what to do after buying a used RX-7
what to do after buying a used RX-7
Hi. I just bought a 88 RX-7. I know there are a number of things that one should do when you've purchased a RX-7. Like various fluid changes, and TPS adjustment? The one I bought has been sitting for a while.
The RX-7 is pretty different from my previous car so I just want to know what fluid changes/checking needs to be done and what are the recommended fluids. I couldn't find basic DIYs in the faq thread.
Is the TPS adjustment necessary if the car seems to drive fine? Also, the hatch light is always one, I tried to release the hatch and close it back. It is still on.
The RX-7 is pretty different from my previous car so I just want to know what fluid changes/checking needs to be done and what are the recommended fluids. I couldn't find basic DIYs in the faq thread.
Is the TPS adjustment necessary if the car seems to drive fine? Also, the hatch light is always one, I tried to release the hatch and close it back. It is still on.
Someone please correct me if im wrong, but I have always seen pulling the bottom plugs and check for water signs. Also, take a soda bottle, make into a make shift funnel, pour water into coolant sytem. over fill so it sits a good amount in the bottle. With car running look for bubbles in bottle. This is caused by a bad coolant seal. It should be in youtube called champagne test.
the rx7 isn't alien. fluid, filter and belt changes r no different than any other vehicle. this includes keeping levels checked on a regular basis and don't over rev the engine.
Someone please correct me if im wrong, but I have always seen pulling the bottom plugs and check for water signs. Also, take a soda bottle, make into a make shift funnel, pour water into coolant sytem. over fill so it sits a good amount in the bottle. With car running look for bubbles in bottle. This is caused by a bad coolant seal. It should be in youtube called champagne test.
full tune up. plugs, wires, fluids, filters, if you feel risky replace the vacuum lines and maybe have the injectors serviced.
as to the hatch light flip the switch on it and see if that changes it
as to the hatch light flip the switch on it and see if that changes it
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1. begin obvious repairs
2. carry on with the multiple additional required repairs discovered while completing step 1
3. CHANGE YOUR OIL OFTEN!!
4. drive it like it's glass when cold, drive it like you stole it once it's up to temp. operating at a low RPM all the time can cause carbon build up, and i think we all know why cold revving an engine is not a good thing...
also use dino oil. synthetics may or may not be healthy for the engine and with the frequency of changes (i find myself changing it every ~8000KM, or after adding 2-2.5 quarts to replace what gets burned off) you might as well use the cheaper conventional oil anyway. it will not make a difference. i run 15-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter. works fine. use a good filter like K&N (they are quite expensive but very much worth it from my experience)
definitely use synthetic in the trans+rear end. that should be good for at least 50,000km and winter will not affect it
use the reccomended NGK spark plugs. dont use more expensive ones thinking they'll work better or last longer.
make sure you install them into the proper holes as leading and trailing have different temp ranges. (leading are the bottom 2 plugs, trailing are the top 2)
and never ever let the thing overheat. always make sure the cooling system is in top working order with clean fresh fluid and no leaks or worn hoses/belts/
2. carry on with the multiple additional required repairs discovered while completing step 1
3. CHANGE YOUR OIL OFTEN!!
4. drive it like it's glass when cold, drive it like you stole it once it's up to temp. operating at a low RPM all the time can cause carbon build up, and i think we all know why cold revving an engine is not a good thing...
also use dino oil. synthetics may or may not be healthy for the engine and with the frequency of changes (i find myself changing it every ~8000KM, or after adding 2-2.5 quarts to replace what gets burned off) you might as well use the cheaper conventional oil anyway. it will not make a difference. i run 15-40 in the summer and 10-30 in the winter. works fine. use a good filter like K&N (they are quite expensive but very much worth it from my experience)
definitely use synthetic in the trans+rear end. that should be good for at least 50,000km and winter will not affect it
use the reccomended NGK spark plugs. dont use more expensive ones thinking they'll work better or last longer.
make sure you install them into the proper holes as leading and trailing have different temp ranges. (leading are the bottom 2 plugs, trailing are the top 2)
and never ever let the thing overheat. always make sure the cooling system is in top working order with clean fresh fluid and no leaks or worn hoses/belts/
Last edited by Cordt; Oct 8, 2010 at 10:00 PM.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
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