshes thing, the comp tester doesnt lie.

 

Yah, I guess there wouldn't be much of a point to do the whooshes thingy. It'd just be another way of confirming something might be really bad.

 

I have to admit that I have Lopie do the cover swap on my engine. I stood there during the entire process trying to pick up small little things. He is extremely detailed and hit a lot of things that I might have overlooked.

I have also heard really good things about Mike as well. I am not sure about his price but I know that Lopie chargs 600 for the build+parts. Porting depends on size, IIRC street is 200 and bridge is 300. I say spend the extra 100 if you are in there already

 

I am prepared to buy special treated apex seals from japan. The treatment makes the seals more flexable.

 

man if your gonna pony up for apex seals go ceramic... theres nothing better

 

Id probably go Lopie or Pineapple, since Mikey is hard to get a hold of. I had Lopie tune my carb once, and he did it perfecto. I was impressed.

 

use RA seals they might be harsh on the housings, but they are really hard to break!

 

Just stick with OEM (2 piece). When it comes to when I am (someday) going to do a rebuild I'll most likely go with RA or Atkins because I am cheap and because those are the only seals I would trust for the cost. As for housing life I understand that 2mm are the way to go. If you are going to do a rebuild you might as well get it ported while it is all apart. The get the housings powerdercoated metallic gold and silver for bling! LOL!

 

BLING!!! hahaha

Wally I would be interested to have a little more information on those treated seals though.

 

I think Kettlman's got it right.

My first choice would be Lopie.. and it would be a turbo motor all the way.

I don't know the people @ Pineapple. I have heard the do great work. They also have a nice shop. I'll make it out there someday.

Import Auto Repair
Engine, Repairs
Lopie
(360) 753-5887
9611 Littlerock Rd. SW
Olympia, WA 98512

or mike.

or even
PINEAPPLE RACING
www.pineappleracing.com
Rob Golden
12838-B NE Airport Way
Portland, OR 97230
(503) 233-3878
rob@pineappleracing.com

 

Cool guys, thanks for the information.

Here is what i found on those seals

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...category=33620
http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:T...ex+seals&hl=en

 

Yep those would be ceramics!! A couple of ideas tho, for a daily driven street car, you might want to really look into 2pc apex seals, rather than the one piece that you linked us to.

2 piece will give better starting, and better low end power.

Also theres a really great company in australia that makes KILLER ceramic apex seals... great reviews on them. I just cant rememeber who they are now. I'll research it a little bit today and get back to you on that

 

I hear that rx-7 specialties also makes good apex seals. I am not sure of the price, but I believe they are less expensive than stock. The uber FD motor that was built in RX Tuner magazine was built by RX-7 Specialites and used their seals.