Robftw

iTrader: (1)

It usually does this when the car first starts up, after i drive it for a while it seems to go away. However sometimes when i cold start it this doesn't happen at all.

I don't know much about rotaries yet, but i zoomed in on a green plastic part under the intake. Could this be the cause of it? it is completely broken in half if anyone could help me figure out whats going on with this it would be greatly appreciated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt199woURos


Here is a video after i drove it around for a while, as you can see it disappears

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LjLerra2gOM

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The green thing is a one-way check valve in the line to the double throttle diaphragm. The diaphragm is supposed to have vacuum applied to it once the engine warms up, but the things have almost always failed at this point. Check to see if the secondary throttle plates are open with the engine off. If they are, the diaphragm has failed. It's not a big deal though; you won't know the difference, and a lot of people remove the secondary plates entirely. But if the check valve is broken, you probably have a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks and TPS problems can cause a hunting/bouncing idle.

satch

iTrader: (1)

As "RR88" suggests, you possibly have a vacuum leak with that fractured piece. You can just remove it and plug up both hose lines. If that doesn't fix your cold start idle then adjust your TPS to 1 volt DC. If that doesn't solve the bumpy cold start idle then try adjusting the Variable Resistor upon cold start until the bouncing stops dead in its tracks. Use the "advanced search function for TPS and focus on setting it using the voltage method and not any other method. If the Variable resistor needs adjustment then you'll have to jumper a two wire green plug located between the driver side headlight and the leading coil. There is also another green plug that is larger right near the smaller plug. Focus on the smaller plug as you need to jumper this smaller one (not the larger one). To jumper the plug take a short lengthed wire that is bare at both ends and place each end of the jumper wire into both of the terminals of the two wire (green initial set coupler is its given name) and then go to the Variable Resistor while the car is bouncing and adjust screw until it stops. The screw of this device will only turn so much so be careful of this so as not to break it. The screw turns clockwise to increase the richness of the fuel mixture and the screw turned in the other direction decreases the richness of the fuel mixture (less rich or more lean). Remember to remove the jumper wire afterwards if you need to adjust this component. Afterwards fully warm up the car and report back with what the car idles at. If this resistor needs adjusment I am going to guess that it needs to be turned counterclockwise. Before adjustment put a piece of tape down that you could put a mark on it that identifies where the slot in the screw is to begin with in case you need to turn it back to where it was originally before adjustment.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Well i plugged both holes and the problem seemed to go away, i don't want to repeatedly start the car, so i'll let you know what happens throughout the week.

Also, i need to replace the pressure power steering line do i need to remove the pump to access the lower attachment point, or can i gain access to it by removing the front plastic engine cover on the underside?

blindboxx2334

iTrader: (2)

Any update on this?

My buddy is having a problem with his currently too. except it idles fine when it starts up, and is cold, but it seems like the more you drive it around the more it does exactly what yours does when its cold. and it actually dies.. anyone care to help me out?

sorry i dont mean to thread jack. i just wanted to know if it was the same issue as you have

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

After driving it around for a bit during the day the problem has seemed to disappear, is this line of any major importance?

satch

iTrader: (1)

No.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

As I already explained, the double throttle system is all but useless. Cap the vacuum source on the UIM, and remove the lines to the thermovalve and diaphragm. I think the thermovalve can even be unscrewed from the TB to clean things up further. There shouldn't be a water source going to it; I think it just works off of heat transferred through the casting.