Hi,
I have a FC turbo convertible with a blown engine. Last winter, i got me a new engine core and reinstalled everything since then.

The engine runs, but starts really hard every time the engine is cold. At first you turn the ignition and the starter revs the engine but nothing happens. After two or three tries, it stays on for some rotations after letting go of the starter. This "on-time" gets longer with every try, until the engine runs at idle-speed.
Even then, it will not rev up. If it press the accelrator, the engine stalls. If I let it idle 2 minutes, the engine runs fine. It revs up, gets boost pressure and resarts with warm engine just fine.

I started checking the sensor with the FSM, checked for proper grounding and leaks. Any idea what it can be?



Here's the engine running after warming up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCe85mE0xO4

 

After watching video it dawned on me, add some petrol to it sir...

 

I fill in some every time it runs very low. In the Video the fuel lamp is already on, but it's far from empty...

 

motor could be flooding and fouling out the spark plugs i learned a trick that if you fully depress the throttle while cranking no fuel is injected and can clean out the excess fuel sitting in the chamber

 

you are right. Holding down the throttle while cranking will tell the ECU to fuel cut. That way all the excessive fuel in the chamber can be pushed out.

-93FD3s500r

 

A cold start issue could be related to an unplugged or faulty thermo switch.

 

Where at the engine is this thermo switch?


Holding down the trottle doesn't help starting the engine. Unflooding with the EGI-fuse out doesn't help, too.

Spark-Plugs are new and working.

 

The thermo switch is on the waterpump housing for an N.A 13b, should be the same for a 13bt. When you deflooded the engine did you take out the leading (lower spark plugs) and EGI fuse or just the EGI fuse? Taking out just the fuse will work if the engine is barely flooded but for anything more you need to take out the bottom spark plugs.

 

It's now a lot better, after I fixed a problem with the temperature sensor in the water pump.

 

Hey, just curious if you are starting okay now and using
the accelerator pedal all the way down regularly? thanks
A good method to clean oil from ignition chamber is
to remove plugs and turn over motor for 30 seconds.
Clean and replace plugs then try cold start.
:-v

 

The engine starts fine withoutstepping on the accelrator.
It still has some problems while its cold. It starts fine, but the engine dies after a few secconds. But this can be prevented, if you rev it up a little. After a minute or so it's fine...

 

Sounds like thermowax issue. Should idle high and slowly come down when warmed up. Its on the back of the uim. Not to be confused with the aws which is another cold start device

 

Remove egi fuse with this procedure or it will make matters worse. Also you are not removing oil so much as adding oil to aid compression. But adding no additional fuel. Because the egi fuse is removed.

 

The aws, accelerated warm up system, different from the thermowax yes, are different, sounds like your having trouble with both. The aws controls your precat warmup, where as your idle at startup should shoot to around 3k rpm and stay there for a few seconds. Then your thermowax is for your 1500rpm warmup idle which would go back and idle normally after your car is at operating temp. Im also having the same problem as yourself but mine doesn't seem to sound as bad as yours. Ive readjusted my base idle and tps numerous times with alittle better response but to not completly fixed. If you come up with a fix, let me know what you did. I believe im just gonna get in there once the weather warms up and take it all apart and clean it up, but then itll be warmer and not needed so much, lol. But it is what it is I guess.