Toofer89

Hi everyone,

My 87 turbo II is currently stock and I would like to start collecting parts over the winter to get my build going. My question to you is could you suggest a turbo for me? I am somewhat new to turbo applications so I do get lost a little bit in the terminology.

What I want from my turbo is for it to fit this Turblown manifold:

FC3S Rx-7 Turbo Manifold - Turblown Engineering

I will be modding my car somewhat slowly in stages. So what I want from a turbo is something that is NOT internally waste-gated and will bolt up to the above manifold. I am NOT looking to make crazy power, I actually just want to run between stock and 10psi of boost.

Ideally I would like a turbo matched to this manifold that would allow me to continue running stock injectors/pump for now and use an Rtek 1.5 to control things. I am not ruling out running the Rtek 1.7 with 720cc secondaries.

I have no horsepower goal for this, my goal is simply to use this manifold because I like where it places the turbo and will allow me to upgrade the turbo and supporting fuel mods in the future. In the spring I hope to be installing the turbo, manifold, exhaust, front mount intercooler, and a couple gauges to keep an eye on everything.

Thanks,

-Mike

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

That manifold would be overkill for anything run by a RTEK 1.5.
The 1.5 runs the stock injectors and anything that attaches to that turbo would not use anything close to stock fuel numbers.
A decent setup,in my opinion,if you are not looking at "crazy power" would be a nice T04S,a Cast manifold,something over a 38mm wastegate(44?)..3 inch downpipe and decent exhaust.
say 550 to 750 Injectors on Primary,1200 or so on Secondary.
ECU would have to be an after market as there is not really anything worthwhile that you can use to run all this new stuff.(Even a RTEK 2.0 would be borderline).
You can pick up say a Haltech Sprint RE ECU(*cheap and effective..also newer to the old E6X and E6K versions) ..BUT You need to know HOW to tune all this stuff to make it work.It's not exactly slap on and go stuff that we are talking about any more.
Y0u would be doing yourself a favor to find a good Rotary Tuner(shop) as the tuning is where the magic happens.

This addition of parts should really be researched further by you.
Look at the Single turbo threads and the Build section threads and those 2 sections alone can give you a good idea of what would work and what problems can arise if you do not watch what you are doing.

*By the way,the biggest problem,per say,would be the MONEY..all this stuff to gain speed will make your Finances plummet quickly,so make sure that you get it right the first time as any buying mistakes mean you gotta buy again..and that is more costly.

..and STICK with the "plan" and don't change your mind half way..,that adds up too!

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

TDX57 JB .84

Turblown TDX Series Turbochargers

Use the 7 psi springs for the wastegates as a starting point.

Fueling wise you are going to need to look at some sort of upgrade off the bat just to be on the safe side.

I believe OEM injectors with a standalone hit 100% duty cycle at 11psi on a stock turbo + a cooler day. That is with a bigger fuel pump too. Fuel curve will probably not be identical between a stock turbo map and a bigger one even at low boost.

If funds allow it you could pickup an Adaptronic Modular FC PNP ECU( $1349).

TitaniumTTRE

Helltech E(anything) is a recipe for a blown rotary. They have the worst interpretation of VR signals that I have ever seen. When it shows clean on an o-scope, and the "data-log" using that term incredibly loosely here shows
4000
4050
4100
4150
16000
16000
16000
16000
16000
16000
16000
4300
4350
One should realize there is an issue. Yet people still buy and use them on FI rotaries.
RTek is also an ECU that I would never rec for anything other than an NA

TitaniumTTRE

The newer stuff coupled with an FFE Hall effect kit seems to rather accurate as I've installed and tuned more than a few

Toofer89

Thanks all for the responses! I will officially kick the Rtek idea as it looks like it will not meet my needs/wants. It looks like most of my original post was wishful thinking haha. Funny how an entire build starts because you wanted to put an exhaust on your car lol. But I'm excited to dig in and build something I like.

There’s a lot of useful info here and after doing a little digging today, I think for now I am going with Turblown's suggestions.

I found the modular PNP ECU for FD's, They look great! Is getting one for the FC just stateing you have an FC at the time of order so it comes with the correct connections? Does the modular unit allow for VE tuning like the other Adaptronic models ( to get basetunes/cruising tunes)?

***EDIT maybe the "Adaptronic Series 4/5/6/7 RX-7 plug and play" is what I'm looking for? At the following link:

http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=280

I have been interested in adaptronics for a while and definitely had planned to go that route when time for a standalone came (even though I didn't think it would be this soon!)

Any suggestions for what size injectors to look at for something like this using the TDX57 turbo? First thing that came to mind was Injector Dynamics 725cc primarys and 1000cc secondaries.

Tuning will for sure be the biggest hurdle as there are not many rotary tuners in my area of the country. I do know a couple rotary guys, and have access to some great automotive performance resources though. Adaptronic looks to be pretty user friendly, hopefully with enough research and some tinkering it won’t be a problem to use.

keep the info coming!

Thanks again,

-Mike

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If I am not mistaken there is a guy that sells Adaptronic that can do a "wireless tune up"..(wizardry I tell ya!!!)
You will have to look into that as I have no skin in your game!..
..and if memory serves me correct the ID's have different connectors after a certain CC of flow.
My thinking is if you decide to change out then get the injector that can use that connector so you do not have to change them out.
The 750/1000's had a different connector than the 2000's did.
NOW if you find that the 725's use the same connector as the 1000 then you can rightfully adjust the injector duty cycle and run the 1000's..
I had 1000/2000 on my Haltech PS1000 setup...S5 TII engine.