Sticky front rotor. Help please
#1
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Sticky front rotor. Help please
K so I took my car to a rotor shop to get all the vacuum hoses changed. That's all done. Now it won't start. It has been sitting there for about 9 days pulled apart. Could this have caused a rotor to stick and not start? She said it probly is a sticky rotor. As checked all the coils n they all have spark. Anyone know? The front rotor bottom plug had a bit of carbon buid up on it and the plugs are only 2 months old. Any one help please?
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In 9 days,no.
Try the "deflooding procedure",which you can find 1000's of posts on.(I'd do it for you but you need to be able to fly sometime!)
Try the "deflooding procedure",which you can find 1000's of posts on.(I'd do it for you but you need to be able to fly sometime!)
#4
Look at your fuel system pressure. Look at your vacuum signal at the fuel pressure regulator. Something might have got mixed up and your fuel pressure is too high.
Needless to say. Always change plugs after an engine is de flooded.
Needless to say. Always change plugs after an engine is de flooded.
#5
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I've never heard of a sticky rotor. Do you mean stuck apex seals? That can only happen after an engine sits for a long time without running or being turned over by hand. If a shop screwed up a vacuum line replacement job, do not take your car to them again.
Plugs do not have to be changed every time you deflood an engine. If it's really flooded badly, a plug can be pulled to help purge the excess fuel. Obviously put the plug back before trying to actually start the engine.
However, if the engine starts and sounds like it's running on one rotor, flooding isn't the issue. After a short bit, it would run fine. If there is a large vacuum leak, it can run really rough and sound like it's on one rotor. Vacuum diagrams are in the 2nd gen FSM, and since that's what was changed recently, I would start there.
Plugs do not have to be changed every time you deflood an engine. If it's really flooded badly, a plug can be pulled to help purge the excess fuel. Obviously put the plug back before trying to actually start the engine.
However, if the engine starts and sounds like it's running on one rotor, flooding isn't the issue. After a short bit, it would run fine. If there is a large vacuum leak, it can run really rough and sound like it's on one rotor. Vacuum diagrams are in the 2nd gen FSM, and since that's what was changed recently, I would start there.
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