Somibue

okay so I dropped my car off for inspection . They also did an oil change . I just picked it up and started it and it smoked white until it warmed up . Then stopped as I let it run . Does anyone know why this has happened . I mean it has happen when I finally got the car up and running the very first start it smoked bad for 30 seconds or less then it was done . Now it smoked really really bad and went away . I just pulled up to my house. I will go out and start it again to see what it does . Thanks again for the help guys

lduley

iTrader: (1)

rebuild, blown coolant seal by the sounds of it

Somibue

It goes away after I start it . There's only 80k miles on it .1987 is the year non turbo . Could it be the oil they used ? Maybe different type or the wrong kind ?

WondrousBread

Are you losing coolant to the overflow bottle (in excessive amounts), or is it vanishing to nowhere? Are you getting high temperatures on the gauge, or strange gurgling sounds coming from the engine bay? Any of these indicate possible coolant seal failure.

It could just be moisture evaporating from the heat if it is rainy or cold out. But it should clear up very quickly.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

mines a 88 with 106K miles on it and I have a bad coolant seal, only way I found out was my check coolant buzzer went off and I never leaked any coolant, did a champagne test, and I have bubbles coming up at idle

This was 2 years ago, I still drive it during the summer, hasn't seemed to of gotten any worse, I just keep up on my coolant

Somibue

it is cold and raining out . I'm losing no coolant at all and nothing in the over flow tank . It's 41 degrees out and raining hard cold . I have owned a lot of different cars in my life and this her . I'm 39 and this was my car I wanted at 16 . lol I'm glad I didn't buy her when I was that age .. That's her a pain in my butt lol ! None the less she's coming together though ..

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

This is copied from another post I made and obviously targeted to the FD, but almost all of it would still apply to your car....

A coolant seal failure is a common problem....at least in the FDs of which I'm familiar. IMO it's the price for forced induction. Boost is power. More power= more heat= more stress. NA rotarys have the problem, but AFAIK, not nearly as soon as the FDs....usually.

Still, before doing anything, make sure you have a failed seal. Besides the 'Champagne test" these are all the symptoms I can think of... but no single symptom by itself is confirmation. Many symptoms could be from other causes. However the more symptoms/conditions you have in combination, the more likely it is a coolant seal failure.........

*Stumbling idle on cold start-up that clears up quickly. The combustion chamber is fouled with coolant. As soon as it's purged or burned up, your car will run fine until the next cold start.
*Slightly sweet exhaust smell, especially on start-up. See above. Coolant is being burned and it has a distinctive smell.
*"White smoke" (steam) on cold start-up even in warm/hot weather. See above.
*A coolant over-flow tank that is over-flowing. This will usually result in a puddle under the car near the right front...the area of the over-flow tank. When coolant gets hot it expands and that's what the overflow tank is for. But with a failed seal the natural vacuum that forms and pulls that coolant back out as the engine cools down is lost. That leaves that coolant stranded in the tank and eventually it overflows.
*Coolant loss that isn't explained by a puddle on your garage floor. It's being consumed by the engine and going out the exhaust.
*Spiking temps that seemingly recover on their own almost as quickly. Air pockets in the cooling system allow steam to form. That will cause temp spiking. This is different than a rising temp just after a period of hard boost. It can happen as your steadily cruising down the highway.
*Boiling sounds after shut down even shortly after properly "burping" the system. See above.
*Failed coolant system pressure test.
*Failed test of coolant for hydrocarbons.
*Unusually clean plugs, or wet plugs if you pull them right away after starting the car. (Sometimes you can even smell the coolant)
*One or more episodes of serious overheating in the car's history regardless of miles. (from what I've read, 115 C./240 F. seems to be the critical number for OEM seals to begin to degrade)
*An otherwise well maintained and cared-for FD approaching 100K miles or so.

As for a bandaid, some have used one of the many "Stop-Leak" coolant additives to give them a bit more time but use at your own risk. While it's not anything that will leave you on the side of the road, a failed coolant seal can lead to errosion/rust/pitting of the coolant seal grooves in the irons. That can cause a junk iron and make the inevitiable rebuild more expensive.


This might also be of interest...
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...g-car-1062385/

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Edit

Somibue

I think I'll have the pressure safe just to make sure it's okay . It fires up first turn of the key . There is no gurgling noise after shutting the car off . The over flow is fine and my levels for coolaint are good as well. I just went out to start it and it didn't smoke this time however . I live in pa and it's been raining for the last week and we had snow warnings it's 39 degrees out side right now and pissing rain . In the cars life time it over heated one time and that was with me when I was fixing the heater core and the clamp busted on me . I believe if it is the seal it's probably a small leak right now . Do you know how much a repair would cost for someone to fix that if I have someone else do it . I'm mechanicaly inclined I would prefer doing it my self and learning more on how a rotary motor works . In the past I have rebuild a few motors in older muscle cars . Thanks again guys for the help

WondrousBread

It requires a full teardown and rebuild, but some people have had temporary success by using Alumaseal ( or similar products). Really this only puts off the rebuild and gives you some time to save your money.

