Starting a FC TII that has been sitting. Need advice
12-04-16, 10:02 AM
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Starting a FC TII that has been sitting. Need advice
I recently bought a 1987 TII from a friend of a friend that has been sitting inside a shop for 6 years. The car has a somewhat fresh engine with a street port and 3mm apex seals, 3rd gen fuel pump, 1st gen secondary injectors, FMIC, Greddy exhaust, Greddy boost controller, Greddy BOV, T05 compressor wheel(?). The ecu has "Superchips OE PROM #079x53-0386" written in marker on it, so I assume it is modded or something? I cant find any info on it. The car ran fine, it was just parked when the owner went out of state for college in. Life happened and now he doesn't have time for or interest in the car, so I got it.
I changed all the fluids in it, new plugs, wires, fuel filter and fresh gas in it. Put a little bit of oil in the spark plug holes, cranked it by hand until it feels like it has good compression. Then cranked it without the fuel to make sure it has good oil pressure. When we tried to start it, it just cranked and cranked and got nothing. Cracked the banjo bolt on the top fuel rail, turned the key on and had no fuel pressure. After looking everything over, I found a switch wired up under the steering column, flipped it, and now there is fuel pressure. Now the car will fire right up, but will die within a couple seconds if you let it run. If you hit the gas pedal once its started, it just bogs down but if you let off of it quick it will catch and keep running for another second or two.
I am unsure where to go from here. All the vacuum lines I can see have been replaced before storage, and all look new. The car sounds healthy when it fires up, but acts like its out of fuel.
Any advice on where to start? I have been searching and found a thread somewhere about how to test the Air flow sensor, and how it will shut off the fuel pump? I just can't find it again
I changed all the fluids in it, new plugs, wires, fuel filter and fresh gas in it. Put a little bit of oil in the spark plug holes, cranked it by hand until it feels like it has good compression. Then cranked it without the fuel to make sure it has good oil pressure. When we tried to start it, it just cranked and cranked and got nothing. Cracked the banjo bolt on the top fuel rail, turned the key on and had no fuel pressure. After looking everything over, I found a switch wired up under the steering column, flipped it, and now there is fuel pressure. Now the car will fire right up, but will die within a couple seconds if you let it run. If you hit the gas pedal once its started, it just bogs down but if you let off of it quick it will catch and keep running for another second or two.
I am unsure where to go from here. All the vacuum lines I can see have been replaced before storage, and all look new. The car sounds healthy when it fires up, but acts like its out of fuel.
Any advice on where to start? I have been searching and found a thread somewhere about how to test the Air flow sensor, and how it will shut off the fuel pump? I just can't find it again
12-04-16, 10:33 AM
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If it's been sitting for 6 years it is likely the whole fuel system is full of trash. Expect one or more failed injectors or injectors that will fail.
You'll find AFM checking procedures in the FSM.
The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.
But, if the connector is dirty or unplugged, you will see this exact symptom. Just pull the connector and then make sure it is clean and tight to start.
You'll find AFM checking procedures in the FSM.
The Factory Service Manuals for all years of RX-7 (and many other rotary cars) can be downloaded for free here: Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals . They contain all common service information and more, and are an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download. The Haynes is a good quick reference covering 99% of questions, while the FSMs show complete and detailed procedures.
But, if the connector is dirty or unplugged, you will see this exact symptom. Just pull the connector and then make sure it is clean and tight to start.
12-19-16, 01:00 PM
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Turns out the ghetto dryer vent looking intake tube from the air flow meter to the turbo was not sealed up, which I imagine was making it so it would draw in air from the tube and not through the meter, causing the fuel pump to not keep running? I used a long silicone 45* bend so I could seal everything up and now it fires right up and runs pretty smooth.
However, I am having issues with the starter. It just wants to click like the battery is dead, but sometimes it will engage and start the car. It was doing this from the start but I assumed it was just a bad starter, but I just replaced it and its still doing the same thing. Am I wrong in assuming that this could be caused by a bad ground?
However, I am having issues with the starter. It just wants to click like the battery is dead, but sometimes it will engage and start the car. It was doing this from the start but I assumed it was just a bad starter, but I just replaced it and its still doing the same thing. Am I wrong in assuming that this could be caused by a bad ground?
