stuck auxiliary port valve. Tips on freeing or replacing?
#1
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stuck auxiliary port valve. Tips on freeing or replacing?
I have a 135k mile 87 non turbo rX7. It runs great and shows 100 psi warm cranking compression avg on one rotor and 105 on the other, with all 6 pulses even.
But one auxiliary port actuator (whatever the correct name is for it, the vacuum pod thing that opens the auxilaries) is stuck, and has probably been so for some time. The other one moves and appears to be working, you can see the shaft of the valve is worn smooth from moving in the bushing.
Any tips on freeing the stuck auxiliary port actuator? Is this something that can typically be freed up or am I looking at a likely replacement. Any tips on where to get one is appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
But one auxiliary port actuator (whatever the correct name is for it, the vacuum pod thing that opens the auxilaries) is stuck, and has probably been so for some time. The other one moves and appears to be working, you can see the shaft of the valve is worn smooth from moving in the bushing.
Any tips on freeing the stuck auxiliary port actuator? Is this something that can typically be freed up or am I looking at a likely replacement. Any tips on where to get one is appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
#3
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i have been soaking it for the entire weekend in p'blaster. Do these typically freeze along the rotating shaft that goes into the housing? It looks like the piston part rides on plastic and can't freeze there. Thanks
Steve
Steve
#4
Too old for this
If the actuator piston is off of the manifold, the crank on the manifold should turn easily between the stops. If you can't turn that, the sleeve may be stuck in the housing. If that's the case, you'll have to take off the LIM to get the sleeve out. To check the actuator, try putting air pressure into the back of the piston and see if it moves. You can use an air compressor, but go easy, the pistons only need about 5psi. If it's the actuator piston that's bad, you can probably find a used one cheap.
#6
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I ended up finding that both the valve and the sleeve in the manifold were stuck pretty solid. I was able to free up the valve with a lot of force and penetrating oil, and I also was able to free up the sleeve without having to remove the manifold, by cranking on it a little at a time with vice grips. I can see from the grease being wiped off the whole length of the actuator shaft when I drive, that both auxiliaries are functioning properly now. Right around 5000 rpms I can feel a slight transition and then the power comes on stronger, with the auxiliaries working now. Yeay!
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