Cost varies depending on exactly which parts need to be replaced, and which can be reused.

I wouldn't panic though, do the pressure test first and then decide. If your cooling system holds pressure, then your seals are fine.

Somibue

Okay so I also read to much oil will make it smoke also . So tomorrow I will be checking and seeing how much oil they put in my car . Normally I do all my own oil changes and maintenance on my vehicles . Except my cars that have warranties . I also check after I get an oil change from the shop. Right now I have so much going on it slipped my mind and I never even checked when I picked up the car . So if it's a case of too much oil I will be redoing it or making my buddies shop redo it .

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

OP...this is how it works:

Black smoke = too much fuel, running rich
Blue smoke = burning oil
White smoke = STEAM...not oil, not fuel, STEAM. Coolant is about 50% water. When it burns it produces STEAM or white smoke. It also has a smell to it described above that's pretty unique.

So unless you haven't accurately described what's coming out of your tail pipes, it has nothing to do with the oil change.

Somibue

so I always let my cars warm up before I drive them . It's an old habit but a good one . As I started it nothing at all plus the suns out it's also a lot warmer out . No more smoke then my caddy in the morning lol from the tail pipe . My oil levels are a bit high also .. nothing drastic . Thanks again guys

WayneBrady

iTrader: (4)

everytime ive had my fc at a shop they've flooded it with gas really bad. after i got it started both times there were huge plumes of white smoke. never seen this on my car before or since. maybe something similar happened to yours?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

If it was white smoke, it wasn't flooded.

Somibue

will a Sony double din 7 inch fit in 87 rx7

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Yes..it will fit into a Rx7 with white smoke shooting out of it.

Are you worried about your stereo or the fact that your engine is not operating correctly?

You need to pressure test your cooling system..worry about decibel levels when you get your car operational.

Somibue

The white smoke stopped and no matter what goes on i still need a stereo in the car lol there a giant hole . The following day I started it and it was warmer out . I really don't think it's anymore then condensation build up . Plus I just had my oil changed I was reading if that's too much smoke will come out the car .. also . And if it starts to do it again and doesn't stop and continues I'll just do the tear down figure out what I need and rebuild . ...

WondrousBread

Don't just do a teardown, get a pressure test first. No sense rebuilding what could be a perfectly good engine. Also, as stated above, burning oil is blue smoke, not white steam.

The stereo will mount provided you have the brackets that came with the stock stereo. They have plenty of places for screws, so most stereos will fit into the bracket, but without the bracket there is no way to mount the stereo in the car.

Somibue

okay so here's my day went out before work started her up and no smoke at all nothing . Now on lunch break I went out before lunch started it to let it run and a little bit of white smoke again out of both tail pipes . So this went on for 1 minute and stopped. Driving it nothing comes out also . Plus I'm not losing any coolaint at all and the over fill is empty also . And yes before I do anything there will be pressure tests done and go from there . Before a tear down. There was Castro's 20/50 in it they put 30/40 in it I don't think that's too bad

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

What was the temperature outside? Probably nothing wrong. Condensation.


And it's not smoke, it's steam. And it has nothing to do with the viscosity or brand of oil the shop put in it.

Somibue

Sorry guys for saying things wrong or trying to describe things the wright way . It was cold out again and has been cold out . . Just please bare with me here I promise I'll learn all the lingo I swear ! Lol . It's sunny but around 36 degrees maybe 40 plus mid afternoon . So steams going to be coming out of the tail pipe from time to time when it's cold out?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Your "overflow bottle" has a Level that should be maintained...it has marks on it..Cold and HOT.
Make sure your bottle HAS coolant in it as the System either pulls coolant out of that bottle If it needs it or pushes it in out when the engine coolant expands when it gets warm.
The ONLY reason that bottle is there is to catch excess and IF the system overflows then at least you got SOME left and it is like the proverbial "OH ****" moment..you should notice the steam off the engine before it's totally toasting itself.(meaning shut down before you cook the damn engine!)

Somibue

all my coolant levels are fine and the car has only over heated one time . And this was while ago because of my heater core crapping the bed on me and replacing it . I know what the over fills for and that's fine as well . I'm not leaking or losing any fluids . The steam is not happening every time I start the car . The last two weeks our temps have become kinda cold out . I woke up to the windows yesterday morning with frost on them and it didn't steam out the tail pipes . However lunch time it did it . For about a minute . Then stopped . I have only driven it twice since I got it back from the shop . This weekend I'll check pressures and go from there. It's either a small leak some were or just cold out and that's why it's doing it ...

Somibue

okay guys the last couple days it's been really nice out and no steam at all . I'm going to assume that it was the weather . Sorry for wasting your time guys . I just want to make sure it's nothing major . I'm still going to do pressure test just too be 100% positive . Thanks again guys for the help/advice