If removing all emissions doesn't affect boost levels then no tuning should be necessary.

 

Thanks guys, i have the engine stripped down to the block. Im just waiting til payday(friday) so i can buy an engine stand and the big *** 52mm socket to get to the stuff that matters. Ill post up pics of everything once thats all done

 

FIFTY FOUR Millimeter..not fifty 2..
Or 2 and one eighth inch socket.

 

omg thanks that could of been awkward

 

Adam at rx7 specialties in Calgary has good used engine parts selection, new also, once you see what you need. great to find things within Canada with the American exchange being what it is right now. Good thread

 

Thanks ill look into that once i get this flywheel nut off, had to order one online as nowhere has it. My turbo chra needs a rebuild and the turbine fins are slightly chipped and need to be replaced to keep it balanced. I live on vancouver island in bc canada and need to send it off somewhere to get fixed. Anyone know anyone who can do this? And do it properly? If i have to send it accross the states i can

 

Its not terrible but its room for error

 

No one that I know of has successfully rebuilt the stock turbos and had them last. If that's what you have and the single is like the twins, figure replacements. Be careful buying used.

 

Well if not rebuilding the stock turbo then what would you recommend?? I hear these turbos are pretty good up to 12~ psi so no real need to upgrade any time soon. Im all for a turbo upgrade but the car is no where near ready for boost upgrades til i get everything else up to par.

 

Is this worth reusing or should i get a new bearing installed?
And the chips here are about 5 mm from the edge. This is supposed to be the good housing but from what i hear it shouldnt be used. Had good compression though. Im gonna have to source out a rotor that will work with a B rotor and some housings. Rx7 specialties in alberta has refurbished housings for about $200, any idea if they will work as good as brand new ones?

 

https://www.google.ca/search?client=...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
This place has a 54 mm socket for the flywheel.

 

Your bearing in that rotor is fine, leave it

That housing looks pretty good to me IMO

 

that applies to the HT15 in the FD, not the FC HT18S, completely different turbo and yes, ours last when rebuilt.

no matter what anyone sais, no they will not. reconditioned housings do fill the gap for those who can live with slightly subpar compression for a bit less money. but i would be a bit skeptical of what you'd get in a "refurburbished housing" for $200. most of us charge nearly that just to recondition a housing not including giving you the part. for the record, it takes me almost 3 hours to media blast a rotor housing, not including the resurfacing process.

 

Any luck buying used? Or should i just cough up the extra money and buy new ones

 

And do you think the hosing is reusable even though it has 5mm of chipping?

 

i certainly wouldn't suggest it. used is a crap shoot, you need lots of thorough pictures and an honest seller. new is the best option, but be prepared to donate organs.

 

I guess i know where my tax return is going. 👍
as i stated earlier ive never gotten a chance to drive the car myself as it had been blown by the previous owner, the guy that had it 2 months prior left in his notes : "this is oil pressure squeaze out oil pressure drops to 5 at idle. Etc and low oil pressure" on another page "at idle 5psi at 3000 rpm 20-30 psi" "rx7 club explained squees out should be ok as long as i dont race it all the time at high rpms"
im no expert but low oil pressure is low oil pressure and should not be ignored. Anyone care to elaborate what this is and how i can fix it? Its an old guys notes, he was very thourough but doesnt make sense most of the time

 

the stock gauge isn't very accurate, so it depends if he checked it with the factory gauge or an aftermarket one.

 

Theres an aftermarket guage

 

Im going to get a new boost gauge and an air fuel gauge to see if it tries to leanout at all, any i should avoid?

 

So i thought id just throw in an update, i rebuilt the engine successfully and am going to be testing the end play today.

I used 2 rotor housings and 1 fd used rotor as well as oil control rings that i got from rx7 specialties in calgary.
atkins gasket set
Atkins springs and hard seals
Goopy performance apex seals

Im waiting for a dial indicator to come in the mail right now and have been screwing around with the engine since (cleaning things getting it ready).
Im having a little issue with the injector diffusers.
They came out easy but i cant remove the old o rings to replace them with new ones as theyre hard as rock. I know these are fragile and dont want to break them, is there a way i can just replace the one o ring that slides off the end and leave the rest? Also when re inserting is there a direction the diffuser must face?
And i ordered turbo parts to replace the turbine in the ht18 and to fix the play in the shaft, but its going to need to be balanced. Anyone know where i can send it? Preferably in canada?
Thanks to everyone whos been more than helpful! I couldnt have done this without you and this forum 🤘

 

No specific recollection but I think defuser position is shown in th manual. I'd try to replace them all.
Best of luck, but NO ONE I've ever known has had much success in rebuilding the stock turbos and had them last long at all. And they're such a pita to change with the engine in the car...not to mention risk of exhaust studs breaking and the cost of gaskets. Just sayin'.

 

To be honest as long as the turbo does what its supposed to long enough for me to have the car able to safely handle a bigger turbo im okay with that.
It just needs the injectors,
fuel pump,
ignition(fc1000???maybe?),
radiator,
fmic,
ecu (still have no idea what to do for an ecu),
A wideband and air fuel gauge is a good idea
Some other things i cant think of, but has to be done before i upgrade to a bigger turbo

As for the o rings on the diffusers, is there a substance i could soak them in that would degrade the rubber?

 

So i got the o rings off. They were rock hard but with a torch and a razor blade i melted it enough to split it