starting 13b-rew that has been sitting for years?
starting 13b-rew that has been sitting for years?
So I bought a project car. It is a 92 jdm fd3s. The previous owner blew the engine 3 years ago. He pulled the engine and replaced it with a jdm series 6 13b-rew. I am not sure when the last time the engine ran would be but it is atleast 3 years of sitting. I am currently finishing the swap and going to non sequential twins.
What do I need to know to get the motor started without wrecking anything. From what I understand most people when parking a rotory turn the crank one a month to keep the seals from sticking. This hasn't happened with this engine. If I pour oil down the spark plug holes or maybe penetrating oil, something... is that a good idea? What should my first step be? Advice would be appreciated.
What do I need to know to get the motor started without wrecking anything. From what I understand most people when parking a rotory turn the crank one a month to keep the seals from sticking. This hasn't happened with this engine. If I pour oil down the spark plug holes or maybe penetrating oil, something... is that a good idea? What should my first step be? Advice would be appreciated.
Personally this is what I would do...
*Drain the gas and put in fresh along with some good fuel system cleaner. I like BG44K or (less expenesive) some Chevron Techron.
*Change the oil.
*Pull the leading plugs and shoot just a little 2-cycle or MMO into the hole before replacing.
*While the plugs are out visually check them for fouling. Clean as necessary. Do the same with the trailing plugs.
*Pull the EGI fuse.
*Charge up a good healthy battery and/or leave it on a charger and crank for 10 to 15 seconds at a time with a little rest in between until you see some oil pressure.
*Replace EGI and crank again...see what you get.
*If it starts, let it run/keep it running at least until it comes up to FULL operating temp. A good sign is when the fans kick on.
*If it doesn't start, I would do a compression check on both rotors. You want to see something around 100 psi and relatively even pulses per rotor face on both rotors. Check to confirm spark and make sure your getting fuel. Correct anything that doesn't check out, then repeat from "charge up a good healthy battery....."
*Before venturing onto the street I'd consider swapping out the brake fluid and make sure I had a solid pedal and clutch.
*Install new trailing and leading plugs.
*Wouldn't hurt to at least check all the other fluid levels...transmission; differential and coolant.
*After a couple of warm-up cycles or a few miles, I'd swap out the coolant for fresh. It's probably gone acidic after that many years and that's hard on soft seals and irons.
*I'd also strongly consider changing the fuel filter before I put too many miles on it. Especially if you don't know when it was done last.
*Drain the gas and put in fresh along with some good fuel system cleaner. I like BG44K or (less expenesive) some Chevron Techron.
*Change the oil.
*Pull the leading plugs and shoot just a little 2-cycle or MMO into the hole before replacing.
*While the plugs are out visually check them for fouling. Clean as necessary. Do the same with the trailing plugs.
*Pull the EGI fuse.
*Charge up a good healthy battery and/or leave it on a charger and crank for 10 to 15 seconds at a time with a little rest in between until you see some oil pressure.
*Replace EGI and crank again...see what you get.
*If it starts, let it run/keep it running at least until it comes up to FULL operating temp. A good sign is when the fans kick on.
*If it doesn't start, I would do a compression check on both rotors. You want to see something around 100 psi and relatively even pulses per rotor face on both rotors. Check to confirm spark and make sure your getting fuel. Correct anything that doesn't check out, then repeat from "charge up a good healthy battery....."
*Before venturing onto the street I'd consider swapping out the brake fluid and make sure I had a solid pedal and clutch.
*Install new trailing and leading plugs.
*Wouldn't hurt to at least check all the other fluid levels...transmission; differential and coolant.
*After a couple of warm-up cycles or a few miles, I'd swap out the coolant for fresh. It's probably gone acidic after that many years and that's hard on soft seals and irons.
*I'd also strongly consider changing the fuel filter before I put too many miles on it. Especially if you don't know when it was done last.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Michigan
I have a 1981 RX-7 GS that has been in storage for 27 years! Finally going to get it back in the road to give to my teenage son. I am the original owner. Will tow it back from Boston to my home in Michigan. These tips are great. Will cross my fingers and hope it starts up without exploding. The link to the "Removing an RX-7" is super!!!
^^^^^ agreed!! Great link misterstyx69 posted, very informative and everything in one spot.
So far I've dumped mmo down the intake and cranked by hand and then with the starter and I can hear compression so I am feeling good about it, I am in the process of redoing the rats nest and doing the non sequential twins mod to simplify things. The previous owner did an attempt at simplified sequential diagram but did a poor job on it. While I was in there I found a leak at the fuel rail so I cleaned things up and did the fuel pulsation dampener removal. Next will be finish putting the rail back in using new fuel lines and getting new gas and fuel filter in the car. It's minus 30-40 here right now though and I have a non heated garage lol so waiting til next week when it's around -10 to get some more done. The biggest thing for me has been to just dig deep into it and doing the research of what can go wrong and how to make things simple and bullet proof to keep from redoing things in the future. The car seems so complicated but after you get a proper understanding it really isn't intimidating at all.
So far I've dumped mmo down the intake and cranked by hand and then with the starter and I can hear compression so I am feeling good about it, I am in the process of redoing the rats nest and doing the non sequential twins mod to simplify things. The previous owner did an attempt at simplified sequential diagram but did a poor job on it. While I was in there I found a leak at the fuel rail so I cleaned things up and did the fuel pulsation dampener removal. Next will be finish putting the rail back in using new fuel lines and getting new gas and fuel filter in the car. It's minus 30-40 here right now though and I have a non heated garage lol so waiting til next week when it's around -10 to get some more done. The biggest thing for me has been to just dig deep into it and doing the research of what can go wrong and how to make things simple and bullet proof to keep from redoing things in the future. The car seems so complicated but after you get a proper understanding it really isn't intimidating at all.
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