Another NW 20B
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 8
From: Mommy’s basement
Another NW 20B
My first 20b front clip arrived at the shop.
I disconnected and stored the ecu's, loaded it onto the trailer then towed it home.
I put a battery to the 20b last night, turned the ignition key on...the turn signal started blinking, the dash lights lit up...I turned the key and the engine turned over.
I was so stoked when it did all that without any of the ecu's hooked up that I turned it off; threw my hands up in the air, claimed victory and went home.
Gambone is going to come over and do a compression check on it sometime soon.

Bob
I disconnected and stored the ecu's, loaded it onto the trailer then towed it home.
I put a battery to the 20b last night, turned the ignition key on...the turn signal started blinking, the dash lights lit up...I turned the key and the engine turned over.
I was so stoked when it did all that without any of the ecu's hooked up that I turned it off; threw my hands up in the air, claimed victory and went home.
Gambone is going to come over and do a compression check on it sometime soon.

Bob
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 8
From: Mommy’s basement
Originally Posted by hoofhearted
My first 20b front clip arrived at the shop.
I disconnected and stored the ecu's, loaded it onto the trailer then towed it home.
I put a battery to the 20b last night, turned the ignition key on...the turn signal started blinking, the dash lights lit up...I turned the key and the engine turned over.
I was so stoked when it did all that without any of the ecu's hooked up that I turned it off; threw my hands up in the air, claimed victory and went home.
Gambone is going to come over and do a compression check on it sometime soon.

Bob
I disconnected and stored the ecu's, loaded it onto the trailer then towed it home.
I put a battery to the 20b last night, turned the ignition key on...the turn signal started blinking, the dash lights lit up...I turned the key and the engine turned over.
I was so stoked when it did all that without any of the ecu's hooked up that I turned it off; threw my hands up in the air, claimed victory and went home.
Gambone is going to come over and do a compression check on it sometime soon.

Bob
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Mommy’s basement
[QUOTE=Metallic_rock][QUOTE=hoofhearted]I'm going to pull the TII engine with zero miles from this...
What are you doing with the TII motor? *thinks it would look good in a 85 GS*
I'm probably going to sell it, but I have not put a price on it yet. I will price it after it is pulled from the TII.
What are you doing with the TII motor? *thinks it would look good in a 85 GS*
Originally Posted by x605p747R1
This threads going to need pics.

Originally Posted by hoofhearted
I'm going to pull the TII engine with zero miles from this...


Before I forget, here's something that screwed me over on my 20B. When you go to remove the turbo and manifold from the engine, the nuts have a crimped end on them. This crimped end can and will cause broken exhaust studs if you try to remove them. No amount of PB Blaster, or whatever the kids are using these days, will work since it's stainless steel on stainless steel with crushed and damaged threads. It's best to take a dremel tool with a small cutting disk and cut all the way around the crimped part. Try not to cut into the studs themselves. If I would have done this step, I wouldn't have had to replace four out of six studs. Drilling out broken exhaust studs is not fun.
Please tell me you're going to get rid of the garbage or uh stock turbos. They weigh 62LBS and provide about 5HP over NA with a TB mod and a tuned standalone (just ask RETed). Sure they can be run sequentially, but they still really suck, and I don't mean that literally.
They're from a friggin luxury car hooked to an automatic tranny. In other words, total blah.
Please tell me you're going to get rid of the garbage or uh stock turbos. They weigh 62LBS and provide about 5HP over NA with a TB mod and a tuned standalone (just ask RETed). Sure they can be run sequentially, but they still really suck, and I don't mean that literally.
They're from a friggin luxury car hooked to an automatic tranny. In other words, total blah.
Last edited by Jeff20B; Apr 12, 2005 at 05:31 PM.
hoofhearted - what are you doing about the front swaybar? Or are you going to get an oilpan that will let you keep the stock one?
I was thinking of going with a 20B over here. But setup as N/A. It'd be a good setup for gymkhana. Plenty of torque and a nice linear powerband. Several other reasons too. Just $1k gets me a whole Cosmo. Before y'all ask - NO! - I'm not buying any for anybody. Mostly the engines get picked and the rest of the car gets tossed away. Sort of like when the states went Beanie Baby crazy. People would buy HappyMeals just for the Beanie Baby and throw away the food.
I was thinking of going with a 20B over here. But setup as N/A. It'd be a good setup for gymkhana. Plenty of torque and a nice linear powerband. Several other reasons too. Just $1k gets me a whole Cosmo. Before y'all ask - NO! - I'm not buying any for anybody. Mostly the engines get picked and the rest of the car gets tossed away. Sort of like when the states went Beanie Baby crazy. People would buy HappyMeals just for the Beanie Baby and throw away the food.
Last edited by Jerk_Racer; Apr 12, 2005 at 11:40 PM. Reason: punctuation~?!
Just get an RETed (anti-) sway bar. It allows you to keep the stock oil pan. I'm not sure what else is required though.
Jerk, my car is getting really close to being done. From what I've felt with a floor jack, my front end is heavier than the rear. I think once I relocate the battery and get some gas in it, it'll even things out a little. I'd still like to try gymkhana but maybe after upgrading the diff.
Jerk, my car is getting really close to being done. From what I've felt with a floor jack, my front end is heavier than the rear. I think once I relocate the battery and get some gas in it, it'll even things out a little. I'd still like to try gymkhana but maybe after upgrading the diff.
I've heard about those. As well as this one place that makes an oilpan that'll clear the stock swaybar. I wonder RETed's bar can be made to order if a specific thickness is desired?
Don't worry too much about the balance. Unlike autocross, gymkhana is more about the driver than the car. I'm sure you'll be better off in the long run if you toughen up the rearend. JUST FINISH IT AND GET IT ON THE F'N ROAD ALREADY!!! Geez, how many years has this been going on?
Yeah, I just probably pissed off a lot of people with that one. But with gymkhana, specific cars are not classified. It's usually how experienced the driver is and how wildly modded a car is. When I say modded, it's not just an exhaust and some wider tires. I'm talking about cars that get trailered/towed to the event because they are simply unstreetable. A couple of months ago the tow top times were a Evo6 and an old Honda Today. There was about a good 300hp difference between these two cars. Not to mention AWD vs FF. It's really about the driver.
Don't worry too much about the balance. Unlike autocross, gymkhana is more about the driver than the car. I'm sure you'll be better off in the long run if you toughen up the rearend. JUST FINISH IT AND GET IT ON THE F'N ROAD ALREADY!!! Geez, how many years has this been going on?

Yeah, I just probably pissed off a lot of people with that one. But with gymkhana, specific cars are not classified. It's usually how experienced the driver is and how wildly modded a car is. When I say modded, it's not just an exhaust and some wider tires. I'm talking about cars that get trailered/towed to the event because they are simply unstreetable. A couple of months ago the tow top times were a Evo6 and an old Honda Today. There was about a good 300hp difference between these two cars. Not to mention AWD vs FF. It's really about the driver.







