i was looking up on here and found a guy (forgot his name) used alumaseal on his car when it was smoking and he didnt wanna rebuild it soo.... my car had some of the same symptoms so i got some and it worked.. but only for idling did it work now when i redline and the rpms come back down a puff of white smoke comes out but then its fine... sounds like coolant seals? i will rebuild in the future but as for right now is there a temp fix?

 

Block sealant is the temporary fix. And how that it's been used, when you rebuild the engine, you'll have the joy of having to remove all that gunk from inside.

 

Lol kk that's what I thought and ya it will be fun I guess... lol Ohh and how hard is it doing a rebuild your self??

 

Here's the whole process. Not a modern 13B, but the block is basically the same as any rotary:

Disassembly:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1MXfs_Srs4

Cleaning:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5A5q61bzRI

Rebuild:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijJeUk_GqiI

And if you want to do some porting, here's an example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1Gy5sVMK3o

 

Once again, Alumaseal is not a block sealant and has not been shown to build up any crud in the block the way bock sealant does.

If your issue is only happening when coming down from redline, you are probably seeing oil smoke rather than steam. Clouds of smoke when deccelerating is usually due to worn oil control rings (oil gets sucked past due to high vacuum after letting off). Lucas oil stabilizer can reduce these symptoms if they are annoying you. Just replace 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of stabilizer and you should see a significant reduction. I run a quart full time in all of my vehicles.




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Kk thanks can anybody give me like a ballpark estimate of how much it would be to have somebody do a rebuild

 

depends...if its just a regular rebuild itll probably be around 2500-3500 or so... if your rotors or housings are no good then definitely more...