thinkn bout drivn cross country, got some questions
12-12-10, 05:48 PM
#1
86 fc3s base model
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thinkn bout drivn cross country, got some questions
k, i gota few q's, might sound pretty dumb...
im workin with an 86 n/a (s4 i think)...stock, aside from some springs n rims previous owner put on.
did most of the tune up stuff...starts up(a little harder than prefered but it starts)
runs good, idle at 750 +- 25...virtually no jumping at accel or decel...
takes longer than i would like for it to warm up to good idle....
heres how it goes(in the morning especially):
kinda hard start
kinda some smoke...everyonce in awhile at the very beginning smells a tiny bit like syrup, then nothin but exuast/unburnt fuel smell...
then it stops smokin, like 60sec max(not as bad as it used to)
revs to 15 as per AWS then stays there for roughly 2mins
then bounces a little(also not as bad as it used to) between 13 n 15 for ~another 2 mins
then slowly drops down to 750, i watch the ?thermowax? slowly come out and contact what i think to be
the fast idle cam...thats when it makes it to the 750 range
total time to warm up is bout 10mins, smoke only within first min.
does that sound close to normal? havent done a compression test yet, gettin ready to do a rebuild
after i drive it cross country to ohio, there i got a warm garage, tools, etc.
2 other things on my mind, one i think i can take care of via FSM but wanted a little more
insight on b4 i go messin w things idk too much about yet
one is the notches on my main pulley are off by a bit...lets say the pin is 1o'clock then
we'll call the 'yellow' notch is at ~10:30
i know there are some things that i should test/adjust b4 i start messin with the CAS and the pulley...not sure what those things might be
i got a simple light assembly i put together for diagnosis blinks, lights work but i didnt pull any codes,
figured thats a good thing, anyway i think i can use that light for Tps check? seen some arguments bout usin the light vs. a DMM, and i heard theres a third way to check, not sure what that is, but i wana use all three methods or at least two so i dont care which ones better, they both have there ups n downs im sure...
so can someone maybe point me to a link that will describe how exactly to do those tests?maybe dumb it down some?
also i think the FID n themowax are involved in somthin b4 i wrk w the CAS n pully...and i guess i need a timing light too? might need a link bout how to use that too...? y'see my idle is good after warm up so im kinda weary bout startin to change things, dont want to make it worse, only better...not exactly sure how the spark advance system works either...?
i searched around for a bit n found that mostly people needin to adjust timing n tps are the ppl that have done rebuilds or porting...thats not my case, its orig w 150k mi on it.
any help in this would be very much appreciated...
the other thing concerning me is some pretty nasty sludge comin out both the bypass coolant hose nipple at the
h2o pump(next to the water thermo sensor) and out of the nipple to the coolant hose comin out the thermowax
area goin down to the top of the back iron...not only did i find sludge but the nipples were a little rusted too...but i dont over heat, so its getting flow?
i dont think i can find info on that in the FSM, and i tried searchin many different ways for someone that might have had the same thing, with no luck, so
i decided to post n figured as long as i stay with in new member tech, i wont get bashed too much.
thank so much to whoever takes care of this forum site, and the people that help spread knowledge about the things we love....love what you guys provide for all of us.
im workin with an 86 n/a (s4 i think)...stock, aside from some springs n rims previous owner put on.
did most of the tune up stuff...starts up(a little harder than prefered but it starts)
runs good, idle at 750 +- 25...virtually no jumping at accel or decel...
takes longer than i would like for it to warm up to good idle....
heres how it goes(in the morning especially):
kinda hard start
kinda some smoke...everyonce in awhile at the very beginning smells a tiny bit like syrup, then nothin but exuast/unburnt fuel smell...
then it stops smokin, like 60sec max(not as bad as it used to)
revs to 15 as per AWS then stays there for roughly 2mins
then bounces a little(also not as bad as it used to) between 13 n 15 for ~another 2 mins
then slowly drops down to 750, i watch the ?thermowax? slowly come out and contact what i think to be
the fast idle cam...thats when it makes it to the 750 range
total time to warm up is bout 10mins, smoke only within first min.
does that sound close to normal? havent done a compression test yet, gettin ready to do a rebuild
after i drive it cross country to ohio, there i got a warm garage, tools, etc.
2 other things on my mind, one i think i can take care of via FSM but wanted a little more
insight on b4 i go messin w things idk too much about yet
one is the notches on my main pulley are off by a bit...lets say the pin is 1o'clock then
we'll call the 'yellow' notch is at ~10:30
i know there are some things that i should test/adjust b4 i start messin with the CAS and the pulley...not sure what those things might be
i got a simple light assembly i put together for diagnosis blinks, lights work but i didnt pull any codes,
figured thats a good thing, anyway i think i can use that light for Tps check? seen some arguments bout usin the light vs. a DMM, and i heard theres a third way to check, not sure what that is, but i wana use all three methods or at least two so i dont care which ones better, they both have there ups n downs im sure...
so can someone maybe point me to a link that will describe how exactly to do those tests?maybe dumb it down some?
also i think the FID n themowax are involved in somthin b4 i wrk w the CAS n pully...and i guess i need a timing light too? might need a link bout how to use that too...? y'see my idle is good after warm up so im kinda weary bout startin to change things, dont want to make it worse, only better...not exactly sure how the spark advance system works either...?
i searched around for a bit n found that mostly people needin to adjust timing n tps are the ppl that have done rebuilds or porting...thats not my case, its orig w 150k mi on it.
any help in this would be very much appreciated...
the other thing concerning me is some pretty nasty sludge comin out both the bypass coolant hose nipple at the
h2o pump(next to the water thermo sensor) and out of the nipple to the coolant hose comin out the thermowax
area goin down to the top of the back iron...not only did i find sludge but the nipples were a little rusted too...but i dont over heat, so its getting flow?
i dont think i can find info on that in the FSM, and i tried searchin many different ways for someone that might have had the same thing, with no luck, so
i decided to post n figured as long as i stay with in new member tech, i wont get bashed too much.
thank so much to whoever takes care of this forum site, and the people that help spread knowledge about the things we love....love what you guys provide for all of us.
12-14-10, 11:17 PM
#2
first thing i would do is flush the cooling system and do an oil change. next, inspect the plugs and wires, air filter, replace the fuel filter, check the belts for cracks and glazing, and check the coolant hoses for softness and cracks.
i would then check and adjust the tps per the fsm, as engine bouncing could be caused by a tps out of adjustment or a faulty bypass air control valve or one that is carboned up. as far as the timing is concerned, i would leave it alone. if it runs well with no detonation or spark knock, no overheating or abnormally poor fuel economy, leave it be. with the tps adjustment, i would stick to the two light method and the home made two bulb checker.
i would then check and adjust the tps per the fsm, as engine bouncing could be caused by a tps out of adjustment or a faulty bypass air control valve or one that is carboned up. as far as the timing is concerned, i would leave it alone. if it runs well with no detonation or spark knock, no overheating or abnormally poor fuel economy, leave it be. with the tps adjustment, i would stick to the two light method and the home made two bulb checker.
12-15-10, 05:13 PM
#3
86 fc3s base model
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ive already changed alot of stuff including all that you mentioned....i thought that if i were to adjust the tps i would also have to adjust the fast idle cam and cas/timing for it all to corrispond with each other to have somwhat of a proper tune, idk still kinda new to all this.?
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